FastCap FASTenon

rmhinden

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I got this in my email this morning, a new kind of domino:

FASTenon

From the web site:

"allows you to pull your joints together without clamps. The barbs bite into your material; holding your workpiece firmly together. Add a little glue inside each joint and it’s even stronger. Also great for aligning components when assembling. The FASTenon will change the way you build."

View attachment 1

Looks interesting, might be useful when clamping is challenging.

Your thoughts?

Bob
 

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It's an overstatement by FastCap. It does not pull the joint together. Holds it in place, yes. Pulls it like Festool or Lamello connectors, no.
 
Is it really glueable as stated? Suitable for light-duty joints not subject to much stress.
 
I have a need to attach painted face frames to painted cabinets in place soon and I was looking at these. However, I think I agree with [member=15585]Svar[/member] I don't think these could close the joint enough like the Lamello Tenso.
 
"It will change the way you build".

Possibly.  It definitely looks like you can't dry-fit your assembly using those barbed tenons, so that would be a pretty big change in the build method...
 
squall_line said:
"It will change the way you build".

Possibly.  It definitely looks like you can't dry-fit your assembly using those barbed tenons, so that would be a pretty big change in the build method...

Dry fit with regular dominos. But you won't know if they're going to work until you go through with using them.
 
I would not use them for serious woodwork even if they were free. They may well have uses but not in my workshop.

Peter
 
These could be use for applications that don't require serious clamping or difficult to hold while glue dries. Perhaps trim/molding work, etc.
 
I think only 6x40 avaible, thought as you did PVC decking or trim(miters with epoxy) . guy
 
Svar said:
It's an overstatement by FastCap. It does not pull the joint together. Holds it in place, yes. Pulls it like Festool or Lamello connectors, no.

Indeed it is...maybe if you're lucky, it's the equivalent of placing a strip of blue painters tape across 2 boards.

Hey Matt [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] ...I attached maple face frames with the small D8/50 Festool connectors, they work well. Here's one holding up the vertical and another one being prepared to hold up the horizontal.

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Some of you might be misunderstanding who Fastcap's customers are.  The company is named after the little stickers used to cover up screw heads....

For people doing assembly on-site, with modest tolerance requirements, these things really could be a huge help.
 
Thanks for that [member=44099]Cheese[/member] . I may end up having to go that route. My problem is I don't want to spend the money on those Domino connectors after seeing how much of a fuss they are. A Zeta P2 is in my future (unknown when, could be a year, could be more). I wonder how much investment I'd need to get the drill guide and the connectors I'd need without buying the whole kit.
 
DynaGlide said:
Thanks for that [member=44099]Cheese[/member] . I may end up having to go that route. My problem is I don't want to spend the money on those Domino connectors after seeing how much of a fuss they are. A Zeta P2 is in my future (unknown when, could be a year, could be more). I wonder how much investment I'd need to get the drill guide and the connectors I'd need without buying the whole kit.

I think you can get by for $250 or so. I bought the complete kit but I needed it for some other projects.

If I remember correctly, fixture & drill for about $140 and 25-30 connectors for $70-$80?

I like them a lot and they really exert a lot of pull on the face frame to flush up items nicely.
 
You may also be able to talk someone out of a used kit that's already been half-used for a reasonable price.  I got a used kit that was about 3/4 complete from eBay, I just made sure that the drill guide, drill bit, and a reasonable amount of connectors were still included.  It looked like the bit and guide were completely unused.
 
squall_line said:
You may also be able to talk someone out of a used kit that's already been half-used for a reasonable price.  I got a used kit that was about 3/4 complete from eBay, I just made sure that the drill guide, drill bit, and a reasonable amount of connectors were still included.  It looked like the bit and guide were completely unused.

I just checked and it's ~$259 to get the drill bit, drill guide, cover caps, and 50x corner connectors. The set probably makes more sense going the route you suggested.
 
The new Fastcap connectors have an obvious application for exterior use rather than Sipo.

I am looking for connectors for a raised plant bed made from 2 x 6's. Do the festool connectors have outside applications? I have both the 500 and 700XL

For the 700XL, the connectors do not need a template. So I think all you need are the connectors.

If the Festool connectors cannot be used outside and I want to break down my beds in the winter, what would you recommend?
 
I'd consider using bed bolt hardware, with a domino or two at each joint for alignment.  Glue the dominos in on just one side. 

 
At 32¢ each they are pricey.  6mm Dominos are about 9¢. 

And if I was stupid enough to just order a 100 pack alone my shipping would be $26.42 making the cost of each a little over 58¢.

If I ever need $68 or more worth of stuff from FastCap I'll probably throw in a pack of these.

 
DynaGlide said:
Thanks for that [member=44099]Cheese[/member] . I may end up having to go that route. My problem is I don't want to spend the money on those Domino connectors after seeing how much of a fuss they are. A Zeta P2 is in my future (unknown when, could be a year, could be more). I wonder how much investment I'd need to get the drill guide and the connectors I'd need without buying the whole kit.

Do you guys realize that Lamello did put a bit more thought into this than most people think? You can actually use the Tenso (and Clamex for that matter) with a regular biscuit joiner. It won't work as intended, meaning the rotate into place way. The connectors have screw holes in the ends. You can cut the slots with a regular machine by doing the plunge cut twice, at 2 different heights, making the slot wide enough for the fitting to slip in like a normal biscuit. Then put a screw in both ends, maybe a little glue is not a bad idea either?
It is definitely not ideal, but for a seldom used situation? It can save a guy a lot of money.
I do know this works though, because a guy I work with mis-cut a few slots on some parts that were to close to complete and up against a time line. So he over-cut them and screwed them in place with some Melamine glue. It worked out fine.

The plastic Dominos might be ok for some very specific situations, but the cost isn't ideal?
Maybe out doors? or in a non-wood situation like solid surface?
I have used my DF500 to cut through some solid surface a few times. It was just through the face as a locating pin for some vertical members, but it worked. Some day, when the acrylic shows up, it will fit in the groove and screw into the plywood sub-top, then get installed.
 

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I must have missed this thread. I bought a pack of these recently and tested them yesterday.

At present they cost twice as much as Festool 6mm beech Dominos.

As noted above they do not draw parts together but they do have more withdrawal resistance than the standard beech tenons. I estimate they resist withdrawal about 1-1/2 to 4 times as much as the wood tenons. This depends on the species and grain direction of the stock. Soft wood will let the plastic barbs dig in some while hardwood won’t. Plywood gripped best.

Taking test assemblies apart was easier if the parts were levered rather than pulled directly apart because the plastic barbs can compress. That ability to compress also allows a little realignment of the joined parts. Remember, for these things to be any benefit at all every mortise has to be made at the tight setting. That realignment ability diminishes with every additional tenon.

Standard pva woodworking glue does not stick to the plastic. There are grooves that might increase withdrawal resistance in very stiff wood but the small dimension relatively soft wood I was testing seemed to simply flex enough to allow the tenon to escape. Withdrawal was only a little more difficult than without glue. In fact, once the tenon started moving it became easy to remove.

I bought these things as a possible alternative to Lamello Tenso fasteners for installing face frames. The FASTenons are obviously inferior but cost about 1/3 as much as the Tenso’s without the pre-load clips.

Since FASTenons are 38mm long I have to use the 15mm depth setting on the DF 500 for the 19mm  frame stock and 25mm for the carcass. Driving the tenon into the carcass first leaves only 13mm to engage with the frame. Given the spacing of the plastic barb’s loosing 2mm doesn’t make any difference. They hold well enough for a pliable frame that doesn’t need much persuasion to fit. Tightening the fit with a hammer blow closes the gap but the vibration could loosen other tenons along the frame, so I’ll probably stick with the Tenso’s.

An alternative to the FASTenon is the Lamello Bisco P-14, if you can conveniently make the right cut.

Scratch that. The Bisco is only good for surface registration. It’s withdrawal resistance is weak and even more affected by grain direction. One Bisco costs about four times as much as a 6mm Domino. And almost twice as much as a FASTenon.

If you Don have a Zeto the Tenso can’t be used so in that case the FASTenon could be helpful.
 
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