I HAVE BEEN USING THE ETS125 SANDER AND FOR SOME REASON I AM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE SAND PAPER NOT STAYING ON . IHAVE REPLACED THE PAD TWO TIMES NOW IN A SHORT PERIPOD OF TIME IT IS GETTING EXPENSIVE . DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHY THIS IS HAPPENING ? IM NOT BEARING DOWN ON IT NOR SANING WITHOUT SAND PAPER . IM LETTING THE SANDER DO THE WORK.
ETS 125 SANDING PAD PROBLEM
- Thread starter Trimwood
- Start date
Sorry about your situation. In order for others to give you some thoughts would you mind telling us about what pad you are using and what sandpaper?
When you respond would you please turn off your CAP LOCK function.
Tons of us standing by to help.
Peter
When you respond would you please turn off your CAP LOCK function.
Tons of us standing by to help.
Peter
Cheese
Member
As [member=1674]Peter Halle[/member] suggested, what pad, what sandpaper, what grit and what material are you sanding?
Are you using dust extraction/vacuum?
Make sure to adjust just enough to collect the dust, too much suction increases pressure on the pad.
All things being equal, down pressure and heat (one can cause the other) are the only things I know of that kills Velcro pads.
(well.....snaging a nail/screw point is not much good on them either
)
Make sure to adjust just enough to collect the dust, too much suction increases pressure on the pad.
All things being equal, down pressure and heat (one can cause the other) are the only things I know of that kills Velcro pads.
(well.....snaging a nail/screw point is not much good on them either
)
Cheese
Member
Trimwood said:
I'm not familar with the media pad?
As far as I know, Festool only makes a hard pad, a soft pad and an interface pad for the 125.
Vondawg
Member
I have to think right off the top....without the dust extraction...that the bag isn't cutting it. Meaning it could be blocked/full/clogged ?? I've used without a vac with no issues but nothing beats the suction.
Cheese
Member
[member=19347]Trimwood[/member]
Maybe it's the combination of using a soft pad with a fairly aggressive grit and then using the dust bag.
Here's what I'm thinking, maybe the soft pad with the 80 grit produces a lot of internal pad flex, which produces more heat in the pad and then when using the dust bag, there isn't enough airflow to keep the pad cool.
Try switching to a hard pad and see if that helps, otherwise hook up dust collection to the soft pad combination and see if that helps.
Heat is the one thing that I know for sure, kills hook & loop.
Maybe it's the combination of using a soft pad with a fairly aggressive grit and then using the dust bag.
Here's what I'm thinking, maybe the soft pad with the 80 grit produces a lot of internal pad flex, which produces more heat in the pad and then when using the dust bag, there isn't enough airflow to keep the pad cool.
Try switching to a hard pad and see if that helps, otherwise hook up dust collection to the soft pad combination and see if that helps.
Heat is the one thing that I know for sure, kills hook & loop.
Brice Burrell
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- Mar 13, 2007
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- 7,385
Unfortunately there is no hard pad for the ETS125.
Cheese said:
Brice Burrell
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So far I think we've been looking for the root cause in the wrong place. I can't help but feel the OP can find the cause in the nearest bathroom, by standing in front of the sink. The problem will likely be staring right back at him.
Okay, I'm having some fun here and I intend no offense to the OP. The problem is in all probability excess heat melting the hooks on the pad. I've used the bag on my ETS 125 a fair bit and I've not had this problem. Trimwood, you need to be perfectly honest with yourself here, if you are pushing or tipping the sander up on its edge to be more aggressive you are causing the problem. If you are truly letting the sander do the work then please ignore this post.
Okay, I'm having some fun here and I intend no offense to the OP. The problem is in all probability excess heat melting the hooks on the pad. I've used the bag on my ETS 125 a fair bit and I've not had this problem. Trimwood, you need to be perfectly honest with yourself here, if you are pushing or tipping the sander up on its edge to be more aggressive you are causing the problem. If you are truly letting the sander do the work then please ignore this post.
Stephen B
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Just thinking outside the square!
Having read this thread over the past few days, I am wondering if not Trimwood is using a soft interface pad?
SOFT being the key word.
http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/492271
These are designed for fine grits on contoured surfaces and with extraction. They do deteriate quickly if preasure is used, and being soft foam could easily crumble in a way described.
[member=19347]Trimwood[/member]
Having read this thread over the past few days, I am wondering if not Trimwood is using a soft interface pad?
SOFT being the key word.
http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/492271
These are designed for fine grits on contoured surfaces and with extraction. They do deteriate quickly if preasure is used, and being soft foam could easily crumble in a way described.
[member=19347]Trimwood[/member]
No I am not using the interface pad > But will consider using a hard pad . Is there any videos on what type the pads should be used for different surfaces ?
I figured sanding on a flat surface > applying no extra pressure would be just fine for what I usually sand . Its not all the time using an 80 grit granat paper also using 120 too
I figured sanding on a flat surface > applying no extra pressure would be just fine for what I usually sand . Its not all the time using an 80 grit granat paper also using 120 too
Cheese
Member
Trimwood said:
[member=19347]Trimwood[/member]
Well as [member=1146]Brice Burrell[/member] pointed out, Festool doesn't offer a "hard pad" for the ETS 125. That was my misnomer and I apologize for it, although we still don't know what nomenclature Festool uses for their various sanding pads and that is an issue.
However, they do offer a Long Life Pad, 492 280 and a Super-Soft Pad 492 282. I'm assuming you're using the 492 282 pad. I would try using the 492 280 pad instead of the 492 282 pad and see how that works out.
In my mind I would equate a Long Life Pad to being the equivalent of a hard pad...but that's just me...
Side note...Wow, isn't using all of these part numbers instead of using common product descriptions a lot easier?
It's Engineering 101, common labels, common titles, makes the world-go-round and it can then become a common language. [poke] Festool...
I believe that the long life pad has a different hook composition to hold up better under extended sessions of sanding where the pad might heat up. The dust extractor air flow does help to cool the pad so whereas in this case the sander is being used without a dust extractor it might be a good idea to try.
Peter
Peter
leakyroof
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- 2,523
Ditto, since none of us are there with the OP to see what's going on, we're kinda stabbing at the problem. As a side note to the OP, I killed the regular pad on my Rotex 150 in less than one day with very aggresive sanding on a floor. I switched to the Blue/Hard Pad and didn't have a problem after that. I was using a Festool vac with the sander as well, but there was too much heat build-up for the pad to handle with 36 or 40 grit abrasives sanding the Oak Flooring.Peter Halle said:
So using my failure as a guide, add a vacuum to your sanding to see how it helps since not having any vacuum for dust extraction and air movement through the pad is going to create more heat build up as others have posted for you.
I am having a problem with my ETS 125 as well, and figured I'd ask here instead of starting a new thread. I am finishing a project made with soft maple. I am using the stock pad, with my CT22 turned down almost to the min suction. I started with 120, and moved up to 150 before staining, all using granat paper. I am finding that I am leaving lots of swirl marks. I am moving no faster than 1 inch per second as I've been reading, but still having problems..... Any suggestions?
I am staining the piece black to the swirl marks are very noticeable!
Thanks,
Steve
I am staining the piece black to the swirl marks are very noticeable!
Thanks,
Steve
wilde737 said:
A couple of suggestions:
1. Make sure that you brush or vacuum the workpiece when you change grits, and
2. How fast to move the sander will depend on the species. You might want to continue with the 180 and see what happens. I assume that you noticed the swirls prior to staining (I use alcohol to test for swirls.
Peter
