HK or TS saws?

[ScotF]

The 1400 rail is not ideal with the 75 due to the bigger base. It works fine for smaller cuts, but you need the 1900 to crosscut sheets. I bought the 75 as my first Festool and have used it for most cutting. I recently acquired the TSC55 and really enjoy not bring tethered. So handy for quick cuts. It is lighter than the 75 and honestly it seems to me that it has more power than the corded 55. I cut 8/4 and it does not bog down like the 55 seems to do. You would need more batteries if wot king all day and of course the dust bag has to be emptied regularly, which can be a pain.

That said, I think the 75 is a great saw and probably the most versatile due to power and depth of cut. The 55 accomplishes most tasks, is lighter and the cordless  version gives you added flexibility.

 

[flair woodworks]

For the size of stock you're dealing with, I wouldn't suggest using the TS 55 or HK 55. If you are looking for high quality cuts, get the TS 75 along with the 18-tooth rip blade. Or, if you are primarily interested in cutting materials to size and a rougher cut surface is okay, the HK 85 might be the way to go (the HK 85 isn't available in North America, so I haven't seen or used one, so my knowledge of the HK 85 is based on the HK 55 which we do have).

Either way, I find the convenience of the rail system and precision of Festool track saws very impressive.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

You can get jointer quality cuts in hardwoods with the TS 75 in my experience. I'm likely going to get the TS 55 as well for sheet goods as it's more nimble in use. I'm  using my HKC 55 for light framing jobs for cordless is an advantage.

 

[lwoirhaye]

I owned a TS55 for several years and I really preferred it for plywood.  If I was cutting hardwoods I found a Porter Cable circular saw had more power.  After awhile I didn't use the riving knife on the TS either.  I would sometimes straight-line lumber with it and wished it had more power.  I think the TS made a thicker kerf and that may have had something to do with my perception that it lacked power.  Of course the cut quality was pretty good but still in ripping hardwoods it's not even close to a jointer-quality edge and would leave marks and scorching sometimes.

I was going to say I might look into a circular saw and guide rail system now.

You're not the only person I've heard say it lacked power. Part of the beauty of the TS saws is the fact people say you get a jointer quality cut (or close at least) but it seems I would be asking much of the saw.

Thanks for your help

To its credit the TS, I remember, it cross-cut 8/4 mahogany quite well I remember on one job.  Th long ripping cuts with the stress in the wood, changing grip on the saw or even taking a step could introduce "english" into the cut.  Later I got a Maffel PPS-3000 and that produces very nice straight line rips in 4/4 hardwoods, though not jointer smooth the saw pushes itself at a consistent speed and if the operator keeps the push speed appropriate to the material the rip comes out smooth and square enough to joint with a hand plane easily.  Maybe in 48" rips or so it would be glue-ready but I'm fussy about long ripped joints...  a lot depends on the tolerances of the work I suppose but I like to minimize the appearance of the glue line when I can and usually go to the extra effort of jointing.

 

[treee]

The TS55 is not the most powerful 55-mm tracksaw.
If the material is always under 2" then you either need a more powerful 55-mm saw or a larger saw.

Either saw would make a straight enough cut for a table, so it probably depends on what you like.

If I was in a shop I would go with a TS, but wearing overalls and wollen cap I would go for the other.

What is the most powerful 55mm track saw at the moment? Ideally a 55 would be preferable I'm must not sure if there is one powerful enough for what I'm after!

Thanks

Even my MT55 bogs down a bit in 2" thick hardwood with the 48 or 52 tooth OEM blade (230v)... and cutting Merenti or Jarrah, and not oak or maple.
It is not enough for me to change to a lower tooth count rip blade, but enough to get me thinking that maybe I should.  [embarassed]
I can envision that a saw with a bit less power would never be able climb on top of its power curve.
We are comparing 1400W versus 1200W... so it is ˜15% more power... The TS75 is 1600W.
One could probably do the maths and factor in the blade diameter to get torque  8)

It is cheaper than 2 saws, but if one wants two saws (as a large and a small one) then there is no great advantage one smaller saw.

If you already have rails then just get TS75. If not then you have some extra investigating work.

Thanks so much for your help, its appreciated!

I think maybe a circ saw with a rail system is possibly the way forward, it'll give me the power i need and the rail. I don't particularly need the plunge ability.

Thanks

 

[treee]

The 1400 rail is not ideal with the 75 due to the bigger base. It works fine for smaller cuts, but you need the 1900 to crosscut sheets. I bought the 75 as my first Festool and have used it for most cutting. I recently acquired the TSC55 and really enjoy not bring tethered. So handy for quick cuts. It is lighter than the 75 and honestly it seems to me that it has more power than the corded 55. I cut 8/4 and it does not bog down like the 55 seems to do. You would need more batteries if wot king all day and of course the dust bag has to be emptied regularly, which can be a pain.

That said, I think the 75 is a great saw and probably the most versatile due to power and depth of cut. The 55 accomplishes most tasks, is lighter and the cordless  version gives you added flexibility.

Thats another thing putting me off the extra £££ for extra rails. It's usually just a few cuts for me not a whole days work for the saw.

It certainly is a versatile/ capable saw but I'm just wondering if a circular saw and guide rail may work better for me!

Thanks

 

[treee]

For the size of stock you're dealing with, I wouldn't suggest using the TS 55 or HK 55. If you are looking for high quality cuts, get the TS 75 along with the 18-tooth rip blade. Or, if you are primarily interested in cutting materials to size and a rougher cut surface is okay, the HK 85 might be the way to go (the HK 85 isn't available in North America, so I haven't seen or used one, so my knowledge of the HK 85 is based on the HK 55 which we do have).

Either way, I find the convenience of the rail system and precision of Festool track saws very impressive.

Why do people say you get the rougher cuts with the HK?

You are right though, I need something along the lines of 75 power and size. We do get the HK85 in the UK so I can go and handle one fairly easily. That is what the initial attraction was the precision and convenience of the festoon system. Unfortunately though for what I want know I may have to go for a circa saw and guide rail system to achieve the power and price point I'm after.

Thanks for you help

 

[treee]

You can get jointer quality cuts in hardwoods with the TS 75 in my experience. I'm likely going to get the TS 55 as well for sheet goods as it's more nimble in use. I'm  using my HKC 55 for light framing jobs for cordless is an advantage.

Thats great to know! the 55 is certainly much easier to sling about all day! I think i'll have to go for a circa saw with a rail system to try and get everything I want out of this!

Thanks for your help

 

[treee]

I owned a TS55 for several years and I really preferred it for plywood.  If I was cutting hardwoods I found a Porter Cable circular saw had more power.  After awhile I didn't use the riving knife on the TS either.  I would sometimes straight-line lumber with it and wished it had more power.  I think the TS made a thicker kerf and that may have had something to do with my perception that it lacked power.  Of course the cut quality was pretty good but still in ripping hardwoods it's not even close to a jointer-quality edge and would leave marks and scorching sometimes.

I was going to say I might look into a circular saw and guide rail system now.

You're not the only person I've heard say it lacked power. Part of the beauty of the TS saws is the fact people say you get a jointer quality cut (or close at least) but it seems I would be asking much of the saw.

Thanks for your help

To its credit the TS, I remember, it cross-cut 8/4 mahogany quite well I remember on one job.  Th long ripping cuts with the stress in the wood, changing grip on the saw or even taking a step could introduce "english" into the cut.  Later I got a Maffel PPS-3000 and that produces very nice straight line rips in 4/4 hardwoods, though not jointer smooth the saw pushes itself at a consistent speed and if the operator keeps the push speed appropriate to the material the rip comes out smooth and square enough to joint with a hand plane easily.  Maybe in 48" rips or so it would be glue-ready but I'm fussy about long ripped joints...  a lot depends on the tolerances of the work I suppose but I like to minimize the appearance of the glue line when I can and usually go to the extra effort of jointing.

Certainly gives me something to think about! Appreciate the help!

I'm just thinking a circa saw and guide rail system is the way to go now! as it would be  big saving and ultimately actively a similar result.

Thanks

 

[Kev]

Most people here haven't seen a HK85. It's a beast. You will get a perfectly fine cut with the right blade. Just remember the HK's are not plunge saws, to plunge you need to move the blade guard.

If your target is plunging on a rail, the TS saws are nicer, but the HK's with the new FSK rails offer some great flexibility.

You'll make a little more mess with the HK's too.

Further down the track, the TS saws adapt into the CMS system (but the modules are saw specific .. CMS-TS55 or CMS-TS75). The HK's aren't CMS friendly, but you can get an awesome grooving head for the HK85.

Keeping in mind that the FSK rails shine for quick referencing, the sort of cutting you'd be doing would seem more careful and deliberate, I'd probably lean towards FS rails and a TS75 with fine crosscut + rip blades.

 

[treee]

Most people here haven't seen a HK85. It's a beast. You will get a perfectly fine cut with the right blade. Just remember the HK's are not plunge saws, to plunge you need to move the blade guard.

If your target is plunging on a rail, the TS saws are nicer, but the HK's with the new FSK rails offer some great flexibility.

You'll make a little more mess with the HK's too.

Further down the track, the TS saws adapt into the CMS system (but the modules are saw specific .. CMS-TS55 or CMS-TS75). The HK's aren't CMS friendly, but you can get an awesome grooving head for the HK85.

Keeping in mind that the FSK rails shine for quick referencing, the sort of cutting you'd be doing would seem more careful and deliberate, I'd probably lean towards FS rails and a TS75 with fine crosscut + rip blades.

Thanks a lot for your advice Kev, its appreciated! I'm possibly swaying to a different brand (unsure as of yet) more powerful 55mm tracksaw after adding it all up, or possibly a circa saw with guide rail!

 

[Holmz]

The Bosch rails are less £ and some consider to be better. Their GKS55 i believe is also 1400w. You only need two rails and a connector to make it into one long rail.

Other than price, not a lot separates it from the MT55.

 

[treee]

The Bosch rails are less £ and some consider to be better. Their GKS55 i believe is also 1400w. You only need two rails and a connector to make it into one long rail.

Other than price, not a lot separates it from the MT55.

Thanks a lot bosch wasn't a saw I had considered yet.

I've been checking out the offerings from Dewalt coming in at 1300w and the Makita at 1300w and like you say the mafell is 1400w too!

I'm just unsure if i will get the same quality of cut and accuracy as I will with festoon and even then if they will be able to cut the timber I am using!

Thanks for your help

 

[Arvid]

mafell rails are made by bosch. they are far superior rails over festool rails in a couple different ways.
they are expensive but buying a saw once is better then buying a festool then switching to mafell later as i did.
I have a ts55 for sale and the cordless ts55 for sale. I have switched completely to the mafell kss saws in corded and cordless.
They are more comfortable saws to use then the hk55. sounds like the kss60cc or the kss60cc 36v cordless is what you need.

 

[Stephen Coff]

To the initial post your talking ripping table tops etc and expecting you're wanting a quality straight finish so you'd be looking at a TS as they are a finishing saw where your HK is a rip saw and not a finishing tool. Then use for hardwoods and the depths puts the TS55 out the game and leaves you with ONLY a TS75. If you buy an MFT you can use the TS fundamentally as a cross saw on the table and best of most situations in my view, a huge amount of versatility.

 

[treee]

mafell rails are made by bosch. they are far superior rails over festool rails in a couple different ways.
they are expensive but buying a saw once is better then buying a festool then switching to mafell later as i did.
I have a ts55 for sale and the cordless ts55 for sale. I have switched completely to the mafell kss saws in corded and cordless.
They are more comfortable saws to use then the hk55. sounds like the kss60cc or the kss60cc 36v cordless is what you need.

Thats very true I would like this to be a once only purchase!

I'll check out the mafell I just don't think I will want to part with that amount of cash!

Cheers

 

[treee]

To the initial post your talking ripping table tops etc and expecting you're wanting a quality straight finish so you'd be looking at a TS as they are a finishing saw where your HK is a rip saw and not a finishing tool. Then use for hardwoods and the depths puts the TS55 out the game and leaves you with ONLY a TS75. If you buy an MFT you can use the TS fundamentally as a cross saw on the table and best of most situations in my view, a huge amount of versatility.

You are right! my only real Festool option is the 75! However as someone kindly pointed out I hadn't included the big rails with that price which tips me over the kind of money I want to spend and is either veering me in the direction of a different brand or a circular saw guide rail system. However that might not get me the finish I'm after like you say. The compromise has to start.

 

[Arvid]

You can also get as good cutting results with a standard run of the mill circular saw and a home made rip guid like we did before anyone ever made track saws.
Slap a good blade in a makita or porter cable what ever brand you have available. For a couple hundred bucks you can do what others go with $1000 set up.

 

[flair woodworks]

The HK 55 uses a thinner blade than the TS 55, which is more prone to giving less smooth cuts. Not sure if the same applies to the HK 85 and TS 75.

 

[Holmz]

mafell rails are made by bosch. they are far superior rails over festool rails in a couple different ways.
they are expensive but buying a saw once is better then buying a festool then switching to mafell later as i did.
I have a ts55 for sale and the cordless ts55 for sale. I have switched completely to the mafell kss saws in corded and cordless.
They are more comfortable saws to use then the hk55. sounds like the kss60cc or the kss60cc 36v cordless is what you need.

Thats very true I would like this to be a once only purchase!

I'll check out the mafell I just don't think I will want to part with that amount of cash!

Cheers

Maybe buy Arvid's gear if he is close (??)/

Do you understand who makes the Bosch GKS55?
As a track saw is a lot about the tracks... then I would suggest that the tracks may be more important than the saw.

In 110v )and in North America) it is difficult because 1) there is less 230v and 2) the costs are different than in Europe.

One may still may decide on a TS-75, but going in "eyes open", is only by looking at the Bosch as well as the others.

A table is a pretty simple task, and a deWalt would also work fine, or a piece of ply as a straight edge. Even and jigsaw and a plane would work.