Nova Voyager Drill Press

[ear3]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] Any pics?  I might have to do something similar if I get this press in order to fit it in my space.

I replaced the crank on mine first with a wheel, and then with a socket - extension - long handle flex head ratchet. The wheel was OK until I added a heavy table.  The ratchet set up works well ..... plenty of leverage and no interference with wall or table.

Seth

 

[Michael Kellough]

Not the best angle to judge space requirements or savings but it looks like it does not project to the rear any farther than the clamp arm that fixes table height and it obviously does not come close to the right side of the table.

The drill is in another shop across the Hudson so it’s not convenient at this time to get a better picture. I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

The laser is a Wixey device. It has to be adjusted to the height of the work surface (the top of the workpiece) but if you have a lot of work at that height it’s helpful.

 

[semenza]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] Any pics?  I might have to do something similar if I get this press in order to fit it in my space.

I replaced the crank on mine first with a wheel, and then with a socket - extension - long handle flex head ratchet. The wheel was OK until I added a heavy table.  The ratchet set up works well ..... plenty of leverage and no interference with wall or table.

Seth

    Nothing fancy.

    I used a threaded rod connector to make the transition. In the case of this Delta press I drilled and tapped through the side ( the connector) for a set screw to tighten against the flat side of the drill press shaft. Others may be different. Then just added whatever socket / ratchet stuff I wanted.

    [attachimg=1]      [attachimg=2]

Seth

 

[Cheese]

I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

Michael, I have an older Delta drill press with a "production coolant table", add on a Woodpeckers top and a 40# Heinrich vise and even with the stock crank set-up it can be very difficult to raise. I find that by lifting up on the front edge of the table, even slightly, with one hand while then cranking with the other hand the process becomes much, much easier.  [big grin]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I’m able to raise the table via the wheel even with the heavy cross slide table onboard, but not easily.

Michael, I have an older Delta drill press with a "production coolant table", add on a Woodpeckers top and a 40# Heinrich vise and even with the stock crank set-up it can be very difficult to raise. I find that by lifting up on the front edge of the table, even slightly, with one hand while then cranking with the other hand the process becomes much, much easier.  [big grin]

Don’t think it would go up at all without lifting the front of the table. Also, might gouge the column.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think the wheel is easier to turn than the long crank, no extraneous lateral motion. But you do have to get farther around the side of the table to get to the wheel.

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=14226]sprior[/member]

This thread is taking a dangerous direction.  We'll start off just having a motor with an up or down button, then someone will get a bright idea to have a digital position readout (in mm of course), then how about programmable positions, then all the money gets sucked out of the room.  Oh I forgot, this a the Festool forum, no money left anyway  [wink]

You asked for it  [tongue]

12v 1Ton lift

I let you deal with the digital readout  [big grin]

You can also use something like powerlift Desk with 4 programmable position.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

My Rohm Spiro chuck arrived today, the arbor is to follow.
I’ve owned a few Rohm chuck before, (Supra) and always been very happy with them. This time I dropped a bit more money on the Spiro, it’s built to a better tolerance. Feels very nice in the hand, just hope it’s as nice on the Voyager.

Will start making my table on Sunday hopefully, and possibly a mobile base, and an anchoring bracket for the column.
Really love this machine.

 

[Mario Turcot]

That's a nice chuck  [smile]

You seriously consider a mobile base?

Any draft of your table yet? I watched a few dozen videos of people table and I'm not decided yet. I like that one from WoodSmith but there is so many.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Hi Mario, yeah it’s a real nice chuck, I’m considering a mobile base, only because the area where the press will probably live, is used mainly for stock storage, and it might mean the drill press would sometimes have to moved out of the way, and then replaced again. Just like being pulled out a few feet, then pushed back.
If I went with this, it would also have an anchor point on the column to hold it firmly in place.
Still undecided though, and may locate it elsewhere.

I think for the table, I’ll use 18mm melamine faced ply, bonded to standard 18mm ply. Then four T channels going front to rear, and one full width channel at the front.
And a fence with a flip stop, maybe two.

I’ll keep the measurements and post it up when done 

 

[ear3]

Just sold my Ridgid drill press on Craigslist!  Am going to place the order on the Nova pretty soon, once I figure out how to coordinate delivery.

 

[nclemmons]

I think you will really like it. 

I just used mine for precisely drilling cup hinge holes for 8 cabinet doors.  With an added table made from Woodpecker parts, the drill press makes it really easy.  Love the automatic depth stop and the variable speed as I've never been that confident with turning a large Forstner bit too fast.

Check with your local Rockler as I got a mailer on floor models of various fixed base tools on sale including the Nova drill press here in Chicago.  You might find one locally.

Also, check when you get it as there have been two software updates since I owned mine.  You need a windows-based computer with USB to update the software, but the new features are nice!

 

[Mario Turcot]

I think you will really like it. 

Love the automatic depth stop and the variable speed as I've never been that confident with turning a large Forstner bit too fast.

Don't forget the zero setting for depth stop. At first I set my zero with the table. that;s after a few months I realized that the zero is a reference with the piece you want to bore. Easy and quick setting. Put your bit on and your board, while the drill speed is off drive down the quill until you touch the board. Hit the ZERO button. Release the quill and set your depth. For some reasons it took me a while to figure that one  [eek]

Perhaps, reading the manual would have helped a bit.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I have now put mine on a mobile base, if I have too move it, I lower the table to help with it being top heavy, and it is very easy to move around. I have small heavy duty castors that take 120kg each, swivel lockable. I made some wall clamps for safety too. When it’s locked down and clamped it’s solid as a rock.

Hopefully start making my table in the next few days too.
Had a surprising issue with the new Rohm chuck. I checked my machine’s spindle without chuck and arbor, and it was .005 half of a 1 thousandth of an inch. Then the Chinese arbor, .002, the Rohm arbor was around the same. Then mounted the Chinese stock chuck .005, then put the Rohm chuck on, tried with both arbors, and a disappointing .009
I have had Rohm chucks before always good, mainly Supra’s, this one is the better tolerance, more expensive Spiro.
I sent the supplier videos of the runout tests, and the chuck is on it’s way back to Rohm.
They can refund or replace, I want the chuck but one that doesn’t wobble  [blink]

If not I guess I’ll shell out a little more for an Albrecht.
Amazing machine though, been using the depth stop a lot recently. I half expect the machine to talk to me when I switch on!

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the tips.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

[member=37411]ear3[/member] Another tip, my Voyager came with a chuck guard, apparently the European version has to have one (EU regs). So the software update is different, and some have installed it by mistake, which means the machine will not start, as it thinks the guard is open. So just double check you have the right firmware.

I have actually removed my guard as it was annoying me, and I just leave the micro switch in the closed position.

 

[ear3]

Thanks Jiggy!

[member=37411]ear3[/member] Another tip, my Voyager came with a chuck guard, apparently the European version has to have one (EU regs). So the software update is different, and some have installed it by mistake, which means the machine will not start, as it thinks the guard is open. So just double check you have the right firmware.

I have actually removed my guard as it was annoying me, and I just leave the micro switch in the closed position.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

You’re welcome, and I hope you enjoy the machine, I’m sure you will.

 

[Bob D.]

Just sold my Ridgid drill press on Craigslist!  Am going to place the order on the Nova pretty soon, once I figure out how to coordinate delivery.

10 years ago when I bought my Unisaw Woodcraft delivered it to me in their truck with a lift gate. I have a pickup and a trailer but the lift gate made it very easy, they dropped right at the garage door. I think it cost me $50 for them to bring it the 25 miles to my house, and that included a bridge toll. From there I moved it into the shop and set it up on my own, including picking the saw up to set it in the mobile base.

If you don't have a pickup you can rent one with a lift gate I believe from U-haul for less than $50/day I would bet, or maybe whoever you are planning to purchase from can handle delivery as Woodcraft did for me.

 

[ear3]

Just pulled the trigger on the Drill Press.  Ordered direct from Acme tools, which does free delivery.  I'll see if I can convince driver with a generous tip to help roll the unit down my 70 foot (fortunately flat) driveway to the front of my garage/shop, as opposed to just dropping it curbside.

I have my neighbor, who works UPS freight, on assist with muscle on the assembly.