So I got a domino. And I'm makin a bunk bed.

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Sep 25, 2013
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I'm gonna be making trays to hold the mattresses with 3/4" plywood supported by poplar 2x4 frames.  For making the frames I'd like to use my shiny new domino.  It's a 500, so I'm wondering if this is appropriate for the job (I feel like yes with proper domino layout), and what the best layout would be.  3 or 4 parallel spaced evenly down the end?  One on each edge?  Something I haven't considered?
 
Construct the frame.  But now that you mention it,I do have this domino, might as well use it.  Either way, same question.  Would I want to run dominos across the grain of the 2x4 or with it?  I think with it but I defer to the experts.
 
There's no hard and fast rule but I automatically run the domino's parallel to the grain because it's a (floating) tenon and that's how they would be cut.
Tim
 
I am absolutely not an expert, but I am an avid user of the Domino.

If I were build this, I'd want the plywood to be a primary structural component as butt joints, even with Dominos, are not all that strong. I'd orient the 2X4s with the 4" side vertical. I'd use 4 tenons for each butt joint. I'd space tenons about every 12" to join the plywood to the 2X4s. The tenons would run with the grain of the 2X4s. I like to built "stout" so I'd add a lip to the 2X4s to add further support the plywood.

Sorry that I can't construct a picture of my build concept.
 
MahalaHomecraft said:
Bird - it's ok, I get exactly what you're saying.  Thanks for the tips.

Perfect opportunity to do some project build pics this is :)
 
MahalaHomecraft said:
Yeah I'll be sure to do it.  Im always super lazy about taking pictures but I'll put in the effort.

;D Same here.. I alway just want to get on with the job  [big grin]
 
We had a few sets of bunk beds over the years.  Probably the best was one used 2x6 (or you can use 2x8") for the side frames.  On the inside of the 2x6 long side frame, was a strip of wood a 2" x 2" about 4" down from the top that was attached by screws every 12" or so to the rail.  Those strips could then be used to support for either cross support boards (1" x 4") or a sheet of ply that could be laid onto (and into) the frame. 

Not sure how you are intending to build the boxes you mentioned, but, the above worked out great as the beds were easy to assemble/disassemble and by design reduced the size and weight for moving them about.  Just a thought.....
 
So the ceiling in the room this hunk is go8ng in us like 92 5/8" high.  So I think 2x4 framing is as much as I can get away with height wise.  The 4 will be vertical.  2' centers and 3/4" decking. 
 
MahalaHomecraft said:
So the ceiling in the room this hunk is go8ng in us like 92 5/8" high.  So I think 2x4 framing is as much as I can get away with height wise.  The 4 will be vertical.  2' centers and 3/4" decking.

As I have been reading this discussion, I kept wondering, 'What sized bed, or beds?'  I could not figure it out until this last post.  You mentioned the importance/limiting factor of ceiling height.  I think you are talking about bunk beds as in double decker.  I have no advice on how to answer your question, but I am sure it is important whether twin beds, single bed, queen size, king size or bunk bed type. from the answers you are getting, it seems the mental pictures are somewhat scattered as to what style and size you are talking about.  A single or twin beds would have different requirements than say a king sized bed.  The larger the bed, what are the weights of the people who are going to be in the bed. as for instance, my wife and i are very light weights.  I have some friends who are both over 200#'s.  I would think the frame requirements for the two different beds would be quite different.

I don't know the answers to the questions I have posted, but down the road, i do have an idea to build a couple of beds.  At that time, i will definitely be doing some in depth research.  In the meantime, i am peeking over your shoulder for future info. Also, I am just now (from this discussion) finding out about the importance of wood grain to domino direction for structural strength.  Something, even tho i have the 500, and so far have used it only for small projects where the direction of placement has been directed by the sizes of pieces to be joined.  With a bed, the placement takes on a new importance as far as overall strength. Thanks for the info that is coming out.
Tinker
 
This is actually gonna be a full over full bunk bed.  Most bunk beds are either twin over full or twin over twin, and between that and the height limitations, she decided to go custom.  I'll upload a couple pics of my sketchup plans when I'm home from snowboarding.
 
If these are to be full size beds, I put at least 2 cross member 2X4s in the frame to support the plywood.... sorta like a torsion box and then lay the plywood on top of the frame attached with Dominos. That structure should have enough strength to handle even a couple of frisky heavy adults.
 
so here's one to get an idea.  the plywood isn't drawn in.  let me know if anything more specific would be helpful[attachimg=1]
 

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I think the corner vertical 2x4's need to be beefed up, as in add one at each end to make an L corner type post.  At minimum, with the full bed size on top, I would make the vertical 2x6....  Others (or you) may have a better idea, or go with the design.....
 
Yes, this is definitely true.  I think for the posts on the stair side the 2x4s should be fine as they are what with the added support offered by the stair structure.  But on the other side I will definitely double up the posts and have the second ones running at a 90 to the first.  Does this sound about right?
 
I think dominoes would be great. 

You can drill the holes in the legs on a drill press.  But the holes in ends of the 70" long rails are another matter.

You could put a couple of small dominos for alignment and that would permit you to assemble and use the holes in the leg as a guide to drill the holes in the rails.  You'd need a very long drill bit of course but well worth it.

I've toyed with the idea of making these.  Makes me wish I had a longer jointer.  Pine boards flat enough even for kids furniture are hard to come by in these parts.  And my little 6" Rigid jointer is not the best with 6 and 7 foot long boards.  I'm going to give it a try one of these days though. 

 
Having raised 4 boys, and a few bunk beds along the way, the crude little sketch attached is how I would go about constructing the beds.

All the beds we used were 2x6 or 2x8 boards (pine). Rather than use the 2x4 uprights in your drawing, and adding another 2x4 at each corner to give you the "L" shape, I would go with 2x8 for optimum safety and support.  The upright supports should go at the end of the bed, not on the side.  Secondly, you definitely need to add two cross braces at each end.  I've shone the upper brace only in my quick sketch.

The uprights can use some long connector type bolts, or lag screws/bolts.  This to allow disassembly and getting to the room in pieces.  The cross braces can be mounted using wood screws.  The brace needs to be kinda mid-third of the way down to provide the structure support needed.

Unless you have a high ceiling, the steps up....once half way up, you will need to start bending over so as not to hit the ceiling with your head.  I would suggest a ladder at the bottom end, or at the side towards the bottom vertical support.  This would also allow each bed, if you wanted to add it, a sort of recessed headboard area to sit books, glasses (reading or water) and other miscellaneous stuff.

Just my thoughts....adapt if you see any benefits.....
 

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