Q1400 Router - Base Drawing
- Thread starter scalci
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- Feb 22, 2016
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Do you have access to a copy machine?
Just set the router on the glass and hit the copy button.
Good to go.
Sometimes you may need to adjust the contrast to get things like screw holes to show up, but in one or two tries you will get it dialed in.
I used this method a couple years back for some small tools that I wanted to make cutouts for in a foam-lined box. I just arranged the pieces on the copy machine glass and nested then as best I could and in the order/orientation I wished them to be in the box them made a copy. I used that copy as a cutting guide for the foam. Not CNC precision but worked well enough.
Just set the router on the glass and hit the copy button.
Good to go.
Sometimes you may need to adjust the contrast to get things like screw holes to show up, but in one or two tries you will get it dialed in.
I used this method a couple years back for some small tools that I wanted to make cutouts for in a foam-lined box. I just arranged the pieces on the copy machine glass and nested then as best I could and in the order/orientation I wished them to be in the box them made a copy. I used that copy as a cutting guide for the foam. Not CNC precision but worked well enough.
Michael Kellough
Member
Keep in mind most laser printers shrink the image in one direction (only) by between 1 and 2 percent so the image will be slightly out of true proportion. If you need higher fidelity scan and then print with an ink jet printer.
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2016
- Messages
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Michael Kellough said:
That may be true but easy enough to check with a test which I did using a Starrett 12" rule that I then compared to the copy. Did this three times, top to bottom, left to right, and diagonally. If I had more than one rule I could have done it with fewer test prints. I think no matter what you print with you will need to check and/or adjust scaling.
Cheese
Member
scalci said:
I have a drawing that I made that superimposed the 1010 dimensions and the 1400 dimensions on top of each other so I could drill a Micro Fence router base to accept both routers.
[attachimg=1]
The holes with the white dots are for the 1400.
[attachimg=2]
A photo of the actual drawing. This is in .dwg form and you will need that to open it up. I believe the dimensions are on another layer so that can just be activated. Easier yet, this drawing was saved as full sized 1:1 so if you print it, you can use it as a pattern.
[attachimg=3]
Pm me if you need the actual .dwg drawing file.
Attachments
Cheese
Member
Thinking a little more about this, why not just remove the phenolic base from the 1400 and use that as a pattern? If you have transfer punches it becomes really simple. You'd still be good accuracy wise just using a sharp scribe and a good eyeball. [big grin]
You might want to check out what Guido Henn did for something similar. This link leads to an article on the Rockler site and it is not entirely clear if this is an interpretation of Guido’s design or he wrote the article.
https://www.rockler.com/how-to/easy-to-build-clamp-on-router-table/
Peter
https://www.rockler.com/how-to/easy-to-build-clamp-on-router-table/
Peter
