Kapex Table Insert

[headhog70]

Is there any reason a zero-clearance insert should NOT be used on a Kapex? 

I already broke one insert, so I need to make one or buy one.

 

[windmill man]

Hi Bob,
no reason you should not use a zero clearance insert. How did you break the one you have?

Regards

John

 

[headhog70]

I was cutting a 45 degree bevel very close to the end of a board.  The cut off piece must of fractured and the saw caught a piece that it slammed into the insert or wedged it between the blade and insert.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Bob, I've been meaning to start a thread about the inserts. I received an e-mail from a member about this issue, he broke an insert on the second cut. My Kapex has a 4/08 date on the sticker on the motor housing so it's a fairly recently manufactured saw. I think Festool may have changed the inserts to a much softer, more flexible plastic, that's what my saw has. Do any dealers know if this is the case?

 

[windmill man]

Hi Bob,

Before the Kapex was released in the US I posted some of my experiences with the Kapex. This problem with flying off cuts is not uncommon. You need to either erode the small off cut or take a bigger slice that the blade will not pick up and smash into the head or insert , a zero clearance back fence can also help. Get on to your dealer for free insert replacement. This is a problem they know about and acknowledge on this side of the pond.

Regards

John

 

[windmill man]

Hi Brice,

Looking at the image in your post , the saw insert looks like the standard issue. Its a semi flexible plastic like a poly prop material. The damage to the insert is exactly where it will occur. Classic Kapex shrapnel damage. The blade picks the small offcut up takes it through the saw housing and slams it into the insert. If it picks up a bigger off cut it slams that into the saw head housing. Result new saw head housing required. Some times it will jam the clear blade guard  or smash a tab of it as well. Does n`t half give you a shock when it does it.

Regards
John

 

[Brice Burrell]

John, I would think the inserts on my saw would withstand an impact but maybe I'm underestimating the force involved here. This is a question for Shane Holland or maybe David McGibbon, has Festool changed the plastic of the inserts?

 

[jo041326]

Hi,
I've already destroyed two sets of table inserts. Now I'm cutting either longer offcuts or using zero clearance in the back fence and have my inserts already for 4 months. I think it's some problem in Kapex's design.
Josef

 

[Eli]

We did have one smash over here in the first week. I've been very careful and it hasn't happened to me on my personal saw. If you're going for a small bevel one the end, nibble away at it. Also watch using straight down force when cutting a bevel as this pinches the offcut between the table and blade. I've had it happen on other saws.

 

[windmill man]

Hi Brice,

Totally agree with you, looking at the insert you would imagine that they would be hard to break . The material is semi flexable and you would think it would absorb the impact, but it does not. This whole issue ,is in my opinion a quirk of the design. If you knows about it you can safely adapt the way you work to avoid it happening. Perhaps it would be a good idea if you tried to replicate what happens yourself and test out my solutions on how to work round this problem and put a little tutorial on the end of your excellent Kapex review. I still would not swap my Kapex for any other make. The advantages of the saw out way these small problems.

Regards

John 

 

[windmill man]

Hi Josef and Eli,

Thats the way to go. Longer off cuts that can not be picked up or erode the small off cuts into slices that are harmless. Clamping also helps.

Regards

John

 

[headhog70]

I hope my new insert lasts more than four days.

 

[windmill man]

Hi Bob ,
Looks good, what did you make them of? Please let me know how you go on.

Regards John

 

[headhog70]

I just used a piece of oak.  I matched the hole pattern by putting a piece of paper (cut to correct insert size) into the recess, and using a mechanical pencil to punch holes where the screws are located.  Then transfer the pattern to the wood insert.

 

[rmoursund]

Just wondering if any of you mechanical types out there might want to draw out and publish a "to scale" template of the insert area for us lazy types.

 

[Warrior]

For all you lazy types here is the template.

Nah, this should take all of 15 min to make one. I made one of 1/2" baltic birch ply. I just created a rebate that left 7mm of thickness to sit on the lip. I like the extra thickness in the middle so the blade never goes thru the insert keeping it strong. The other benefit of that is that nothing gets into the rather deep well below the insert. Before making the insert small off cuts were always getting in there, plus saw dust. Me thinks that is why some of the inserts are breaking. Offcuts that are in the well may be getting kicked up by the spinning blade and slamming into the underside of the plastic inserts.

Eiji

 

[headhog70]

I cut a piece of paper the size of the insert.  I think it's 350 X 48 mm.  I placed it in the saw recess and used a mechanical pencil to punch holes where the screws are located.  Then I used the paper as a pattern.  Thickness of the insert is 7 mm.