Home Office Remodel

[DynaGlide]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

[member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] Hans I'm interested but primarily due to a pending project July-ish. If you had something available now I'd buy, absent that I will probably whomp up a DIY set.

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] Matt - where did you obtain the hex bar stock, MMC?

Thanks,

RMW

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] It's from McMaster Carr. 89845K77 I bought the 2ft length.

The other tricky part is finding a tape that will fit it. .this is the one I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8RKN68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If all you are doing are a fixed depth you could cobble together your own jig for the guide rail out of scrap MDF. Line up the router on the LR32 plate where you want it and triple check it's parallel etc. Take some measurements and make your own one off pair for that setup.

Like this:
=271s

If I only made cabinets and only used the same hardware I could see having a pair made up for 37mm and 261mm ready to go.

 

[DynaGlide]

Question for the group: I'm at the step of attaching my leg levelers. Here are the ones I purchased: Desunia Cabinet levelers

I've found mixed opinions on the function of the leg levelers. Some guides say to have them straddle the side panel to take on the load whereas others have firmly argued frameless cabinets transfer the load to the back and to the wall and other joined boxes once installed. Two of my boxes are not screwed to other boxes. The front to back set back I can work out it's the side of the box to the leveler I would like advice on. Another consideration is some of the ends will get applied end panels (and side toe kicks as well) so I'm assuming on those boxes the leveler gets placed closer to the edge of the side of the box.

As always pics are appreciated if you have them.

Matt

 

[Sparktrician]

Check out the attached PDF file, Matt.  [smile]

 

[DynaGlide]

Check out the attached PDF file, Matt.  [smile]

That sure is handy and confirms what I was thinking. .if you aren't going to see the side of a cabinet put the leveler right near the edges with proper front setback whereas if there's an applied end panel, account for the 3/4" thickness of that and shoot for the same setback as the front to back on those shown sides. I had also planned on mitering the toe kicks where they meet on the ends.

Thanks Willy

 

[xedos]

Looking good.

I'm surprised with all that TSO gear that you're still using a Betterly and Makita connectors to join the rails.

 

[DynaGlide]

Looking good.

I'm surprised with all that TSO gear that you're still using a Betterly and Makita connectors to join the rails.

That's a fair point. If Hans [member=61691]TSO_Products[/member] wants to send me some. . .until then the Makita + Betterley is deadly accurate and solid and I'd have to deal with selling them on to re-coup some of my money.

 

[hdv]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]: I don't know if you have any use for this, but here's a useful trick I learned a few years ago. Glue a bullseye level on the back of your drill. Make it so that the air bubble is in the centre ring when the drill bit is perfectly plump. That way you can look at the level to see if you are drilling straight or not.

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[DynaGlide]

[member=66485]hdv[/member] That's a good tip. I'll do that to my Milwaukee drills.

And now drum roll. . .

 

[DynaGlide]

Late night here. .just finished up a little while ago installing some recessed lighting:

 

[Sparktrician]

Good progress, Matt.  Guess you really had a long day.  [big grin]

 

[DynaGlide]

Good progress, Matt.  Guess you really had a long day.  [big grin]

And as par for course, the circuit I had to turn off to work on the lighting included the attic light. There's nothing quite like sitting up on a 2x board in the dark at midnight with a headlight running wire. At least it was nice and cool.

I think I'll go on a supply run this afternoon and work on the doors/drawers we discussed yesterday. Countertop materials won't be in until mid July.

Matt

 

[thudchkr]

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] - your project pictures along with pointers from the likes of Sparktrician are a big helpo for many facing this kind of work.

Your LR-32 Hex bar extension pictures the same solution we developed last year when we ran into the same limitations with the short standard bars and the awkward tightening/releasing of the FESTOOL attachment. We hesitated to put it into production because we were not sure if the market is big enough to justify the effort.

Maybe some other LR-32 users, who would rather do woodworking than building shopmade fixtures, will speak up ? ?

Hans

I’d be interested in getting something as well. Would be even slicker if it had multiple stops so you didn’t have to shift the stop for your next row of holes. I’m typically boring three sets of holes when I install my drawer slides.

 

[DynaGlide]

I've been putting in 12 hr days on the weekends. .yesterday was another one. I spent most of the morning assembling drawer boxes then went over to Home Depot in the afternoon to get supplies to paint. I wrapped up around 10 last night with the cabinets moved up from the basement to the 2nd floor. I don't need to tell anyone how dumb doing that by myself was.

This morning at 7:30 I hear the delivery truck pulling up with my 2.5" Maple. When I go out to help unload I saw the 1/2" sheet of Medex MDF which I had ordered from a separate supplier was already sitting outside my garage. And I thought I got going early. Jeez.

1/2" Prefinished Maple

Straight line

Ripped down off pencil line since it's a narrow rip

Cross cut using the TSO goodies

Everything came out perfect

If I were a smart person I would have ran the drawer bottom groove on the 8' sheet prior to ripping. Apparently I'm not a smart person. Vac Sys to the rescue:

Throw in the mortises and edge banding and presto, drawer sides and fronts

Back to the TSO goodies for 6 perfectly sized drawer bottoms

Now if I were a 'really' smart person I would've bought the drawer sides ready to go and spent the extra $40. I could've saved half a day had I done that. The reason I didn't is I was worried I'd mess something up and not be able to get more material whereas with my 1/2" sheet of ply I had extra. I'm still buying the ready to go sides next time, that was too tedious.

A little primer

A little paint

And bingo

Now off to read about how to setup this Freud T&G set and work out my door and drawer faces. .

Matt

 

[DynaGlide]

Freud T&G set figured out. It took some fiddling and a wasted board or two but I got 'er done. For the panels I used 1/2" Medex Moister Resistant MDF and back cut it to fit into the grooves and be almost flush to the back of the door frames. Since I didn't plan ahead to use space balls or what not other alternatives, I'm debating a dab of glue in the middle of each panel top and bottom. I started the panels off as a really tight fit but adjusted them until they were a little looser so I could slide them into position (even gap) after clamping the rails and stiles together.

Also used one of [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] Tom's tricks to clean up the drawer dominos today with the MFK700:

I left them a touch proud, mainly because I like to feel them.

Here's my super secret setup technique for the T&G router bit set. Once you have a groove done and you do it for 6mm. .slip a 6mm Domino into the groove and line it up with the tongue bit to get the height bang on.

Cutting my door parts using the Dewalt saw on the Rigid stand with my personal modifications. Every part came out dead square and exactly sized. I put two MFT/3 stops on the fence: one for the rails and another for the stiles. And LED shadow on the blade is better than any laser on the Kapex.  [tongue]

Rebating (Rabbeting?) the panels was easy as pie with this setup:

That's all for now. I'll probably have to put a stop to any further work until after my trip to the Cape on Wednesday for a much needed vacation.

Matt

 

[Sparktrician]

Great progress, Matt!  Enjoy the Cape!  [smile]

 

[DynaGlide]

I was able to sneak some time in yesterday. Now I can relax a bit easier knowing it worked out.

 

[DynaGlide]

I'm home from vacation and finding pockets of time here and there to work on the office again. I glued up and mounted the hinges on the other two doors.

After finding the high spot in the room using a laser level and getting all of the boxes positioned and level to each other, I took the outlet cover off and threaded in some extra long screws into the outlet and put a dab of grease on the heads of the screws. I then very carefully butted the PC cabinet up to the screws to transfer their location to the back of the cabinet. From there it was drilling some holes, careful cutting and luckily I nailed it on my first try. I used an outlet extender to keep the outlet protected.

The laser level has been invaluable along with the leveling legs on each box.

I still have to secure the standalone 36" cabinet but I'm taking a break to make sure I get it perfect since it sets the alignment for the countertop to the other wall.

The particle board core, laminate, and edging all arrived this morning. I'm hoping to tackle that this weekend.

This project along with the shutters I did last year and the engine rebuilds I did a quite a few years back have reaffirmed my "Sure, I can do that" mentality. It's just figuring out a bunch of little things as you go. Fake it til you make it.

Matt

 

[Rob Z]

Matt, you've done a fine job so far.  It's going to  look great when you are finished.

 

[DynaGlide]

Thanks [member=6193]Rob Z[/member] . It's a learning curve that's for sure.

Today I got going on the countertop. I took the advice of [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] and made a template. I couldn't get the drywall shims without ordering them in so I grabbed a 4x8 sheet of masonite and ripped it into strips. Starting with the walls I scribed and fit, got my front and side reveals where I wanted and hot glued everything together. Then I took the two templates to some particleboard in the garage and set to copying them with my jigsaw. It turned out pretty darn good for a first attempt at something I've never done before.

I'll build up the counters tomorrow, rout in the channels for the countertop connectors, and laminate them.

 

[Cheese]

I took the outlet cover off and threaded in some extra long screws into the outlet and put a dab of grease on the heads of the screws. I then very carefully butted the PC cabinet up to the screws to transfer their location to the back of the cabinet.

It's looking good Matt... [big grin]

FWIW...when I need to transfer the location of threaded bolts/screws/holes, I just use these and just tap the piece of material with my palm. It leaves a nice small center punch location. These are all easily made on a bench grinder to whatever size you need.

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