router lifts

[dltflt]

Thanks Pedro I just signed up.

 

[rmh]

Thanks for the feedback on a PlungeLift for the new Festool router. Not sure that we'll do anything with it in the near term. I studied it this week. Integrating may be difficult. I do however want to make an aluminum plate for it but don't own one to derive hole locations from. If any of you would be willing to let us borrow one for that purpose, which will take a couple weeks, we'll return it with a free Cast Aluminum Mounting Plate and (3) TwistLock Rings and Brass Starting Pin. I know, we could also buy one, but dropping $800 is a bit much to get a half dozen hole locations.

FYI, Mathew has been very gracious in welcoming Woodpeckers to FOG. A point of clarification, although we demonstrated Incra Products at 400+ shows from 1991-2004, Woodpeckers has always been an entirely separate company from Incra and have no business ties other than we're an dealer for Incra.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks for the feedback on a PlungeLift for the new Festool router. Not sure that we'll do anything with it in the near term. I studied it this week. Integrating may be difficult. I do however want to make an aluminum plate for it but don't own one to derive hole locations from. If any of you would be willing to let us borrow one for that purpose, which will take a couple weeks, we'll return it with a free Cast Aluminum Mounting Plate and (3) TwistLock Rings and Brass Starting Pin. I know, we could also buy one, but dropping $800 is a bit much to get a half dozen hole locations.

FYI, Mathew has been very gracious in welcoming Woodpeckers to FOG. A point of clarification, although we demonstrated Incra Products at 400+ shows from 1991-2004, Woodpeckers has always been an entirely separate company from Incra and have no business ties other than we're an dealer for Incra.

But he forgot to give you a distinctive color 

Thanks for the update on the PlungeLift 2200 idea.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

FYI, Mathew has been very gracious in welcoming Woodpeckers to FOG. A point of clarification, although we demonstrated Incra Products at 400+ shows from 1991-2004, Woodpeckers has always been an entirely separate company from Incra and have no business ties other than we're an dealer for Incra.

Richard,
Thanks for clarifying that.  Back when I first learned about Incra several years ago, I always saw them on the Woodpeckers site, so I sort of joined the two in my mind.  Sorry if I confused Woodpeckers and Incra!  Now I know the real story.

It's great to have you here in the forum.

Please share your ideas about tools and woodworking.  And if you think of creative ways to join Festool and Woodpeckers products, definitely tell us about it!

Stay in touch,
Matthew

 

[Bill Wyko]

I think I got my Incra stuff from Woodpeckers too. Much better pricing than most places.

 

[tvgordon]

I bought a PlungeLift for my Porter Cable 7539 router and installed it in my router table this past weekend.

So far I like it.  On the PC the plunge lock lever has to be held in place to plunge the router.  So I have to reach under the table to hold the release lever while turning the router lift crank with my other hand to move the bit up and down.  I still like it much better than what I was using. ;D

Tom.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Good Afternoon,
I've been very happy with my PRL for quite some time.  Just received an e-mail this morning from Woodpecker about a new PRL -- what they are calling the VR2.
Looks very interesting.  Here's a link:http://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.html
Matthew

 

[bonesbr549]

Good Afternoon,
I've been very happy with my PRL for quite some time.  Just received an e-mail this morning from Woodpecker about a new PRL -- what they are calling the VR2.
Looks very interesting.  Here's a link:http://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.html
Matthew

I love mine as well. I looked at the VR2 looks really nice. 

 

[rmh]

I appreciate the comments regarding our other router lifts as well as the mention of the newest one, the PRL-V2. If any of you would like to know more about it, how it works, the development process or anything else of value. Please let me know. Thanks a bunch.

Richard Hummel
Woodpeckers Inc

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Richard,
Thanks for coming in this morning.  I think a lot of people would find the new PRL useful.  Ever since I got a PRL in my shop, it has totally changed how I think of my router table.
I should say, sorry I referred to the new product incorrectly in my message above.  It's the "PRL-V2."
Thanks again,
Matthew

 

[Steve Jones]

I bought a PlungeLift for my Porter Cable 7539 router and installed it in my router table this past weekend.

So far I like it.  On the PC the plunge lock lever has to be held in place to plunge the router.  So I have to reach under the table to hold the release lever while turning the router lift crank with my other hand to move the bit up and down.  I still like it much better than what I was using. ;D

Tom.

Tom,

I've used a couple of Porter Cable and Bosch routers under a table (all had the issue of the spring loaded lock) on all of them I found I can remove the lock lever (single screw) and remove the spring behind it and replace the lever, this is all the conversion I do for table use.

Then you can unlock the height, make your adjustments from above the table and re-lock it.

I can still use each router freehand or table mounted, just remember to lock the height adjustment before you cut.

 

[tvgordon]

Thanks Steve,

So if I remove the spring, I won't have to hold the lever to raise or lower the bit?  That would be a great help, it is awkward to reach under the table to hold the lever while turning the lift  crank with my other hand.  I don't plan on using the router freehand (I have a couple other large routers), so that wouldn't be an issue anyway.

Tom.

 

[Steve Jones]

Tom,

You've got it.

If your planning on dedicating the router for table use and want want to take the mods a little further, you can also remove the lift spring (I think in PC's it's usually 2 springs) The idea is a hand held plunge router has a spring to help support the weight under plunge use, but of course under the table the spring is working against you and effectively doubling the weight.

You'll probably find exact instructions on line for each model, but basically you remove the plunge base (PC stops the router from lifting entirely off the posts with a circlip) and remove the springs. Put it back together and you have a decent conversion to table use.

 

[tvgordon]

Steve,

If I remember right, the instructions for the lift said not to remove the plunge springs.  I know of others who have removed them on the Hitachi plunge routers, but I think I'll leave those springs in for now.

Tom.

 

[ken257]

  I've used a PC 690 in the table for years now and it's got to the point where it sometimes comes loose from the base and I would like to use larger bits.  I was sure glad I have a switch mounted to the table the time the router dropped out of it's base!  Luckily it landed on the shelf on it's top and not it's side.

Tom.

Take a carefull look at some of the lifts as they clamp on to the body of the router and you do not use the base. If your PC is still good but just the mechanism holds it in the base is worn the right lift should allow you to keep using it.

 

[ken257]

Zaphod you are not alone. I do not use a lift either just never had a problem with the way I have been doing things for more then 20 years. The first router table that I used was in the mid 80's and the base was bolted solid under the table, no plate. Now the plate does make things easier. Instead of dumping money on a lift I would rather buy another router and a plate so that I would not have to change bits or the setup at all when making rail and stile doors for example. To me it just seems like a wiser use of money.

 

[woodshopdemos]

Steve,

If I remember right, the instructions for the lift said not to remove the plunge springs.  I know of others who have removed them on the Hitachi plunge routers, but I think I'll leave those springs in for now.

Tom.

Yes I have done it both ways. Th elogic for removing was to ease the load required to elevate the router with the RouterRaiser. But we found that it did fine. If you do remove them, watch out for the little bronze peg that will fall out. Hellish to get back in. Check out woodshopdemos.com and go to main menu and you will see instructions for adapting Hitachi M12V -- a really nice router for the table.

 

[Matthew Schenker]

Good Afternoon,
I worked for a while without a lift, just like most people here!  But once I started using one, I would never be able to go back.  It's one of those things that just changes the way you work.  There are several good lifts on the market, but after I did my research I decided on the PRL.
Matthew

 

[HowardH]

Count me in for another vote for the Jointech digital lift.  Works extremely smoothly.  You can adjust it for .001" at a time.  No guesswork.  I built their router cabinet and have their cabinet makers system as well.  Having the digital lift has come in handy when micro adjusting for dovetails.  I currently have the Bosch 1617 mounted permanently and wonder if I should upgrade to the PC 3hp model.  I always have to be careful about not hogging too much off at one time due to the lower HP of the Bosch.