Half Lap Joints in 4/4" posts

rmhinden

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I am making a plant stand for my wife out of redwood.  It was going to have half lap joints of different thicknesses for the side supports.

I was planning to use my Kapex for this, using the depth limit adjustment, but found that that it can't go high enough.  That is, the cut would be too deep.  The cuts need to be either 3/4" or 1 1/2" deep.  Is there any way to do this on the Kapex?

My alternative is to use my TS75, but seems pretty precarious.    The posts are too long to bring to the table saw.

Suggestions?

Bob
 
rmhinden said:
My alternative is to use my TS75, but seems pretty precarious.
I think TS would be great for it. It takes longer to reposition the rail multiple times, but you could clamp multiple posts together and do them simultaneously.
 
Svar said:
rmhinden said:
My alternative is to use my TS75, but seems pretty precarious.
I think TS would be great for it. It takes longer to reposition the rail multiple times, but you could clamp multiple posts together and do them simultaneously.

Thanks, that makes sense.

Bob
 
If you want an excuse to buy more tools, kinda sounds like the perfect job for the HKC55  [cool]
 
I considered it for a few minutes, but think I can muddle through with the TS75 :-)

Bob
 
Is it possible to build a secondary depth stop for the Kapex? Seems to me like something could be rigged up, or just put a piece of wood under the factory stop to keep the blade lifted more.

I would cut them old school, with a circular saw and a square cross grain. Then handsaw the cut with the grain. Both cuts could easily be done with a handsaw and vs using a mitersaw or the like there won't be lines everywhere. Maybe a good reason to purchase a high quality handsaw  [cool]
 
rmhinden said:
I am making a plant stand for my wife out of redwood.  It was going to have half lap joints of different thicknesses for the side supports.

I was planning to use my Kapex for this, using the depth limit adjustment, but found that that it can't go high enough.  That is, the cut would be too deep.  The cuts need to be either 3/4" or 1 1/2" deep.  Is there any way to do this on the Kapex?

My alternative is to use my TS75, but seems pretty precarious.    The posts are too long to bring to the table saw.

Suggestions?

Bob

Hi [member=66813]rmhinden[/member]

You can easily do this with great accuracy if you do it on the MFT3 or on your tracksaw cutting station. Use tall Parf Superdogs front and back against which your guide rail with be pushed. You will need some offcuts or other pieces of your stock to keep the guide rail level. Set the depth of your tracksaw to that of the depth of the joint and away you go.

Start with the accurate shoulder side and then zip through at (say) 10 mm intervals across the rest of the joint. Then tidy up with a chisel.

Peter
 
I am confused by the material size.

In the subject line of your post you say 4/4", is that four-quarter (as in one inch) or
four inches? I am familiar with the quarter designation but 4/4 and your comment
that the Kapex depth stop can not be adjusted high enough don't jive in my mind.

I suspect the latter as you say the depth setting on the Kapex won't go high enough.
One inch (4/4) is not what I would think is beyond the capacity of the Kapex or any
other SCMS. I know it's not for my DW708

I believe the Parf Long Super Dogs with their 120mm projection would be tall enough.

Is it possible to use a router and make multiple cuts of increasing depth?
 
Hi again Bob

I have now found the video where I demonstrate how easy it is to do rebates and lap joints on thick stock using your tracksaw...


Peter
 
Bob D. said:
I am confused by the material size.

In the subject line of your post you say 4/4", is that four-quarter (as in one inch) or
four inches? I am familiar with the quarter designation but 4/4 and your comment
that the Kapex depth stop can not be adjusted high enough don't jive in my mind.

I suspect the latter as you say the depth setting on the Kapex won't go high enough.
One inch (4/4) is not what I would think is beyond the capacity of the Kapex or any
other SCMS. I know it's not for my DW708

I believe the Parf Long Super Dogs with their 120mm projection would be tall enough.

Is it possible to use a router and make multiple cuts of increasing depth?

Ha!  That's funny.  It DOES say 4/4" posts, which would be 1 inch.  But I believe the OP meant to say 4x4" posts.  That's how I read it, anyway.  Even still, I would've thought the Kapex would've been able to do that.  If the wood can fit under the blade, then I'd think the depth stop could be set anywhere along that depth.

What is the highest setting the Kapex's depth stop capable of?
 
I've made half-lap joints on pressure-treated lumber on 4" x 4" stock using a circular saw.  I set the depth of cut to half the thickness and made several passes about 1/4" apart.  Only the first cut needs to be accurate and I used a square to make sure it was accurate.

A few quick blows with a hammer knocked off most of the waste and a chisel cleaned up the rest.  It made a good joint. 

I used it for a mailbox stand and it was a nice tight-fitting joint (and better than it needed to be).  This is not furniture and it requires a reset of my mindset, but even so, the results were quite good.  The post has slightly rounded corners for sorting purposes and so the joint is not going to look nice like a furniture joint, but a nice robust way to join that type of stock. 
 
Bob D. said:
I am confused by the material size.

In the subject line of your post you say 4/4", is that four-quarter (as in one inch) or
four inches? I am familiar with the quarter designation but 4/4 and your comment
that the Kapex depth stop can not be adjusted high enough don't jive in my mind.

Sorry for the confusion, it should have said 4" x 4" posts.  They are 96" long.

Bob
 
Peter,

Peter Parfitt said:
Hi again Bob

I have now found the video where I demonstrate how easy it is to do rebates and lap joints on thick stock using your tracksaw...


Thanks for the comments and a link to your video.  It shows the limitation of the Kapex trenching very clearly.    For thinner stock the trenching capability would be fine, as you can always raise up the stock, but doesn't work in reverse for thicker stock.  I wish the Kapex had a bigger range of trenching adjustment, but it doesn't.

I don't have an MFT style table with bench dogs, so your approach won't work for me directly.  My current plan is to do all of the posts together on the bench, that will provide good support for the rail and make sure the cuts are all at the same relative place on the 4x4 posts.  I will also see if my TSO guide will work to keep the cut a right angles.   

Thanks for everyone's comments.

Bob

 
I made a lot of progress using my TS55 today.    Have a few more joints to do, but it is coming out pretty well, or at least good enough for a bench in the garden.

Some pictures attached.

Thanks for all of the helpful suggestions.

Bob

[attachimg=4][attachimg=3][attachimg=2][attachimg=1]
 

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