Hammer N4400 on the way!

[Bernmc]

I noticed the US mechanical brake thing when I was reading through the N4400 manuals before getting mine.
The ROW models brake by injecting DC into the motor - I wonder whether there's some sort of US legislation that prevents this, or the puny 110V you have over there can't handle it?

 

[Rob Z]

Derek, nice work with all the mods made to your N4400.

Bernmc, the N4400 is shipped here to run on 230v.  I haven't made a big study of bandsaws, but what I have seen is some times a particular model is available with the foot brake and also (for an upcharge) an electric brake.  My N4400 had a foot brake but I don't recall if an electric brake was an option.

 

[Ambrosia]

Derek - I see your point with the mitre gauge extension. Will look into that.

I’m about 50 years practice away from your skill level and projects - I mostly cut shapes out of cheap plywood, hence the need for a larger cutting table area. One day I hope to resaw rare and valuable timbers, but right now I feel it would be a bit of a waste!

Leigh

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[southrider]

Matt -

My Rikon has a similar brake - I wouldn't live without it. The momentum from large diameter cast wheels can keep that blade spinning for a long time after the saw is off. Someone else mentioned electronic or magnetic brake - sounds great (and expensive). I don't recommend removing the mechanical brake - I use mine every time (I like my fingers, and those of my guests too).

I wasn't recommending Highland for you to buy a blade, but to learn how to re-saw. Their setup and use videos made the whole process simple and easy for a newbie to a bandsaw like I was at the time. Great info on setting up for blade drift too.

 

[Bernmc]

Electronic brakes are standard on AU/European models, and the mechanical is not an option.

Interestingly, I think the same applies to Fe$tool's QF1400 - ours has an electronic brake, but I don't believe that the US flavour does.

 

[mattbyington]

[member=42863]SouthRider[/member] got it. I'll keep it then. Thank you.

Blade comes today. Super excited to power it on for the first time tonight.

I ended up getting the 1" Lenox CT

Matt

 

[mattbyington]

Hey team! Looking for some advice.

I switched to a thinner blade : I’m using a Lenox 3/4” classic bi-metal blade with 3  TPI. I’ve only used the bandsaw 3 times so far as I just got it in. The rip cuts against the fence have left the edge pretty wavy and ripply. It takes 2 solid passes on the jointer to clean it up. I was hoping for smoother edges right off the bandsaw. I’m more than confident it is me doing something wrong here but figured I would ask. I’ve tensioned the blade according to the scale on the bandsaw, for a 3/4” blade. Thanks so much for any help.

 

[bertv]

Forget that scale. Tension by feel and you’ll notice that the scale is no help.

 

[RustE]

Curiosity question:  Any featherboards to keep the wood in position?

 

[RKA]

I’m thinking it’s either the tension or the fence isn’t parallel with the blade, but I’m no expert.  Here is a video Marc put together with Alex Snodgrass that should walk you through a quick and easy way to get everything set up.

https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/best-way-set-bandsaw/

 

[egmiii]

I’m thinking it’s either the tension or the fence isn’t parallel with the blade, but I’m no expert.  Here is a video Marc put together with Alex Snodgrass that should walk you through a quick and easy way to get everything set up.

https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/best-way-set-bandsaw/

This method likely will not work for the N4400. It was designed for saws with crowned wheels. I believe the N4400 has flat wheels.

 

[RKA]

The blade tracking part is not relevant for that reason, but the rest is useful.

I pulled up Sam Blasco’s recommendations in my email and he was pretty consistent with respect to tension.  He sets at 1/8” to 1/4” deflection 6” down from the upper wheel.  Then he turn is on with the guides set back and listens to the saw.  Any fluttering sounds means it needs more tension. 

But don’t overlook the fence adjustments.  And the other poster is right, set up a feather board to keep pressure against the fence consistent.  That should eliminate you as the source of the issue.

 

[ScotF]

Matt - are the rips consistent in width? It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the little ripples are likely caused by the alternating set of the teeth. You need to use a blade without set to get smoother rips. You will likely not achieve a glue-ready rip with a bandsaw, though. Close, but it will not be perfect. I pass over the jointer will likely be needed regardless of blade.

Nice saw, BTW!

 

[mattbyington]

[member=63201]RustE[/member] yes I have tried that!

[member=6605]ScotF[/member] thanks! I ordered a Laguna ProForce last night..we'll see how that goes.

Went with 10 TPI instead of 3 or 4. Hoping that helps.

Also, yes, the wheels are flat. I did talk with Alex Snodgrass this weekend via Facebook messenger and he confirmed that most of the methods he discusses don't apply to bandsaw. at least with regard to blade tracking.

Matt

 

[derekcohen]

Matt, it is difficult to judge from the small photo and small edge you posted, but the resaw looks reasonable. Technique comes into this as well - if you push the work piece too fast, the gullets fill up with sawdust faster, and then they push it away from the fence and cause waviness. Try pushing slower, and tension a little higher.

I would not purchase a 10 tpi blade. Return it for 3 tpi. The 1" CT resaw blade is 1.3 tpi. More teeth with simply load up faster. With 10 tpi, you have to push the blade excruciatingly slowly.

Matt, with respect, you have minimal time on a bandsaw. Learn how to use one before rushing off to buy new blades. Read my earlier comments about resaw fences. There is as much technique in all this as equipment.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[mattbyington]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] got it! thank you sir. I really appreciate your time responding. I will spend more time practicing.

Appreciate all of your insight.

Matt

 

[HowardH]

I was almost ready to pull the trigger on the N4400 but decided not to after a visit to the local Felder warehouse.  Austrians must be short people because the table height was 4" below the Powermatic and Laguna.  I'm almost 6'3" so it was a deal killer for me.  I got the PM1500 instead and it's the bees knees for me. 

 

[ben_r_]

I was almost ready to pull the trigger on the N4400 but decided not to after a visit to the local Felder warehouse.  Austrians must be short people because the table height was 4" below the Powermatic and Laguna.  I'm almost 6'3" so it was a deal killer for me.  I got the PM1500 instead and it's the bees knees for me. 

Yea I thought it was very short too! So I built a mobile base that raised it up a lot. Been great for me since.

 

[Cheese]

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but the little ripples are likely caused by the alternating set of the teeth. You need to use a blade without set to get smoother rips.

As ScotF noted, a blade with less set will give you a smoother cut surface. Consider the Wood Slicer® Resaw Bandsaw Blades from Highland Woodworking. They are available in 1/2" & 3/4" widths. The blade band thickness is .022" and it leaves a kerf that's .032". So the tooth set is only .005" per side. No cutting curves with these guys, resawing only.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer34resawbandsawblades105to166.aspx

Also stick with a 3-4 tooth blade because as Derek said you need the tooth spacing (gullet) to be large so it can remove the material efficiently from the cut.  Just like a table saw, you're ripping the material so the tooth count needs to be low.

I've resawn a bunch of aromatic cedar which has a Janka hardness equivalent to maple or cherry. This was all done on a Delta 14" bandsaw which isn't exactly a power house.  [smile]

BTW...love your saw...I'm jealous.  [big grin]

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[PeppaPig]

Lenox Tension Meter.  Buy once, cry once.  These come up on eBay every now and then.  I picked one up for $165 in excellent condition a couple of years ago - well worth the money.  The blade was severely under tensioned using the built in gauge on my 18" Laguna  (by the way, the poor customer server complaints about Laguna are from years ago.  When I bought my LT18 3000 in 2014, there was a slight issue with the throat plate.  They immediately sent me a knew one and threw in a free blade for my troubles)

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The wood slicer from Highland woodworking is a great, fairly inexpensive blade, but I believe the current king of the hill is the Laguna Resaw King.  Certainly not cheap in the $250 price range, but they can be re-sharpened up to 5 times
https://thisiswoodworking.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=RK125145