preserving old wood

[truck90278]

I'm working with my son on his house and have a question .  The paint under the eves is  peeling badly (house build 1941) and has not been taken care of.  The wood is pretty dried out.  One painter told us that no matter what we do, because the wood is pretty dry (not rotted out) we will continue to have paint peeling even after sanding (using our RO125 and priming - so there will be continuous maintenance.  Is there any treatment that can be applied to the wood after sanding that will minimize future peeling?  We live in the Los Angeles area.

Thanks for any help
Ralph

 

[Alan m]

if its under the eave, why not put a synthetic or plastic material in there and never have to worry about it again.

i dont understand the painters advice. why would it being dry be a problem. i would assume being wet  would be a problem with water trapped under the paint. surly if it is dry it is unlikely to move about like wet wood so would cause less cracks in the paint causing dampness behind.
also mdf and plywoods are very dry and paint can stick to them just fine.
i dont know enough about your us products to specuate or them but im sure one of the top of the range primers should work

 

[Jay Knoll]

You might try west system

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/OtherUses.pdf

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Doesn't make any sense to me unless there has been some wood rot and the wood has some defective areas. 

If there is no rot, a good primer ought to do the job nicely.  Followed, of course, by a good exterior paint.

If there is rot, this product is the bee's knees:  CPES penetrating epoxy.

 

[Scott B.]

I own an 1890's house in Vermont, and am preparing to do a round of the very same type of maintenance this year (God willing).

My experience on painting old houses is that they have issues that are completely different from more modern era homes. For one, the building foundations and building envelopes are several generations behind in most cases. They breathe completely differently. To keep it simple, what you are facing is partly a change from old to new school in paints and primers. Up until this decade, oil primer was the standard for scraping and priming on old houses. This is no longer the case. Because oider houses breathe out usually somewhere up top, often in the soffet areas, Moisture from the inside out literally pushes paint off the house exterior, from the inside, Scrape and contain the loose stuff as best you can, then go Rotex nutty on it at 80g. It is critical to go to a latex primer in the affected areas, with a latex topcoat. This system breathes better, and is more flexible on the brittle old wood. I have gone to azek on a couple of fascia sections that get tore up by icedamming, and have been very happy with that, but this should not be an issue in your location.

 

[truck90278]

Thanks for the inputs, any siggestions on what abrasive paper to use?

 

[leakyroof]

Rubin for bare wood, Brilliant 2 for Painted areas, Granat for painted areas and also bare wood . Cristal for aggressive sanding- I believe it's not open coat, as it seems to resist clogging when I need to sand over previously painted areas. I'm sure Scott B. will add his expertise and correct anything I got wrong.. [smile].  He's a great resource to have here at FOG