Fastcap track rack installation

[Ptk16]

I am curious how people are installing these specifically on steel insulated doors. I have 10 foot wide doors, and the manufacturer says there are only ribs at the ends and middle, making most of my door unusable if I need to screw directly to the ribs. I am curious if anyone has screwed just to the metal skin and if it felt secure.

The only other thing I can think to do is to add some 1/4" material the full width of the door in order to hit all 3 ribs.

[attachimg=1]

 

[jonnyrocket]

I would suggest finding a picture of your same door, but the non-insulated version. You may see areas where the door panels have sufficient steel on the inside to mount either a vertical plywood strip that could then hold the track mounts.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I wouldn't trust putting screws into the skin, which is appropriately named. I'm thinking that a strip of 1/4" ply or even MDF would be a better choice.  Depending on the length of the tracks you intend to store there, you might only need to go from one side to the middle (or slightly past). Otherwise you would need to have two pieces meet in the middle, for a 10 foot door.

 

[Mark Katz]

Contrary to previous replies, I would not worry about screwing into the metal skin without any backing behind. I did just that and the tracks are very secure and the Fastcap fixtures don't move at all. Use sheet metal self-tapping screws with threads that go up to the heads and don't extend more than about 1/2" into the door. Mark and drill a tiny hole (1/16") through the skin for the screw to grab.

The guide rails aren't that heavy and exert only shear stress when the door is closed. As long as you don't try to rip the rails off the door, you should be fine.

My door is a 7' wide Garaga R16 insulated door. I wish I had a 10' door so I could mount my FS 2700 on it.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That pic really bugs my OCD. I don't like the idea of the rails sitting on the splinter guard, but I couldn't have the logos upside-down either.
Storing mine vertically has solved that problem, for now, but when I retire and bring them home?
I don't have the space to store them vertically in my shop. Well, I do, but it would be in un-heated space. 

 

[Mark Katz]

That pic really bugs my OCD. I don't like the idea of the rails sitting on the splinter guard, but I couldn't have the logos upside-down either.

Actually, there isn't too much downward force on the splinter guard since the clamps hold the rail securely against the door. I haven't seen any damage to the edge.

But if you need another OCD trigger, you could focus on the kickback damage on the 1080 rail. Should I dispose of that rail and buy a new one? Or cut off the damaged portion? I think I'll just live with it.

 

[rmwarren]

Any reason you can't use pop rivets rather than screws?

RMW

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Tha "somewhat" falls into the category of "wear and tear". To me it would be disappointing, but not an OCD thing. I like things to be perfect, but the wear of normal use is not bothersome.
Some things just strike me as wrong, but wouldn't bother a lot of people. It's pretty relative though. I notice them, but don't lose sleep over it or anything. I joke about OCD, it's not that bad.

 

[Azheim]

Contrary to previous replies, I would not worry about screwing into the metal skin without any backing behind. I did just that and the tracks are very secure and the Fastcap fixtures don't move at all. Use sheet metal self-tapping screws with threads that go up to the heads and don't extend more than about 1/2" into the door. Mark and drill a tiny hole (1/16") through the skin for the screw to grab.

The guide rails aren't that heavy and exert only shear stress when the door is closed. As long as you don't try to rip the rails off the door, you should be fine.

My door is a 7' wide Garaga R16 insulated door. I wish I had a 10' door so I could mount my FS 2700 on it.

[attachimg=1]

Hi Mark, sorry to bump this 2 year old thread, but you are the only person I’ve found on the internet who has posted photos of the track rack attacked to an insulated garage door. Just wondering how your installation has held up over the years. Would you do anything differently?

I have a similar 10’ insulated garage door, and am looking to add the track rack to it for holding my FS 2700 and 1400.

 

[C8H10N4O2]

Hi Mark, sorry to bump this 2 year old thread, but you are the only person I’ve found on the internet who has posted photos of the track rack attacked to an insulated garage door. Just wondering how your installation has held up over the years. Would you do anything differently?

I have a similar 10’ insulated garage door, and am looking to add the track rack to it for holding my FS 2700 and 1400.

I've installed 3 sets of track racks to my garage door (steel skinned insulated) so far with the method above without any issues just using the included self tapping screws (32" & 2x 55").

Screws alone has been sturdy enough for the track clamps as it is - just make sure you don't strip the holes when installing. If you're concerned you can put some double sided tape on the backs of the track racks before screwing into the door. I'm just using screws alone, but it has held up so far (probably close to 2 years at this point).

I would recommend installing the track racks upside down - this way they tracks aren't sitting on the sacrificial rubber edge guide when the door is closed. This just ensures that there are no deformities added over time. Installing upside down doesn't matter since the green knobs hold the track in place and still holds it securely.

If I ever get around to getting a 2700mm or 3000mm track I'll mount it on the garage door too, but will most likely install with 2 sets of the track racks evenly spaced to prevent the track from sagging.

Also, using a laser level helps in making sure everything is lined up during the installation - but a long enough spirit level works just fine too.

 

[Azheim]

Thank you C8H for sharing your experience. I think I’ll use the included self tapping screws along with some construction adhesive for added hold.

 

[dicktill]

Hi Mark, sorry to bump this 2 year old thread, but you are the only person I’ve found on the internet who has posted photos of the track rack attacked to an insulated garage door. Just wondering how your installation has held up over the years. Would you do anything differently?

I have a similar 10’ insulated garage door, and am looking to add the track rack to it for holding my FS 2700 and 1400.

I also have my rails fastened to my insulated garage door (18'). Only using 2 FastCap brackets on each rail, even my long 3000, just using sheet metal screws into the door skin.

 

[smorgasbord]

FWIW, I bought these some time ago when I thought I was going to buy a Festool track saw and track but spent the money on something else. They hold the track anti-splinter side up:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1078007684/track-saw-guide-rail-holders-for

Don't know how well they work. May try them out now that I actually have some tracks to store...

 

[Cheese]

1. I would recommend installing the track racks upside down - this way they tracks aren't sitting on the sacrificial rubber edge guide when the door is closed. This just ensures that there are no deformities added over time. Installing upside down doesn't matter since the green knobs hold the track in place and still holds it securely.

2. If I ever get around to getting a 2700mm or 3000mm track I'll mount it on the garage door too, but will most likely install with 2 sets of the track racks evenly spaced to prevent the track from sagging.

3. Also, using a laser level helps in making sure everything is lined up during the installation

These are 3-dinner winners as far as I'm concerned.