Heavy entrance door
- Thread starter DanielOB
- Start date
Solid wood has been serving the purpose for entrance doors for many years. I'd also trust the time honoured method of morticing the stiles with the proper size mortice chisel, it's easier than you might think and cost effective unless you are making a lot of doors. A decent mortice and tenon joint in the thickness of wood you mention is incredibly strong and durable, even without glue.
The large domino is probably the best machine for a small shop machine joint. Although you can buy a mortice machine for less the domino doesn't require much skill to set up and the results are fast, it's just around £800 more expensive than a decent chisel!
You might try Woodweb for lots of threads about making doors in almost every circumstance you can imagine, including 2 ply doors. As Owego has already mentioned, you could provide more detail about the type of door you are wanting to make and it would be easier to advise you.
The large domino is probably the best machine for a small shop machine joint. Although you can buy a mortice machine for less the domino doesn't require much skill to set up and the results are fast, it's just around £800 more expensive than a decent chisel!
You might try Woodweb for lots of threads about making doors in almost every circumstance you can imagine, including 2 ply doors. As Owego has already mentioned, you could provide more detail about the type of door you are wanting to make and it would be easier to advise you.
The door thickness is 2.5-3 in
size is 36 (width) x 75 in (height)
2 stiles and width is 7.5" each
3 rails and width of each is 7"
2 panels between rails thickness as stiles (2.5-3")
mortise depth is c.3" (c. = circa = approximately, 3")
Tenon thickness = 1/2"
Door will be exposed to weather (rain, snow, wind). This is an exterior door.
If I make 2 ply styles and rails, the tenon will go half into each ply.
How to join ply-to-ply (screws+epoxy glue, or titebond-iii only, or ...)
Mr. Jones
buying a machine for mortise/tenon is not an option. I have to use or chisel or router or both combined.
Tom
"1/4-3/8" thick veneer over furniture grade OSB."
Thanks, but this is not I want. I make this door for myself, so no OSB or like.
size is 36 (width) x 75 in (height)
2 stiles and width is 7.5" each
3 rails and width of each is 7"
2 panels between rails thickness as stiles (2.5-3")
mortise depth is c.3" (c. = circa = approximately, 3")
Tenon thickness = 1/2"
Door will be exposed to weather (rain, snow, wind). This is an exterior door.
If I make 2 ply styles and rails, the tenon will go half into each ply.
How to join ply-to-ply (screws+epoxy glue, or titebond-iii only, or ...)
Mr. Jones
buying a machine for mortise/tenon is not an option. I have to use or chisel or router or both combined.
Tom
"1/4-3/8" thick veneer over furniture grade OSB."
Thanks, but this is not I want. I make this door for myself, so no OSB or like.
Tenon is too thin. FWW tested mortise and tenon joints and the strongest was 1/2 the material thickness. I think you should be about 1 inch thick. An easy way to make the joints would be to make the door in three layers, each 7/8 to one inch thick. Three layers would also help stability. If you have to, you could make the mortises with a plunge router but I don't think any will plunge 3 inches. So you'd have to do it in stages. But you could also drill out the mortise - or at least remove most of the material that way and clean it up with a router. Overlapping holes with a forstener bit cleaned up with a chisel would make a good mortise. Lots of ways.
Mahogany versus Maple is mostly an appearance thing. Hard maple is heavy ad would probably need to be stained. I think mahogany is lighter and also softer and would look good with a clear finish. I don't see why either wouldn't work.
The door seems too thick. 1 3/4 is pretty thick. That's a normal exterior door thickness.
Mahogany versus Maple is mostly an appearance thing. Hard maple is heavy ad would probably need to be stained. I think mahogany is lighter and also softer and would look good with a clear finish. I don't see why either wouldn't work.
The door seems too thick. 1 3/4 is pretty thick. That's a normal exterior door thickness.
wrightwoodwork
Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2013
- Messages
- 410
Type of materials used comes down personal preference. Personally for the tenons I would beef them upto 19-21 mm if just doing standard mortise and tenon joints of the principal of 1/3 rule. Or for an even better joint do a double mortise and tenon so about 12-15mm about 1/5. The reason being to increase glue area and for that size of door its going to need all glue area it can get. It is a bit more work. The stiles I would properly only do 120mm (5") is there a reason for 7.5". The panels I would possibly make them up with 3 layers and have them cross laminated so the the first and third layer the grain going the same direction and the second at right angles to the grain for stability
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