FS Guide Rail T-Square - latest creation

[greg mann]

When I want to use a crosscut guide I just use one parallel guide attached to a rail. I was told by Sedge they weren't meant to be used that way but it works. I tested it for accuracy on a 30 inch door by cutting one long edge with a long rail and then used that edge for reference to cut the ends. I cut one end, flipped the door end for end, and cut the other end, thereby doubling any error. Thing is, there isn't a measurable error ove the 30 inch distance. I can discern about .005 when an edge lines up with a line on a tape and I just can't see any difference at each end of the cut. That's good enough for me and I find it quite easy to use. I don't believe I could machine anything significantly better so this will be my technique for now.

 

[bertv]

Why not do a knockdown triangle? Slots and knobs in and on profiles — you’d be able to have stops for the basic angles a woodworker needs, etcetera. And a knockdown would be easily transported.

 

[Cheese]

I've used MIC 6 for several projects, but luckily I could always pruchase drops so that I didn't have to pay virgin material price.

A 4' x 8' sheet of 1/4" 6061 runs about $350 while the same size MIC 6 will cost around $625.

[scratch chin] I wonder if Woodpeckers uses MIC 6 because of its dimensional stability, in their OTT large framing squares? Could explain the reason why they are so spendy.

 

[rvieceli]

This Alca 5 stuff is supposed to have similar properties but annodize better than MIC 6. Maybe they use it.

http://www.howardprecision.com/aluminum/aluminum-cast-tool-jig-plate-stock-list/alca-5

 

[Cheese]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]
That's interesting [big grin], never heard of that stuff before, but it could be the ticket. Thanks...

I did notice that the anodizing on the 26 x 16 (2012) square is rather blotchy compared to the 18 x 12 (2015). Maybe MIC 6 on early products and ALCA 5 on later products? The anodization is perfect on all of the other Woodpecker products I own.

Who knows  [unsure] and Woodpeckers sure won't say anything. Just wondering...

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[rmwarren]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]
That's interesting [big grin], never heard of that stuff before, but it could be the ticket. Thanks...

I did notice that the anodizing on the 26 x 16 (2012) square is rather blotchy compared to the 18 x 12 (2015). Maybe MIC 6 on early products and ALCA 5 on later products? The anodization is perfect on all of the other Woodpecker products I own.

Who knows  [unsure] and Woodpeckers sure won't say anything. Just wondering...

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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] is that a optical illusion or is the scale slightly off between the 2 rules? Looks like 5.5"/7" are dead on but they start to diverge around 1"-1.5" either direction.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member]
No that's just parallax rearing it's ugly head, they're both spot on. The only other scales I've come to expect that same level of consistency/accuracy with is Starrett. I've compared a new Starrett scale with one manufactured 40 years ago and they were both spot on. They got it down... [big grin]

 

[monstrol]

What about a qwas square? Or am I missing something?

 

[crazydave789]

just ordered the triton square for their guide rails, they also do an adjustable one at considerably less than festool. should be here in a few days so I'll give it a test.

 

[Biffsbench]

Richard/RMW if you ever make these for Sale I would buy one.

 

[tazprime38]

Richard/RMW if you ever make these for Sale I would buy one.

The triton t square is the same as the dewalt t square. I have the adjustable one but have only used it a few times as trying to get it exactly 90 is a pain. I should have got the fixed 90 one originally. I now use the festool parallel guide as a t square, still not perfect but ok.

 

[rmwarren]

Richard/RMW if you ever make these for Sale I would buy one.

The triton t square is the same as the dewalt t square. I have the adjustable one but have only used it a few times as trying to get it exactly 90 is a pain. I should have got the fixed 90 one originally. I now use the festool parallel guide as a t square, still not perfect but ok.

Yep, I have the DeWalt somewhere and never use it for that same reason, it has to be fiddled with and I don't trust it to stay square.

Got a chance to try out the t-square this weekend, installing some beech countertops (from Ikea) in our laundry area. Squaring it was simple with the big Woodpecker square, I just struck 2 reference lines with the square then adjusted the t-square to it:

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Used it to crosscut the beech:

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Then used the TS to cut glue-ready joints - I clamped the 2 pieces to the cutting table spaced 1.5mm apart and set the rail so I trimmed ~0.5mm from each side. Joints were perfect fits.

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I really like the Ikea beech tops, 25.5" by 74.5" cost ~$120 in 1-1/8" thick, the joints are much better than the cheap tops I have seen at Lumber Liquidators with VERY few voids/patches and the beech matches the trim/doors/rail on the stairway nearby.

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It's hard to see but I tested Surfix on the triangular scrap, absolutely LOVE that finish.

RMW

 

 

[WestcoastwoodcraftMark]

Great idea, I can see this as a go to squaring tool that lives close to my work.
I would like to suggest a notch out  a recess of some sort on the underside to still be able to fit a rail clamp so that you can clamp this setup to sheet stock , great work, count me in if you should make these for sale.

 

[rmwarren]

Great idea, I can see this as a go to squaring tool that lives close to my work.
I would like to suggest a notch out  a recess of some sort on the underside to still be able to fit a rail clamp so that you can clamp this setup to sheet stock , great work, count me in if you should make these for sale.

[member=28398]WestcoastwoodcraftMark[/member] - the clamp notch is a great idea, easily added. Thanks.

RMW

 

[squawkin]

I like it count me in for one. [smile]

 

[wkearney99]

great work, count me in if you should make these for sale.

Yeah, I like the idea, I'd pay for one.  I've got several Woodpecker's pieces, and they're great, but I'd gladly shell out for something a little more versatile like this. 

If you don't decide to make them on your own, then maybe consider selling the plans and let's all find some regional CNC shops that could fab them for us.

As for the clamps, wouldn't that be something that could be accomplished by using the bolt holes to attach a T-track underneath?  Perhaps a second set of holes to allow for the track to set outside your existing piece, to avoid losing 90 degree calibration.

 

[tmccowan]

I love the idea and would definitely buy one!

 

[Billedis]

I really like the idea as well.  Let me know if you decide to mfg them.  Bill

 

[jeff@behindthedesign.com]

Great idea.

Put me on the list for when it becomes available for purchase.

 

[ben_r_]

What ever happened to this? Never went into production?