Split Top Roubo Bench Build

[Tyler Ernsberger]

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I like the paint roller idea!!!

 

[iamnothim]

I like the paint roller idea!!!

Tyler,
Can't take credit for it.  That goes to Marc "The Wood Whisperererere" Spagnolo.
Another great tip from Spags:  Use panty hose to determine grain direction!

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[Gene Davis]

Why not dovetail the front face?  Looks pretty easy to do.

Leg vise screw?  I know those things Mr Marc used are sexy, but he probably got a deal.  Jord used a plain screw, which is least cost, Mr Billy the signmaker out in CA used the wood screw, bigger price, and David the Brit used tooling, at probably even more cost.

You can buy some nice hand tools with the money you'll save.  You gotta be doing this so as to do nice work with hand tools, otherwise you would just make an MFT thingy.

 

[iamnothim]

Why not dovetail the front face?  Looks pretty easy to do.

I probably will since I decided to lam 3 planks.

Leg vise screw?  I know those things Mr Marc used are sexy, but he probably got a deal.
You can buy some nice hand tools with the money you'll save.

That would be "Hand Tool". As in one.  I've just been to Lie Nielson and eBay for a Stanley No2.
Anyway.  I listened to David and he mentioned Lake Erie Toolworks.  I gave them a serious look.  They are about $200 less than the Benchcrafted.  That said the Benchcrafted leg vise has the crisscross mechanism.  If I went traditional I'd have to fabricate the "pin" board for the leg vise.  Not trivial.  The Crisscross works much better.

David also gave the nod to Benchcrafted

http://vimeo.com/72064391

 

[Gene Davis]

The pin board looks easy, too, and your new press will knock out the holes in nothing flat.

Chopping the mortises for the leg vise x mounts will be as much work or more than doing the pin board in the chop.  And you get to do a through mortise with wedges.

Neanderthal woodworking should't be a machinery show.

 

[bobberner]

Did they ever say what was wrong with your saw? Great customer service from Festool!

 

[iamnothim]

The pin board looks easy, too, and your new press will knock out the holes in nothing flat.

Chopping the mortises for the leg vise x mounts will be as much work or more than doing the pin board in the chop.  And you get to do a through mortise with wedges.

Neanderthal woodworking should't be a machinery show.

"Neanderthal"  I resemble that remark.

IMO: If Achimedes could have made a screw out of 303SS he would have.

Another thing that nixed the wood screw for me is the wheel has a much smaller profile and I don't want to walk into the handle. [eek]

 

[iamnothim]

Did they ever say what was wrong with your saw? Great customer service from Festool!

Nope.
Said the problem was with the blade. [blink]

BTW:  If you build a WayneTainer use an Irwin step bit to drill the holes in the plastic.

 

[iamnothim]

Yup.  I was right.

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[iamnothim]

A friend gave me a couple of rusted planes.
A Stanley Bailey No. 4 and a Stanley No. 2

While waiting for the glue to dry, I removed the rust on a wire wheel.
There is some pitting on the bed.
The knobs and totes are a work in progress.

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[iamnothim]

I worked pretty much all day on the planes and I'm happy with where they are.
I went to the local stone fabricator and they gave me a nice hunk of polished rock.  I watered it down and went through a progression of grits on the beds and the back of the plane irons.  Then I put the irons on the Tormek and got them mighty sharp.  They looked like the block plane below before I started.

I really like the No. 2 but it's going to take me a while to dial in.  The No. 4 should be the ticket for the top of the slab.

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[rljatl]

This is fantastic stuff.  Available at auto parts stores, Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc...
Evapo-Rust

Replace the blade and chip breaker with these: PM-V11™
Stanley/Record Cap Irons made by Veritas®

Free shipping this week at Lee Valley.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

A friend gave me a couple of rusted planes.
A Stanley Bailey No. 4 and a Stanley No. 2

While waiting for the glue to dry, I removed the rust on a wire wheel.
There is some pitting on the bed.
The knobs and totes are a work in progress.

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Thats a good friend!!  I have never used a no2 but my Stanley no3 is my favorite plane.  Thanks for the documentation of your project,  its very exciting seeing your progress.  I hope to do a bench like yours in the future.

 

[iamnothim]

This is fantastic stuff.  Available at auto parts stores, Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc...
Evapo-Rust

Replace the blade and chip breaker with these: PM-V11™
Stanley/Record Cap Irons made by Veritas®

Free shipping this week at Lee Valley.

[member=18283]RLJ-Atl[/member]
I looked at EvapoRust on Amazon but decided to hold because I had some Navel Jelly left.  Will it get rid of the black remnants?  I'll order some anyway.

I also looked at the Pinnacle IBC plane irons but not Veritaas.  Any plusses or minuses?
I don't think IBC has a No. 2
Lastly, I'm going to order a Rabbet Block plane.  I was going to get Lie Nielsen.  Should I look at Veritas?

Thanks for the input.
(Everybody !)

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

This is fantastic stuff.  Available at auto parts stores, Harbor Freight, Amazon, etc...
Evapo-Rust

Replace the blade and chip breaker with these: PM-V11™
Stanley/Record Cap Irons made by Veritas®

Free shipping this week at Lee Valley.

[member=18283]RLJ-Atl[/member]
I looked at EvapoRust on Amazon but decided to hold because I had some Navel Jelly left.  Will it get rid of the black remnants?  I'll order some anyway.

I also looked at the Pinnacle IBC plane irons but not Veritaas.  Any plusses or minuses?
I don't think IBC has a No. 2
Lastly, I'm going to order a Rabbet Block plane.  I was going to get Lie Nielsen.  Should I look at Veritas?

Thanks for the input.
(Everybody !)

You cant go wrong with either Veritas or Lie Neilsen.    I own quite a few Lie Neilsen planes and think they are awesome tools.  I actually use my LN 60 Block Plane so much I have to let it cool down bc the front knob gets so hot.  Lol

 

[iamnothim]

You cant go wrong with either Veritas or Lie Neilsen.    I own quite a few Lie Neilsen planes and think they are awesome tools.  I actually use my LN 60 Block Plane so much I have to let it cool down bc the front knob gets so hot.  Lol

Yup.  I have that plane.  It's a winner.

 

[rljatl]

Without trying both, I believe the Veritas rabbit block plane has a slewed blade which I think would work better than the Lie Nielsen version, but maybe limit its versatility?  However, if you already have the standard LN block plane, the Veritas skewed rabbit version would be the way to go.

I am not familiar with the IBC plane irons.  I have the Pm-V11 blades and Veritas chip breakers in a ~100 year old Bed Rock number 7 and a number 5 Bed Rock jack plane.  The thick chip breaker really makes a difference.

The important thing is, the Veritas chip breaker/blade combo is sized specifically for those old planes.  Some other manufacturers require you to file open the mouth of the plane some.  I did not want to do that.

Also, the shape of the top part of the Veritas blade looks more like the original Stanley blade.  Hock blades, for example, are squared off rather than mimicking the cut off corners the originals have.

 

[iamnothim]

Without trying both, I believe the Veritas rabbit block plane has a slewed blade which I think would work better than the Lie Nielsen version, but maybe limit its versatility?  However, if you already have the standard LN block plane, the Veritas skewed rabbit version would be the way to go.

I am not familiar with the IBC plane irons.  I have the Pm-V11 blades and Veritas chip breakers in a ~100 year old Bed Rock number 7 and a number 5 Bed Rock jack plane.  The thick chip breaker really makes a difference.

The important thing is, the Veritas chip breaker/blade combo is sized specifically for those old planes.  Some other manufacturers require you to file open the mouth of the plane some.  I did not want to do that.

Also, the shape of the top part of the Veritas blade looks more like the original Stanley blade.  Hock blades, for example, are squared off rather than mimicking the cut off corners the originals have.

Thanks for the tips!

I ordered a cap iron/iron combo in PM-V11 from Lee Valley for the No. 4 Stanley.  It's cool that I can move it to the No.5 easily.  I decided to stick with the stock blade for the No 2 because my hands are too big for it and my L-N adj block will work fine.

You comment on the skew planes made a lot of sense.  I decided on the L-N right hand skew block plane for cleaning up the large Roubo tenons.

This might be of interest:
I sent the No. 2, No. 4, and No.6 off to Table-Saw_Tom to be resurfaced.  $30, $40, $65 respectively.  I learned about him on LumberJocks. Tolerances range from .0005 to .0015

Here is the before pics of 2 & 4.  I'll post after....

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[iamnothim]

Bought way too much stuff today.
I added a L-N low angle jack and a Festool 492610 - Router Template System, MFS400

Oh look.....  It's the UPS man with my TS-75 replacement.  Yah!

 

[iamnothim]

TS-75 update.
Straight away.... the new saw has a lot more power, cuts cleaner and quicker.
Finally