Festool Precisio saws

Quick update to the thread and in relation to the original query that started it all; I have just pushed the button and ordered a CS70.

I went with a 240v version as it was only £200 more and I won't need to lug the TX around if I went the 110V route. I haven't gone for the SET version as I don't have use for for the slider at present and will buy it on the future if need be. Admittedly, I'll probably go for the extensions table/s at some point but I'm going to work with the basic saw and see what I want to add on. It already felt wrong spending north of £1.6k ($2.2k) on a portable saw, spending around £2.5k ($3.2k) just felt even more wrong at this stage.

Thank you to everyone on here who took the time to respond, share experience, post pictures and answer mine and others queries, it is appreciated and I do listen.

Have to wait now for the DHL-Santa....
 
Hi [member=30708]shed9[/member]

Well done. I really hope that you tell us about the machine and your experiences with it - it will be a great help to me and others who hope to get one at some point.

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
Hi [member=30708]shed9[/member]

Well done. I really hope that you tell us about the machine and your experiences with it - it will be a great help to me and others who hope to get one at some point.

Peter
Click to expand...
Happy to field any questions Peter and I will certainly be feeding back my experience with it.
 
Slightly related question to the original thread - what size table is the TKS80? Festool's own UK site states 690x500 but nearly all of the dealers here state 850x720.

With that much difference of real estate in actual saw top at the same weight, it's enough to consider in view of the CS saw and influenced my initial decision. I never thought to question Festool's own specs to check them against the dealer when weighing up the two options but checking now, my dealer lists different specs. Where's the recourse in that situation?

Can anyone confirm the actual table dimensions of the TKS80. This seems incredibly unprofessional to have several misleading numbers out there for a pro saw.
https://www.festool.co.uk/products/sawing/table-saw/575784---tks-80-ebs-gb-240-v#TechnicalData

EDIT: I have just emailed Festool UK for a response to confirm the size of the TKS-80 comparative to the CS-70, if the dealers are correct then that's potentially a 77% increase in table top size at the same weight. Have to admit, I'm inclined to believe the specs on Festool's site but it needs checking.
 
The manual states 690 x 580 mm as the table size; I'd be inclined to believe this given I can see the rule to the right of the blade ends at 24 cm. I can't explain how all the dealers have the wrong information though; I would guess that dimension is perhaps the overall size rather than specifically the table?
 
GarryMartin said:
The manual states 690 x 580 mm as the table size; I'd be inclined to believe this given I can see the rule to the right of the blade ends at 24 cm. I can't explain how all the dealers have the wrong information though; I would guess that dimension is perhaps the overall size rather than specifically the table?
Click to expand...
Thanks for this, I tend to think you're right. I actually found two sets of different sizes from different dealers, both of which are different to Festool's stated specs. You'd think everyone would get this right for professional equipment at that end of the spectrum. The Festool info seems to be consistent.

EDIT: Festool just got back to me (just 38 minutes from my original email to a reply!!!). Very much instilled the confidence I had when I pushed the button on the CS and sorry for doubting you Festool, I shall go stand in the corner now.
 
Alex said:
Festool website is usually correct. Dealers mess up VERY often.
Click to expand...
Yeah it was just the fact that every dealer I looked at had table size dimensions over that of Festool's own figures. Can't say I've come across too many mismatches with details from dealers and Festool in the past, nothing as major as actual machine size anyhow.
 
Interesting thread, I believe we are in a unique position as a dealer in the UK currently as we can demo virtually every Festool Tool and can provide live working demos via- Whatsapp/zoom etc. if there's anything you want a demo of or to simply look at in close detail in these unusual times please DM me.

Gavin
 
The CS 70 has landed....

That is all.......

Thanks again everyone, and thanks to Festool for their as-always superb customer care.
 
Okay, my first dumb question. Trying to change the blade on the Precisio 70 and this thing won't budge. The carriage is in the mid position, blade is fully extended out at 45' and the blade side cover is off. I press the spindle lock, lock the blade and try to rotate the hex clockwise but this is not moving at all. Am I missing something here. am I missing a step? Don't want to force it anymore than needed but this is not moving. Watched the Festool video and read the instructions so head scratching at the moment and wanted to check if this is not uncommon and there is possibly a knack?

I suspect this unit has been sat on a shelf with the blade fitted for some time and it's unlikely to have been removed since fitted by Festool.
 
It is the same with mine, I never use the hex key, you just can not exert enough force with it. I use a big wrench. And always remember, the bolt has a reverse thread.

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Alex said:
It is the same with mine, I never use the hex key, you just can not exert enough force with it. I use a big wrench. And always remember, the bolt has a reverse thread.

[attachimg=1]
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Thanks for that, I guessed it was just a stuck bolt but it made sense to check.

I remembered the reverse bolt left hand thread thing but reminders are always welcome.
 
Alex said:
It is the same with mine, I never use the hex key, you just can not exert enough force with it. I use a big wrench. And always remember, the bolt has a reverse thread.

[attachimg=1]
Click to expand...

My experience is the same. Don’t know why it takes so much torque but it does.
 
Be carefull when using a big wrench on the arbornut, I also did this many times, but one time (I think 2 years ago now), instead of the arbornut coming loose, the magnesium housing that houses the pin for the spindle lock cracked. Having that repaired by festool costed me about 500€ if I recall correctly. (Would it be safer to use a hexbit in an impact driver (after tripple checking the rotation direction?)
 
Ups! That scares me a lot. I have thought it could happen every time I have to change the blade, but having a confirmation hurts! Maybe anti seizing fluid will help. On the other hand we may be changing the risk of breaking the saw by the risk of a blade flying out of the machine...
 
Same^
Interested to hear what others have done. My CS 50 had the arbor nut really tight. (And it should be able to be loosened by hand.. yeah, well no.) Haven’t tried again, but I was thinking of smearing a thin layer of oil to the flange which catches the blade. To do this is a bit scary, as I don’t want anything loosen other than by me. How about adding a thin layer of oil, let it sit for a while, and then clean all residue off with a cotton rag. Sort of impregnate it a bit.
 
No need to worry, Frank-Jan just doesn't know his own strength.

I don't change blades often, but I've been doing it like this for the last 8 or 9 years because there just was no other way.

Just be gentle, apply the force, but don't go all Hulk on it.

 
My CS70 is 15 years old now and I always use the onboard hex to loosen and fasten the arbornut.  I change my saws often, back and forth between the correct tooth-geometry.  And I have never had any problems.

Don't over tighten!  The reverse tread is there to tighten the nut when the machine is started.  Well not really tighten it, but you get the point.
Spin the nut and when you can't spin it free any further I think another 50-60° is all that's needed.  I never had it come undone.

That being said it's almost time to change the arbornut, the inner hex is starting to get worn.

The flange of mine is coated with some kind of rubber on the blade side, so I would stay away with any oil.

 
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