Simple Router Table "Box Joint Jig"

[festoller]

Router Table Box Joint Jig

I've recently bought a non Festool router table for my OF 1010. Although many would argue the OF 1010 is not the perfect match for this purpose I am very satisfied with this solution. I?ve thought about buying the MFT extension together with the CMS OF 1010 (#495510 & #570251) but the price seemed is a little to high compared to other manufacturers and this low cost solution.

Anyway I am now searching for a simple box joint jig instead of buying the expensive Leigh Finger Joint attachment for my D4R. Although the Leigh is great for dovetails, I think for simple box joints the router table is easier to use and set up.

I've searched all forums including Fine Woodworking (and about 7 Taunton Woodworking books) and although I found several examples but not one seemed simple enough and I'd rather spend my time on using the jig instead of constructing it.

Additionally a cheap and easy jig I found at Axminster's is out of stock.

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I'd still prefer a simple homemade solution, can someone help? I would appreciate any input.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

All you really need are a miter gauge, a length of straight wood for a fence on the miter gauge, the right size router bit and a small piece of wood to index the joints.

Screw the wood to the miter gauge so it overlaps the router bit on each side. 

Make a cut with the bit set to a bit less than the final height of the joint and make a pass with the miter gauge to cut the first notch.

Fit a small piece of wood into the notch which will be what each cut notch indexes over to cut the series of joints. 

Adjust the wood on the miter gauge to space a notch sized space between the piece of indexing wood and the next cut.

Make the next notch cut and you are ready to go. 

Just remember that some pieces will start against the indexing piece and some will start at the notch opening so that you will have one side end with a pin and the other with a open notch to accept the pin.

You can also add a piece of 1/4" material under the wooden fence so the pieces being notched ride on the 1/4" material rather than on the router table itself.

This same jig can be made and used on a table saw with a dado blade setup.

A new jig is needed for each different size of joint you want to make.

Getting the spacing of the indexing pin to the next cut is the tricky part and is best measured with vernier calipers if you have them.

Hope this helps....

Personally, I would probably go with the Leigh Jig attachment if you are going to make many joints and of different sizes.  Leigh jigs work wonderfully.

Best,
Todd

 

[bossie]

@festoller,  german woodworking teacher Guido Henn made a very good jig for box joint on the router table.
Here is a video boxjoint from a german woodworking magazin. The whole jig is described on FineWoodworking. Guido Henn also has very well designed routertable; I found a complete description, drawing, sawlist  in pdf format on a Dutch woodworking forum routertable, it is the pdf in the first message, since it is in Dutch .

jaap

 

[festoller]

Thanks Bossie although it's probably a little time consuming.

I can't make a decision between the Axminster, Rockler ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21338&filter=box%20joint ) or the Leigh finger template.

Although I already have a Leigh for dovetails the price for the finger template is quite high compared to the Rockler and in combination with a router table the Rockler seems to make more sense.

 

[johnsonri]

All you really need are a miter gauge, a length of straight wood for a fence on the miter gauge, the right size router bit and a small piece of wood to index the joints.

Screw the wood to the miter gauge so it overlaps the router bit on each side. 

Make a cut with the bit set to a bit less than the final height of the joint and make a pass with the miter gauge to cut the first notch.

Fit a small piece of wood into the notch which will be what each cut notch indexes over to cut the series of joints. 

Adjust the wood on the miter gauge to space a notch sized space between the piece of indexing wood and the next cut.

Make the next notch cut and you are ready to go. 

Just remember that some pieces will start against the indexing piece and some will start at the notch opening so that you will have one side end with a pin and the other with a open notch to accept the pin.

You can also add a piece of 1/4" material under the wooden fence so the pieces being notched ride on the 1/4" material rather than on the router table itself.

This same jig can be made and used on a table saw with a dado blade setup.

A new jig is needed for each different size of joint you want to make.

Getting the spacing of the indexing pin to the next cut is the tricky part and is best measured with vernier calipers if you have them.

Hope this helps....

Personally, I would probably go with the Leigh Jig attachment if you are going to make many joints and of different sizes.  Leigh jigs work wonderfully.

Best,
Todd