Renault Trafic

galwaydude18 said:
I must have a good look at the led set I have in the shed and see can I wire it up without the transformer

It shouldn't be a problem. As long as the LED strip is 12v (a small proportion of them run on 24v, but it's quite rare) then you can wire them straight into the vehicle wiring.

Just make sure you get the polarity right.
 
galwaydude18 said:

You could, but that's an RGB (colour change) strip, so needs a controller. The controller works off a 12v supply so you could still do it, but do you want an amazing array of colours in the back of your van?

You'd probably be better with a single colour strip, either warm white or cool white.
 
Hi JRB I had another root in the shed and found a white led strip light so I'm using that. I wired it up to the positive and negative wire in the van and they turn on but the problem now is that when the doors are closed it stays on all the time so I have it disconnected it for now. Any thoughts on why it won't turn off?
 
One might also consider using a second battery for the lights so the vehicle battery does not get drained. It is possible to add an accessory battery the is charged from the vehicle when it is running but isolated by circuitry so running the accessories does not drain the vehicle's battery. This setup is common to boats and RVs.
 
galwaydude18 said:
Hi JRB I had another root in the shed and found a white led strip light so I'm using that. I wired it up to the positive and negative wire in the van and they turn on but the problem now is that when the doors are closed it stays on all the time so I have it disconnected it for now. Any thoughts on why it won't turn off?

If you wire it up to the same wires that powered the old light, it should behave the same.

The only reason I can think of why it wouldn't, might be completely wrong, but here goes:

Did the old internal lights have a delay on them? i.e. you close the doors and rather than going off straight away the lights stay on for a few seconds & then fade away to nothing. If that's the case, then it may be due to that - when the door shuts & activates the light switch, the main 12v power is shut off but it has a small circuit that acts as a capacitor (think of it like a very small rechargeable battery). This capacitor supplies power to the light for an extra few seconds, until the bulb drains it. Because you're now using LEDs instead, they use less power so the capacitor lasts a lot longer. It will switch off eventually but take a lot longer.

Like I said, the above may be completely wrong, but it's a theory. And now you've got me thinking about it 'cos I want to replace my existing lights with LED strips, and my lights have a delay on them... [eek]

Just a thought - wire the original lights back in (in parallel with the LEDs) and see what happens with the old lights connected as well. If my theory above is correct, then the lights should go off slightly quicker than they did before.
 
JRB I have them working now.  [big grin] They turn on when I open up the doors of the van and when I close them they fade away after a few seconds until they turn off. It turns out that I had them connected to a permanent live feed and by connecting them to the third wire instead they work. Now I the only thing I have noticed is that when I have the van turned on that they stay on when the doors are closed. I suppose thats not the worst thing
 
galwaydude18 said:
It turns out that I had them connected to a permanent live feed and by connecting them to the third wire instead they work.

[doh]

Was going to mention that possibility, but thought that was too obvious.  [big grin] Plus, in my lights I don't have a permanent live. Good that you got it sorted, though!  [thumbs up]
 
Thanks JRB  [thanks] I'll have a picture when it gets dark here later on. I only have them temporarily on at the minute until I get round to putting some racking into the van and I have plans on how I am going to put in the lights then..  [big grin]
 
This maybe a silly question but where did you connect into the circuit.
 
At the back doors the interior light was missing and the connection was also gone. All that was remaining was the wire for the light so I connected into them using electrical connector blocks. I will do it more professionally when I get the time to.
 
Is it possible that you have connected into the permanent live. Also if some of wiring/ lighting has been removed it maybe that there was gremlins in the electric circuit and the previous owner just disconnected it rather than fix it. Just a thought.
Dave
 
Ya I figured out that I had wired it into the permanent live feed and when I wired it into the third wire It all worked fine as it should do.
 
Hey Retrac, great setup in the new van.  [cool]

Say, how are you stopping your boxes from sliding out of the shelving when you go round a corner or hit a speed bump etc?

Thanks

[big grin]
 
retrac said:
Work in progress Renault Trafic SWB

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Thats a really nice looking setup!! Those festool boxes look far to new and clean though!!  [poke]
 
Steveo205 Thanks. I used a router to cut squares under where the T-LOC feet go.  Got the idea from this site.

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festool-D5VEO Thanks. I do keep them clean. My work mates always mock me about them.
 

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These are the only pics ive got of inside my van so you cannot see it too clearly
The first section for my kapex has a block at the top to roll it under, once in it does not move
The next section houses my sysroll with systainers on, the height is worked out so it can not tip over, I decided not to have individual shelfs to make it more versatile
The systainers at the back again stack so they will not tip over, 1 bay has a syscart the other systainers to the floor, worst case i have to lift 3 off to get the bottom one
Instead of raising the floor i went for a shelf ontop accessed from the back or side, this holds my rails levels hinge jigs and anything else long and narrow



From the back the rack on the left holds 3 wings for my kapex with shelves above for screws & nails
 
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