Festool Precisio saws

Alex said:
It is the same with mine, I never use the hex key, you just can not exert enough force with it. I use a big wrench. And always remember, the bolt has a reverse thread.

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Ooh, then the CS 70 is quite different from the CS 50, where there is only that ring you tighten by hand... and then becomes loose on it's own  [tongue]

 
Coen said:
Ooh, then the CS 70 is quite different from the CS 50, where there is only that ring you tighten by hand... and then becomes loose on it's own  [tongue]

It does that?

My 70 never has that problem, if anything, the spinning makes it tighten up more. I always tighten the nut gently, no overtightening. And when I come back a month later to change the blade, the nut is very tight.

Maybe Hans Mertens' 70 doesn't do it because he changes blades often.
 
Alex said:
Coen said:
Ooh, then the CS 70 is quite different from the CS 50, where there is only that ring you tighten by hand... and then becomes loose on it's own  [tongue]

It does that?

My 70 never has that problem, if anything, the spinning makes it tighten up more. I always tighten the nut gently, no overtightening. And when I come back a month later to change the blade, the nut is very tight.

Maybe Hans Mertens' 70 doesn't do it because he changes blades often.

I have had whobbly blade more than once. Maybe the quickstop loosens it?

But CS 50 and CS 70 seem to have it different.

I never had a loose blade in my TS 55 either for example.
 
I feel a little relieved here that it isn't just me.

Given the saw comes with a hex key and most people seem to find this insufficient including myself on a brand new saw, does Festool have an official response on how to remove the blade in this common situation with the CS saw, especially with the information that possible damage can occur? I'm apprehensive to apply significant pressure to a machine in which its very name is one letter short of the word precision.

 
If you people have a good way of mounting a blade without using a threaded connector, I am sure the Festool engineers would like to hear it.

But as it is, making a threaded connector like a bolt spin very fast, at 4000 RPM, will have an effect on it. Depending on the direction of the rotation, it will loosen or get tighter, there is no way around it. 

It is a bolt, as you can see, six sided. Any wrench can grab it, as intended.

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Alex said:
If you people have a good way of mounting a blade without using a threaded connector, I am sure the Festool engineers would like to hear it.

But as it is, making a threaded connector like a bolt spin very fast, at 4000 RPM, will have an effect on it. Depending on the direction of the rotation, it will loosen or get tighter, there is no way around it. 

It is a bolt, as you can see, six sided. Any wrench can grab it, as intended.

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Not sure anyone is suggesting a different way of mounting a saw blade - just concerns for the forces required on a machine which has the motor, lift and angle-setting mechanics uniquely mounted on sliding rails with the whole assembly built to a set tolerance beyond that of lower spec machines. It's reasonable to question those forces in the context of the machines purpose and price point.

I own several mains tools with circular saw blades of differing sizes, some brand new and some vintage - this is the first saw blade I just can't budge and I'm fairly convinced that if I leverage any more pressure on that bolt it's either going to break something or bend out of alignment. Personally I'm not asking for a redesign just official advice from the manufacturer on how they would advise proceeding? Impact driver and hex adapter, longer wrench, PlusGas?
 
Alex said:
But as it is, making a threaded connector like a bolt spin very fast, at 4000 RPM, will have an effect on it. Depending on the direction of the rotation, it will loosen or get tighter, there is no way around it. 
I've had multiple saws (hand and stationary) and never had arbor nut/bolt to loosen or tighten from use. This never happens because arbor flange that goes between blade and bolt always has flat spots that match flat spots on the arbor shaft. Hence, the flange can not rotate relative to the arbor, even if blade slips. On its own the momentum of the bolt is too small to rotate it when starting/breaking. Perhaps CS50/70 design is different.
 
Svar said:
Alex said:
But as it is, making a threaded connector like a bolt spin very fast, at 4000 RPM, will have an effect on it. Depending on the direction of the rotation, it will loosen or get tighter, there is no way around it. 
I've had multiple saws (hand and stationary) and never had arbor nut/bolt to loosen or tighten from use. This never happens because arbor flange that goes between blade and bolt always has flat spots that match flat spots on the arbor shaft. Hence, the flange can not rotate relative to the arbor, even if blade slips. On its own the momentum of the bolt is too small to rotate it when starting/breaking. Perhaps CS50/70 design is different.

The flange is not important, the bolt is, and its thread must always be round.

I never had a bolt come loose either on any of my saws. The bolts of my TS55 and my DW65 saws are always easy to loosen, and they are normal thread. But on the CS70 with its reverse thread it is not easy.
 
trebuchet said:
Nope. Ordered yesterday.
I can´t wait to put my hands on it...

Nice.. hope your expectations are met. Mine certainly did, although I spent some time dialling in and adjusting (That was in my instance also rectifying some transport knocks) But now, I really enjoy the features and smooth control in this compact setup. I have used the sliding table and the pull/push features more than I initially thought.

Looking forward to see how you use it. I’m sure there are a few of us who’d like tips on add ons and self made jigs too. There’s just too little information about the CS 50, and the CS 70 follows on that too.
 
yeah.. very little information... and most videos are from people only talking about the machine... not using it.
It comes from Germany to Spain...
 
Alex said:
Svar said:
Alex said:
But as it is, making a threaded connector like a bolt spin very fast, at 4000 RPM, will have an effect on it. Depending on the direction of the rotation, it will loosen or get tighter, there is no way around it. 
I've had multiple saws (hand and stationary) and never had arbor nut/bolt to loosen or tighten from use. This never happens because arbor flange that goes between blade and bolt always has flat spots that match flat spots on the arbor shaft. Hence, the flange can not rotate relative to the arbor, even if blade slips. On its own the momentum of the bolt is too small to rotate it when starting/breaking. Perhaps CS50/70 design is different.
The flange is not important, the bolt is, and its thread must always be round.
I never had a bolt come loose either on any of my saws. The bolts of my TS55 and my DW65 saws are always easy to loosen, and they are normal thread. But on the CS70 with its reverse thread it is not easy.
Flange is important, because when the blade slips it drags flange and bolt with it. It is the only way to inadvertently rotate the bolt.
I have a table saw with reverse (left) thread. It never tightens in use either.
It does not matter whether it's right of left thread. Bolt/nut is always tightened in the direction opposite to blade rotation. I.e. left tilting saw - right thread, right tilting saw - left thread.
 
Svar said:
It is the only way to inadvertently rotate the bolt.

A bolt can come loose by vibrations alone, happens all the time in machines.

Second, a bolt on a saw experiences forces in two directions, one during start-up and in the opposite direction when the blade spins down.
 
Svar said:
Perhaps CS50/70 design is different.

Not perhaps... absolutely sure of that.

The CS50 has blades with a star-shaped hole. The blade can not slip, even with loosened or absent bolt... However, with loosened bolt... it does wobble.
The CS50 has the bolt and the outer flange integrated in one piece that is hand-tightened by means of a C-clip that you can fold out of it
 
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