Need Help Choosing a Router

[Patrick Cox]

Hello,
I am ready to purchase my first router but I am not sure which one to choose.  I initially had in mind the OF 1400 but as I read more and think about it more, I am now leaning more towards the OF 1010 because I like the smaller size and weight.  My main concern though about going this direction is some of the potential difficulties about its operation.  I have read about some adjustments being easier on the OF 1400 than the OF 1010.  Like changing bits, removing guide bushing plate (not really sure when this is needed though), and something about centering bits but I can't find that comment.

My uses for the router will be as follows...

1. Used with LR32 system for cabinetry (5mm holes and 35mm cup hinge holes)
2. Rabbits for Cabinetry backs
3. Edge Trimming
4. Maybe some 3/4" dados for cabinetry but not a lot.
5. And I may give dovetail joints a try to make some drawers.

I do not currently own any router bits and I am comfortable ordering 8mm bits from Lee Valley so that is not a concern.  And I don't believe the 8mm shank size will be a limitation for my uses.  (Agree?)

Also, dust collection is very important to me but I am not sure if there are any real differences between the two models.

So, are any of the adjustment mechanism or any other limitations of the OF 1010 that I should be concerned about?

Thanks!

 

[weekendwarrior]

Is this going to be your only router?  Some profile bits are only available in 1/2" shanks.  I got a 1010, but wish I got a 1400.  I have a large Triton to run 1/2" bits, but it's much bigger and doesn't have a track to run on.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[woodguy7]

Definitely the 1010.  I have it, the 1400 & the 2200.  For what you describe i would go with the 1010.  Take it slow with the 18mm grooves though 

 

[windmill man]

Yep 1010 all the way  Mr woodguy nailed it  Dont be tempted with the 1400

 

[Stone Message]

From what you say you want to do I agree with the guys above - go with the 1010. It is a sweet router and with the 8 mm option there is a lot that you can do. Once you become an router expert and develop your skills you might decide to get a second router and that could then be the OF1400.

I use my 1010 more than the 1400 for freehand work and it is perfect for the Leigh dovetail jig.

Peter

 

[Birdhunter]

I have the 1010, 1400, and 2200 routers. The 1400 gets 90% of the use. I find 1/2" shaft bits cut with less chatter and produce a smoother edge. The 1010 is fun to use for the light work. The 2200 is a beautifully engineered beast perfect for heavy work. The 1400 nests in between the two. It can finess light work and can be finessed through the heavier work.

It's nice to have these choices.

 

[Patrick Cox]

Thanks all!  I'm glad to hear the smaller model will work for me. Especially starting out I think I will feel more comfortable with the smaller 1010.

So which accessories should I consider?  It doesn't look like the "kit" that Peter mentioned is his video is available in the US.  Nor the 8mm bit set. (I will have the LR32 kit and rail with holes.)

Thanks!

 

[ear3]

Get the edging plate + angle arm + chip deflector setup so you can do horizontal routing.  Festool is discontinuing this -- not because it's not an amazingly useful setup, but apparently lack of demand.  So get it before it's gone.  You'll then be able to hardwood edge your ply like a boss, without need for a small trim router to ride the edge.

You'll probably want the guide rail attachment as well for rail guided routing.

EDIT: I wouldn't go out of my way, or certainly pay extra money to get 8mm bits if there is a 1/4" equivalent.  I've never had an issue running any 1/4" shank bits on the 1010, including the ones at the upper range of 1/4" shank diameter capacity.

If you plan on doing dovetails with a jig, or any kind of template guide work where you use guide bishings, I would strongly suggest getting the Leigh guide bushing adapter for the 1010 (model 704R).  The Festool one that comes with the router sits too snugly in the base, and so is difficult to center on the collet:
https://www.leighjigs.com/ugs.php

Thanks all!  I'm glad to hear the smaller model will work for me. Especially starting out I think I will feel more comfortable with the smaller 1010.

So which accessories should I consider?  It doesn't look like the "kit" that Peter mentioned is his video is available in the US.  Nor the 8mm bit set. (I will have the LR32 kit and rail with holes.)

Thanks!

 

[Patrick Cox]

Get the edging plate + angle arm + chip deflector setup so you can do horizontal routing.  Festool is discontinuing this -- not because it's not an amazingly useful setup, but apparently lack of demand.  So get it before it's gone.  You'll then be able to hardwood edge your ply like a boss, without need for a small trim router to ride the edge.

You'll probably want the guide rail attachment as well for rail guided routing.

Is the guide rail with the LR32 sufficient?  And then what about the edge guide?  Thx

 

[ear3]

I've never tried it that way, but theoretically it might work in a pinch.  You would have to disable the indexing pin that falls in the holes of the rail.  And you will have a more difficult time lining up the router on the center of the groove you're making, since there's no adjustability on the plate (not sure if the center line on the router base will even line up over the workpiece, or whether it will still be on the plate -- I suppose maybe you could make a center mark on them plate itself, but then you would have to be careful to attach the router to that exact mark every time) -- that means you have to shift the entire rail assembly to get the thing to line up.  And then if you needed to widen your dado just a tad, you won't have any microadjust capability.

Worth a shot I suppose, but I would probably just get the guide rail stops.

EDIT: I totally forgot, but it looks like the 1010 comes with the guide stop in the systainer, so you're good on that end.  So yes, definitely get the edge guide as well. 

One after market modification I learned about on the FOG was to get extra long rods for my routers, so I could use the edge guide in situations where I might otherwise have had to use the rail.  The guide rods supplied with the 1010 are pretty short (less than 12"), so you're limited in how far off the edge you can work.  So I purchased some three foot 8mm rods from McMaster Carr.  Now I can rout a groove in the middle of a panel/board, and on smaller cabinets I can make horizontal dadoes registering off the top and bottom with just the edge guide.

It's not necessarily something you need to do right away, but it's cheap enough that it might be a good option to have at your disposal when you need it.

Here's the link for the 01 tool steel version, but you can also get higher grade stainless steel ones:http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rods/=12x5f5m

In terms of priorities, though, I would say edge guide first, then the edging plate/angle arm/chip catcher setup for horizontal routing (the edging plate won't work without the angle arm -- and while the chip catcher is "optional," I wouldn't want to rout without it because of the dust), then the extra long guide rods.

Get the edging plate + angle arm + chip deflector setup so you can do horizontal routing.  Festool is discontinuing this -- not because it's not an amazingly useful setup, but apparently lack of demand.  So get it before it's gone.  You'll then be able to hardwood edge your ply like a boss, without need for a small trim router to ride the edge.

You'll probably want the guide rail attachment as well for rail guided routing.

Is the guide rail with the LR32 sufficient?  And then what about the edge guide?  Thx

 

[Holmz]

...
My uses for the router will be as follows...

1. Used with LR32 system for cabinetry (5mm holes and 35mm cup hinge holes)
2. Rabbits for Cabinetry backs
3. Edge Trimming
4. Maybe some 3/4" dados for cabinetry but not a lot.
5. And I may give dovetail joints a try to make some drawers.
...

5 ... Maybe Get a Japanese saw and some chisels, and see how you go.
4-2: a dado machine is prett optimal.
3: what material? Wood? Edging?
1: there a 32-mm systems, and templates for drilling...

I have a router and they are useful. Really useful.
But the dove tail is a good example where you can spend hundreds in jigs and still nt have as good as a 30 Japanese saw and 30$ chisel + stone.

The 32-mm holes are also somewhat enticing, but more useful for 1 or 2 than lots of 32-mm holes.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=61142]Patrick Cox[/member] - In the US, I believe, the OF1010 comes with all the needed parts to use the router on the guide rail. It includes the guide stop that goes on the rail and the guide rods to attach the guide to the router as well as the foot to keep the router level.

It is not supplied with the edge guide that a lot of folks find useful.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/product.asp?pn=492636

The guide rail that you would use with the LR32 system is just an ordinary Festool guide rail with holes bored in it for the indexing. It works any place that a guide rail is needed. Routing, sawing etc.

Here is a link to the PDF of the manual.
http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/467817_003_OF 1010_USA.pdf

Ron

 

[Cheese]

Like everyone else said Patrick, go with the 1010 for your first router. The stuff you're doing really complements the 1010's capabilities and size. My 2 1/4 HP BodyGrip® Milwaukee router just sits around cooling its heels most of the time.

I use 1/4" Whiteside router bits in the 1010 and they work well. My only 8mm bit is this Festool bit, but it's fantastic.http://www.festoolusa.com/power-too...router-bit-for-edge-banding-1mm-radius-499811

Here's a quick look at the parts Edward was referring to, highly recommended.http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/template-guides-imperial/angle-arm-486052http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/edging-plate-486058http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/chip-deflector-486242

Here's some info and a video from [member=1146]Brice Burrell[/member] on using the above accessories.

Also the standard guide rods really are limiting because they're so short, around 10" long. I purchased a 12' stick of stainless rod and made 2 guide rods that are 17" long each, they're much more versatile. I kept them at 17" so that they will fit in the Systainer diagonally.

 

[Sparktrician]

You certainly can't get a better router for the circumstances you describe than the OF 1010.  It's got plenty of power, yet it's light enough to use effectively with a Leigh dovetail jig without deflecting the guides.  It's the best option for use with the LR 32. 

 

[Cochese]

Like another poster, I barely use my OF1010. 1400 is just the business. You get a good deal more versatility for a fraction more.

 

[woodguy7]

Yup, of course you can do a lot more with the 1400 but it is much bigger & heavier.  You could do "everything" with the 2200 

 

[Patrick Cox]

Hi,
I ended up going with the 1010.  I plan to use it on my current project which is building sysports.  Thanks for all of the comments.

 

[ear3]

Excellent choice.  Putting aside collet size and power, a lot of the time it just comes down to personal preference (like do I run this 1/2" straight bit with the 1010 or 1400?)  It might just be an issue of familiarity, but I feel the 1010 is a more natural, intuitive tool, where I just take it out of the systainer and go, whereas with the 1400 I feel like I spend more time fussing with the setup.  But again, this is probably just preference.

 

[SoonerFan]

When I selected a router I went with the OF1400.  It's great for me as a hobbyist.  I had always thought some day I would pick up an OF1010 but do not think I can justify at this time.  With the pending switch to imperial it is quite possible the OF1400 will be my only router for a while.  I am hoping Festool reverses course and keeps metric as an option.

 

[PreferrablyWood]

I'm going to be receiving my OF 2200 in about a week, I have the OF 1010, and now I think I'd also like the OF 1400..the middleweight.