Is the HL850 Planeer what I need?

[JeremyH.]

I have a perhaps long term project coming up where I'm going to need to cut down 2" round wood that pokes through the surface of other milled wood. It'll be at an angle so some of it will be higher and some of it will be lower. I'm not sure if the HL850 will work.

Basically I'm trying to flush cut something that is only partially proud. Sure I could use a flush cut little saw but they seems to wonder off once you get near the area that isn't so proud. Would i use it then the planer?

This surface will never be seen. But for laminating purposes it must be flat.

The Virutex edge lipper also makes some sense, as I believe it allows you to cut down stuff that is pretty tall. It's also barely wide enough to get it all. I'm not sure how much of the machine will be on the surface for the first pass of 4 (they're legs).

 

[chrisrosenb]

My experience with planing is that it does not plane well. The lipping planer would be a better choice that the HL850. The lipping planer would give some depth of cut control.
I believe the best option would be a router with a skid shoe base. Or cut it close with a saw & finish it with a sander.

 

[sancho57]

it will work not sure if its the best way.
Need photos,
you'll prolly need the accessory fence with it to

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I would try and use a router and sled. A hand plane could work too, not powered. Even a sander like the Rotex could work.

 

[JeremyH.]

Another member posted this. This is about the same thing on the top except I'd probably have one side of the proud part be flush-ish with the top.

 

[JeremyH.]

A router may work alright but I'm sure I would have to plane it a little afterward. It must be flat with the surface for lamination.

 

[Joelm]

What about getting a block plane? It would be just a bit extra effort but you get a lot of control. Way cheaper than HL850.

 

[JeremyH.]

What about getting a block plane? It would be just a bit extra effort but you get a lot of control. Way cheaper than HL850.

Sure. I'd probably want to take it down a little bit with something else first but to finish with one would probably be good.

 

[Joelm]

On my last table I had flipped the legs upside down and glued blocks as a support for the table top. I thought they would be flush but t they ended up being about 1/8" too high.  I grabbed a scrub plane and got it flush with just a few minutes of work. If it was to be visible and not under the table I would have then used a block plane or smoothing plane to clean it up.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I would try and use a router and sled.

+1 This.

Then finish with a sander.

The 850 is no good here.

 

[Svar]

Flush cut saw / chisel, sanding. It's faster than setting up router, unless you need to do hundreds of those.
Besides, trimming through tenons by hand is so satisfying, and no earplugs or dust collection is a bonus.

 

[Frank-Jan]

I think this would work:

 

[Michael Kellough]

Agree with Svar.

I like the Lee Valley flush cut saw.

“Sure I could use a flush cut little saw but they seems to wonder off once you get near the area that isn't so proud.”

Just keep a couple fingertips resting on the blade as you saw and it won’t climb. Besides, what little wood left behind if it did climb (because there was less than a kerf thickness of wood to keep the blade from climbing) is quickly chiseled or sanded off.

 

[semenza]

Since it won't be seen just cut them close and sand the rest. I have used Multi tool to cut things like this. Just cut slightly high by eye (1/32 to a 1/16) to avoid any real gouging. Takes seconds. Then finish with a sander. Do you have a Rotex?

Seth

 

[FestitaMakool]

I wouldn’t stop you buying a HL 850, but a genuine Japanese flush cut saw and sanding is all you need. If you don’t own any Japanese saws yet, it’s high time for it [big grin].

 

[usernumber1]

hl 850 is more construction less furniture making

 

[Bertotti]

flush-cut saw

 

[JeremyH.]

If I get a Rotex what size? Would I regret going either way?

Flush cut or router will probably need sanding.

Athough this might work perfect following the flush cut saw.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...MlsjHpxlzrtH-3Eyg4Ymh6DXJgvQMFhoCtc8QAvD_BwE#

 

[Birdhunter]

When it’s necessary to get a flush cut perfectly flush, I hold the blade down right next the the wood being cut while applying a bit of twisting on the saw handle. I also, start the cut from both sides then go all the way through. If necessary, I sand with the sandpaper on a block of wood. I got my Japanese saws from Bridge City. The blades are super sharp and flexible and replaceable.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

If I get a Rotex what size? Would I regret going either way?

Flush cut or router will probably need sanding.

Athough this might work perfect following the flush cut saw.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...MlsjHpxlzrtH-3Eyg4Ymh6DXJgvQMFhoCtc8QAvD_BwE#

I think the 150 is a good all around size. If you can hold them or try them at your local dealer that will help you determine what size suites you. I have both sizes and they each excel in their respective areas. For bigger flat area, I would opt for the Rotex 150. If you sand mostly smaller areas, then the Rotex 125 might be better. The handles of the 125 are smaller than the 150 and it is less powerful. I like them both.