Stripped screw head on Domino height adjustment stop
- Thread starter KB29
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Yeah, if every attempt fails including using a screw extractor or a dremel to cut a groove or notch, I'd break the handle to reach the screw. But before it reaches that state, I'll try to preserve as much of the hardware as I can, and that means cutting up the handle would be the last resort.
After all, I might be able to find a temporary bolt among my hardware bins than the plastic handle to get back into the game in the interim.
After all, I might be able to find a temporary bolt among my hardware bins than the plastic handle to get back into the game in the interim.
Cheese
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So, I was wrong on the availability of a LH drill bit. [tongue] I NEVER thought Amazon would offer the product, years ago that was strictly a specialty drill from one of the tooling houses. [jawdrop]
However, there was a reason I originally suggested a sharpened center punch...as that does not remove any additional material from the screw head. So that method is the easiest & quickest way to loosen the screw and you probably already own the needed tool.
If that doesn't work then you need to take further steps but realize that the other mechanical methods can start to destroy the remaining screw head material if they don't work and suddenly, you have less material to work with.
However, there was a reason I originally suggested a sharpened center punch...as that does not remove any additional material from the screw head. So that method is the easiest & quickest way to loosen the screw and you probably already own the needed tool.
If that doesn't work then you need to take further steps but realize that the other mechanical methods can start to destroy the remaining screw head material if they don't work and suddenly, you have less material to work with.
PaulMarcel
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montyss said:
In Sedge's video about the hack, he specifically says he's using a Poxidrive screwdriver. I have the parts in my MMC cart, but haven't completed the order yet to do the hack
Crazyraceguy
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ChuckS said:
Not really Chuck. They depend on the taper of the corkscrew looking tip to do the work. IMHO, they should be avoided. Most of the time they just wedge things open and actually put more pressure on the threads. With a left-handed drill bit, sized more for removing the head (rather than drilling own the middle of the screw itself) the pressure is relieved. Often, pliers will unscrew them easily.
Of course, this is all about screws with damaged heads, a cross-threaded, galled, or corroded screw is totally different.
My first experience with left-handed drill was in a machine shop, where I worked, fresh out of school.
Back then (1980 or so) it was a bit more difficult. McMaster-Carr, Grainger, have always had that kind of thing, but Amazon is the go-to in recent years.
ChuckS said:
I was gonna say yes to this- you're thinking correctly about what they do. The hope is that long before you've actually removed the screw head, the bit will catch, and actually back the screw out for you.
CRG is right tho, the drill bits always seem to work better than the extractors. Paradoxical, eh? The drill bit extracts, and the extractor just drills. ??? If I WANTED to remove the head, I'd use the extractor.
Crazyraceguy
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tjbnwi said:
I have never even touched that screw. Why would you need to? It just retains the lever onto a splined shaft, there is no force against the screw at all.
Michael Kellough
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It’s unfortunate the screw was damaged.
Probably with a Phillips driver and excessive (unnecessary) force.
That screw has no effect on fence slippage.
Probably with a Phillips driver and excessive (unnecessary) force.
That screw has no effect on fence slippage.
Are we talking about the one where some people have to re-clock the splines, to get more bite? Because I'm one of them- and it DEFINITELY affects the fence slippage. Mine was off a tooth from the factory, and it just barely held the fence in place.
Crazyraceguy said:
Exactly. That's why I can't understand what replacing the DF500 handles with third-party ones would do. Something is wrong with the fence or the base if constant adjustments are required for your DF500.
In the past 12 years of owning my DF500, I've adjusted the angle fence handle only once and it never needs another tweak. The factory setting for the other handle has been perfect from day 1. I also have reset the handles for two other machines I had access to, and they were fine with no further needs for adjustments.
If you need to adjust the Festool factory handle(s) from time to time, the problem could be due to excessive force when you turn them.
Michael Kellough
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tsmi243 said:
That screw simply holds the lever on the spline. You had to remove the screw to move the lever counterclockwise in order to make the clamp screw tighter. You didn’t even need to put the little screw back in to do that but it does keep the lever from falling off.
tjbnwi
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Crazyraceguy said:
If I recall correctly the shat that lever goes on is a hex, not splined.
One of the Dominos the lever was off by one flat new. The lever would hit the fence before the fence was secure. I clocked it the one flat.
Breaking the brass nut, I’m at times a simpleton idiot, pretty sure the issue is me over tightening the lever.
Tom
So an update, or non-update from the original issue:
I ordered the Screw Grab from Amazon but it’s been delayed a few times and isn’t
expected to be here until Friday, now. It looked like this was the least invasive method to try first. JB Weld to a screwdriver is tempting, though.
Any experience I have had with the regular “extractors” has shown them to be useless junk.
The left hand screw driver also seems like a good solution, provided I could get a small enough bit that would bite into the screw. If it didn’t work though, the head would be damaged beyond saving in any other way and I’d be forced to cut the handle and source a replacement.
To answer one question I saw, yes it is a pozidrive head. I first tried a Philips head screw driver not knowing this, which probably began the stripping out process.
Unfortunate still, it probably only needs another half to 3/4 turn before I can get it with pliers to do the rest.
I’ll update with any luck…this obviously struck more of a chord than I’d expected. Thanks, ya’ll.
I ordered the Screw Grab from Amazon but it’s been delayed a few times and isn’t
expected to be here until Friday, now. It looked like this was the least invasive method to try first. JB Weld to a screwdriver is tempting, though.
Any experience I have had with the regular “extractors” has shown them to be useless junk.
The left hand screw driver also seems like a good solution, provided I could get a small enough bit that would bite into the screw. If it didn’t work though, the head would be damaged beyond saving in any other way and I’d be forced to cut the handle and source a replacement.
To answer one question I saw, yes it is a pozidrive head. I first tried a Philips head screw driver not knowing this, which probably began the stripping out process.
Unfortunate still, it probably only needs another half to 3/4 turn before I can get it with pliers to do the rest.
I’ll update with any luck…this obviously struck more of a chord than I’d expected. Thanks, ya’ll.
Michael Kellough
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ChuckS said:
Sometimes they "just work", and sometimes they make it worse.
For something like this I'd use a Dremel and the 1" diameter metal cutting blade to make a small slot in the head. Won't matter if the handle gets a little slot too. Then use a small flat blade screwdriver (small enough that it doesn't extend past the screw) and back-'er-out.
