Not only regarding the screws, dowels, etc. but the way euro hinges are sold. Some are sold with all needed parts, and others come with just some of the parts.
There is a point to the Plates-Hinges being sold separately. The shop where I work does essentially the same thing Tom (tjbnwi) does. They buy the parts in case lot quantities. The plates are somewhat universal, the 0 protrusion ones anyway, are the base of the system. Several different hinges fit them ( 1/2 overlay, full overlay, 45 degree corner, even inside "pie cut" corners) The degree of opening is even variable on some styles, so the simple thing is to buy the plates in large quantity. Then buy your hinges in the proportionate quantity. The different brands offer them slightly different in terms of opening. The much smaller, limited opening type are usually either 105 degrees or 110 degrees. These are used in situations where an adjacent obstruction, like a wall, would keep the door from opening wider anyway. (Though a lot of people us them everywhere) The ones that open wider are usually 165 or 170 degrees, but those are significantly larger, especially inside, when the door is closed. They are preferred however, when there are pullouts or drawers behind the doors, since they move the entire door out of the way. 105/110 degree hinges block the opening with part of the door.
When I first started, over 20 years ago, we used Salice, almost exclusively. Most architects didn't specify (or care) the actual brand. That has changed some, over the years. Sometimes it's an availability issue, with some of the special ones too. We stock mostly Blum and Grass now, all of them with the 8mm plastic inserts. These are much faster to install, when using pro-equipment.
The mounting plates are available with no screws, which seem to be preferred but people who are hand drilling them, with some kind of jig. They also come with the 5mm system screws installed. These are more often used by pros too, since they are generally the ones drilling with a CNC. (or at bare minimum a multi-spindle line boring machine)
The LR32 system is somewhat of a bridge between the jig/drill method and expensive, dedicated, professional shop equipment.
I was just discussing this, the other day, with my apprentice. Having a TS55, LR32 rail, LR32 plate, OF1010, and a DF500, essentially is a cabinet shop. Sure, there are additional things, which would speed things up, but the basics are there.
