Is there a better way to trim edge banding?

[Vanquish]

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

Seth

When I was using my little Ridgid router, I kept spraying the bit with BladeCote. It helped control the the glue build up some. Still had to stop and scrape the glue off once in a while though. With a router with dust collection, it would probably be a bit better.

 

[Bohdan]

The metal scraper part #499749 is designed to use with the Conturo to trim and clean up the edge of the edgebanding after you cut off the excess with a trimmer. It is solid tungsten carbide so should last a long time.

It works real well on plastic and can even round over the edge, removes surplus glue off the face of melamine sheets. Don't know how it would work on wood veneer.

 

[junk731]

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

Seth

Seth are you talking about peel and stick products like whats offered from FastCap? I haven't used it. The worst product that I've had to deal was 3mm PVC. 90% of what I do is real wood typically up to 1/2" thick that's either machine applied with a glue pot edgebander or for the thicker stuff glue and clamp. The other 10% is the typical plastics upto a 1mm thick that are applied with a glue pot edgebander. With the wood there is very little buildup to clean and a little more with the plastics. Never really had a project where I would use that type of product. I think that product would be a pain for any method of trimming.

John

 

[tiralie]

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

I just use the iron on edge banding. The 700 works well with that as the glue cools off before I trim. There is a little glue build up after a 100 or so feet, which I clean off with some mineral spirits.
I have never used the fast cap edge banding.
Tim

 

[Sparktrician]

So are you guys using the 700 (or 1010) to trim thin edge banding (tape) that has really sticky adhesive on it? I just want to know how well that works out.

I just use the iron on edge banding. The 700 works well with that as the glue cools off before I trim. There is a little glue build up after a 100 or so feet, which I clean off with some mineral spirits.
I have never used the fast cap edge banding.
Tim

Iron-on edging is all I ever use.  I have very little build-up on the bit once the glue has set up.  I usually wait 15 minutes or so after banding before trimming.  It's not a planned thing; it's just how it happens in my workflow.  Lacquer thinner or acetone clean the bit quite easily. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

The metal scraper part #499749 is designed to use with the Conturo to trim and clean up the edge of the edgebanding after you cut off the excess with a trimmer. It is solid tungsten carbide so should last a long time.

It works real well on plastic and can even round over the edge, removes surplus glue off the face of melamine sheets. Don't know how it would work on wood veneer.

I bought this part recently, but haven't gotten enough use with it yet to give a meaningful answer to your question.  The very small amount that I used it on iron on wood banding it worked reasonably well removing the residual glue.  The jury is still out on using it to round/ease edges.

 

[WastedP]

I have used a laminate trimmer to trim wood FastEdge (the quad-trimmer type of tool works well enough on 0.5 mm PVC).  If you have the luxury of letting the edgebanded pieces set overnight after rolling, I recommend it.  Otherwise, I have had the banding move, and the spray of trimmed adhesive gets on everything.  It's a great product for small projects, but I could never imagine trying to build a regular production process around it.

For cleaning up PVC edgebanding on melamine or laminate panels, a razor blade on a stick is a fast, cheap, and good tool.

 

[benwheeler]

We looked at many of these options at a training day yesterday.  The MFK/OFK is definitely the #1 choice by a long chalk, if you can justify the cost.  I was fairly unconvinced by the accessories for the 1010/1400, although they would be acceptable for small projects.

The tungsten carbide scraper mentioned was really excellent - I'll be buying one asap.

For anyone confused by the range of trimmers offered by Festool (as I was), the actual tool is the same for the MFK and OFK.  The only difference is the attachments / accessories.

 

[Vanquish]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm somewhat torn between the MFK700, which looks to be one of the best options, but it's pricey and the OF1010, which isn't exactly cheap, but would be more useful to me at the moment since I could use another router right now anyway.

Of course if the 700 is much faster than the other options, then the time saved would help to offset the cost.

 

[semenza]

Yes, the FastCap peel and stick. It has VERY sticky adhesive that doesn't dry / set fully right away. I think that would be quite different going through a router than iron on.

Seth

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm somewhat torn between the MFK700, which looks to be one of the best options, but it's pricey and the OF1010, which isn't exactly cheap, but would be more useful to me at the moment since I could use another router right now anyway.

Of course if the 700 is much faster than the other options, then the time saved would help to offset the cost.

There's no question the OF1010 is a more versatile router, but I wouldn't say the MFK700 is a one trick pony.  The 700 is the router I tend to grab first for small profile or small groove/rebate routing.  However, if you need visibility of the bit or to plunge, then the 700 is out.

If you do a moderate to a lot of edge banding, then get MFK700.  The ease of use and the time saved is worth it.  The other uses you'll find for the 700 will be a bonus.   

 

[Sparktrician]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I'm somewhat torn between the MFK700, which looks to be one of the best options, but it's pricey and the OF1010, which isn't exactly cheap, but would be more useful to me at the moment since I could use another router right now anyway.

Of course if the 700 is much faster than the other options, then the time saved would help to offset the cost.

There's no question the OF1010 is a more versatile router, but I wouldn't say the MFK700 is a one trick pony.  The 700 is the router I tend to grab first for small profile or small groove/rebate routing.  However, if you need visibility of the bit or to plunge, then the 700 is out.

If you do a moderate to a lot of edge banding, then get MFK700.  The ease of use and the time saved is worth it.  The other uses you'll find for the 700 will be a bonus. 

The MFK 700 also shines when doing laminate work. 

 

[bdiemer]

I actually trim it from behind with a sharp chip carving knife and a wood backer (for lack of a better word) in the front. I then trim with a sharp block plane..

 

[aas]

Another vote for the MFK700 - fantastic tool!

 

[Michael Kellough]

About $20 off via UK at Amazon.