Euro Cabinets 101-2 A Beginner's Guide

Thanks for the tip about FastEdge.  I just picked up some white PVC FastEdge for my laundry white melamine cabinets.  Very quick and easy.  Have you tried the Fastcap trimmer.  I bought one with the edging it works like a dream.  One quick pass and both sides are trimmed flush.  Rub over the edge quickly with a fine file to break the edge and its done to perfection.

Fred
 
  Thanks Fred, That's just what I was hoping to hear. The Fastedge trimmer sounds like a much better way to trim this product. I should have got one when I got the wood tape. But for some reason I thought the trim router would be fine. And while I am getting very good results, That type of trimmer sounds much better. So I will add that one to my tool list, including their roller, and will have them soon. Thanks for sharing your results with the Fastedge. 
 
I had one of those trimmers in the past, but stopped using it eventually. I really just prefer a very sharp chisel. Works just as easy and the results are just as good if not better (the trimmer would sometimes leave tear-out).
 
Lou,

I haven't tried the Fastcap trimmer on wood edging yet, but so far every trim has been perfect on the white PVC edging on the melamine cabinets.  It only takes a couple seconds for me to trim an edge.  I've never used any method that works as well as this, but (standard disclaimer here :-)) YMMV.

Fred
 
  Please note an Error was made  >:( back in the opening post as to hinge Type and Numbers. I had stated that we want Free Swing - this is incorrect. We want Self Close or SC 71T5590. The free swing hinges are not "spring loaded" and will not pull themselves closed with the Blumotion Soft Close Plunger.  The hinge shown is in fact a Self Close 120 Inserta. But the number on it says 70T5590 ? .
     The important issue is the Self Close aspect. This hinge will want to snap closed at the point that's just before fully closed. And the Soft Close Plunger has a resistance to it that slows down the slamming effect. When ordering be sure to select the Self Close type if you will be using the Blumotion Soft Close Plunger.
   My apologies for the bad info. I have made a correction to the post.   
 
bruegf said:
Dave,

Make sure you are logged in.   Pics don't appear when you're not logged in.

Fred

Correct, Fred.  I did log in.  I might add that pics were showing up better last night.  Maybe it's due to my Dell Inspiron and the whims of MS Vista OS!

Dave R.
 
Dave,

Vista!?!  Oh noooooooo, Dave.  :o  (We will now have a moment of silence for Dave.)  May he rest in peace!  :'(

Perhaps it's not too late to ask for a copy of XP.  Much better OS, IMO.

Dan.
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Correct, Fred.  I did log in.  I might add that pics were showing up better last night.  Maybe it's due to my Dell Inspiron and the whims of MS Vista OS!

Dave,
Following the Vista story feels eerily like "Invasion of the Body Snatchers," as one by one great people get swallowed up and their identity zombied out.

Seriously though, if this occurred right when you switched computers I'd bet that's the problem.  Do you have another PC, perhaps in another location, where you could test whether photos show up?

Matthew
 
  Intermission will soon end.

while the sound of Mozart's Symphony No 40 in G minor can be heard
 
Case Assembly and hardware.
   Well now that I  have all the parts ready I'll dry fit and measure for the 1/4" back. I left about a 1/16" play. The back was cut and dry fit again. These parts have been primed and the insides have a finish coat on them. The case was assembled with glue and 1 1/4" washer head  Kreg screws. Pipe clamps were also used. And the usual "scramble" while getting it all square and set before the glue set.

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  1/2" x 3 1/2" nailing rails were glued and pocket holed into the back top and bottom. Using Kreg SPS C1 1" pan head coarse screws. After searching for suitable 1/2" scraps I had to get these from a fresh sheet using the 3000/2 and TS 55 EQ Then cross cut on the MFT.

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Here I have a Cleat with a 45 deg bevel on it. It is on top with the back side all glued up and ready for placement. Dominos just because I could. They are all at the middle wide setting Glue dripping ready to go. Brad nails were also used. Think it will hold ?  ;D
The shameless overkill and and use of the domino on these two boxes for the cleat is because these are bound for my Sister and BIL"s home, where they "might" be housing reams of paper. Hence the over built cleat attachment, and finish work.  ;)
  My shop cabinets have no finish at all, and the cleats were mounted without the dominos.
 

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From the inside with the cleat temporarily clamped some Kreg 1 1/2" SML C150 washer head coarse screws were piloted and screwed through the back and nailer into the cleat. These Cabinets will be hanging on a concrete block basement wall. A mating cleat will be attached to the wall. 

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A bumper strip was glued and brad nailed near the bottom to keep the cab level against the wall. The full load is on top cleat.

 
Dan Clark said:
Dave,

Vista!?!   Oh noooooooo, Dave.  :o   (We will now have a moment of silence for Dave.)  May he rest in peace!   :'(

Perhaps it's not too late to ask for a copy of XP.  Much better OS, IMO.

Dan.

Thanks, Dan, you know all too well of my PC problems, which led to purchase my new Dell Inspiron which was offered only with Vista.  But ... Matthew may have provided some solutions to try.  All the photos are showing up perfectly at this moment.

Dave R.

Dave R.
 
  With the case woodworking complete we'll get to the hardware and doors.

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We"ll install the Blum # 173H710 cam adjustable hinge mounting plates. An easy process, small arrows point outward towards the door. The plastic dowels fit perfectly in the 5mm holes and while tightening the screws they expand while gripping the fixture down flat.

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Using the Blumotion locating and drilling jig is a rush.  :)  We need to drill a 10mm (25/64) hole 2" deep into the edge of the ply. This helps keep the bit straight. Steady and light pressure. Have the bondo ready.  ;D  No it's not that bad.

Locating the piston / plunger Update Detailed information on locating the plunger 970A can be found on the Blumotion for doors brochure. (3.26mb file)http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/1077_bmn4d_b/1077_bmn4d_b.pdf  Page 16 and 17.

There are many other soft close choices including the snap onto the standard hinge type such as the 973A. No drilling or special tools required.
There is a Blumotion option for just about any application.  Pick the model and check the specs to match with hardware.

The installed location shown is off by about an inch. The correct location per Blum specs, using the combination of 0mm mounting plates and overlay doors should be 32mm from the inside corner of the cabinet,  in the same general location but a little furher away from hinge.

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Then we'll tap the Soft Close plunger down into place. We have one per door, upper hinge side - right and left on the front edge of the top panel.

That completes the case and now onto the doors.

   Plenty of options here. I will use a stile and rail set by Festool. I get my door dimensions by the using the actual outside case measurements. And since I will have a double door I'll split it in half and I'll make my doors so as to have no gap and no reveal. We're using Full Overlay hinges. After door completion I will create a door gap by trimming the mating edge of each door a bit, 1/32" or so each. And if I wanted a little reveal I will still make the door full size at this time. 
   Here is the Festool set that I used #491129 stile bit and #491130 rail bit.

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The stock was machined on a Jessem router table. A slow speed was used and plowed out the profile in one big gulp. (soft pine) With a second pass to clean up. One minor issue or comment on the set: the center gap is less than 1/4" by enough that for my application I had to widen the gaps of all the parts a bit to receive the 1/4" panel that I used in the center of the doors. Some very minor sanding before assembly to clean up fuzz. The profile is smooth and pleasing to the eye. Nice looking set. The stile and rail stock was 3/4" clear pine and sized at 2 1/4"
  If using slab doors I would tape only the hinge side of each door and leave the other three edges of each door unfinished until fitting is complete.

When the doors are ready we will drill the three hole hinge cup pattern in the back side of each door, and then fit them.
 
Overtime said:
Here I have a Cleat with a 45 deg bevel on it. It is on top with the back side all glued up and ready for placement. Dominos just because I could. They are all at the middle wide setting Glue dripping ready to go. Brad nails were also used. Think it will hold ?  ;D

For this application, it would maybe have been a bit sturdier if you had hewn the cabinet from a lightning-struck oak, then bronzed it.

I love your work, thanks for this thread+pix
 
Or a CNC machine starting with a 13" thick slab  ;D

Dave, I hope you are getting to see the pics OK. They are coming directly from Photobucket not the gallery, as I have not yet figured out how to ref the link and view with a preview as I attempt to edit  ::).
 
Overtime said:
Or a CNC machine starting with a 12" thick slab  ;D

Dave, I hope you are getting to see the pics OK. They are coming directly from Photobucket not the gallery, as I have not yet figured out how to ref the link and view with a preview as I attempt to edit  ::).

Overtime,  the photos were coming through excellently last night on my home PC.  Thanks for your excellent, detailed description.  Soon I will have no more excuses and will have to make some hanging cabinets for my garage/shop.  And getting rid of some ugly old storage racks will make my wife very happy.

Dave R.
 
An outstanding thread. Nice work telling the step-by-step. I know well how difficult that is. Keep em coming. We will never have to much of that.
 
  The doors are ready  :)

My two doors have been built and assembled full size, together side by side they are the same size as the box outer dimensions.

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Two straight edge boards were clamped to the assembly table to form a quick squaring jig.

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The most important size here is the hight of our doors at 800 mm, same as the case sides. We will mark a line at 96 mm from the bottom and top of each door. If you are using slab or flat doors have your edge tape on only this edge at this point.

   Whatever method you use to drill the three hole hinge cup pattern the 96 mm mark will always put the hinge cup assembly holes dead center in line with the 5 mm (system holes) that were drilled on the side panels at 32 mm Center to Centers.

    Another key measurement is the set back of the hinge cup hole. Where do we start ? How far from the edge of the door will the beginning of the hole be ? Refer to your hinge specs.

   The distance we use here (5 mm) will put the door edge (when closed) flush with the cabinet side with no reveal or over hang. From this point I can adjust the reveal using the adjustment screws on the hinge itself.

   
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The small orange things on the Ecodrill are adjustable tab blocks that are used to change the set back, in - out from the edge of the door. I"m using the 5mm setting.

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Now we can begin to adjust and size the door just remember not to mess with the hinge cup edge of the doors.

 
We'll put the hinges on and start the finish trimming. Wow they fit and line up  :o

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Adjust the doors so they are flush with the side of the case as a starting point. Now you will see that you will need to create the gap for the two doors to operate properly.

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I shaved an equal tad off the mating edges of each door (Remember not to change the hinge cup edge) and then edge sanded.

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Then I just shaved the tops and bottoms using the stop on the MFT. Here you can create more of a reveal if so desired. Those using slab doors can complete the edge banding process after fitting the doors.

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With some quick and easy adjustments you will be able to fine tune the door gap and all around fit with amazing accuracy.

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The gap can be closed to a razor thin parallel line or widened to suit your taste.

Closing comments to follow.

 
This has been great, Patrick. I can't wait for the post where you say' "Come back tomorrow and we'll do drawers!!"
 
Patrick,
Nice job. Have you always used the Blum Ecodrill?  I have the 1400 router, but no guide rail with holes.  I have been debating on getting the LR 32-Set or the LR 32-SYS. I have other blum products and like them a lot. Do you know how  the 35mm bit works with the LR 32-SYS. I've heard that some people have problems with it burning using the router. Any thoughts or recommendations on which system to lean toward would be helpful.
Thanks, Mike
 
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