Suggestions for door lock/latch hole repair

[Rick Herrick]

I need a quick solution for my daughter and her upcoming baby.  The planned nursery has not had a locking door as the previous tenant had ruined it.  She needs the door in place now.  The landlord had purchased a replacement and had someone try to install it but seems they had even less talent than myself.  Since the latch hole is pretty much useless, I plan to patch it for now (will paint it for the time being) and just turn the door around and drill all new holes for door set, hinges etc on the other vertical side.

My question is what is the best way to patch both of these holes (mainly the knob hole)?  I could try one of the sheetrock tricks and just stuff it with paper and fill in with mud, sand, etc.  Is there a better way?  This door is a 30" door and for some reason it is much more expensive than the 32" or 36" version.  Since time is important, I need to patch this for now and get it painted for her.

 

[tjbnwi]

Turning the slab around is probably not an option. The lock side has a lock block glued in it to support the lock. Squeeze the door on the other side, if you can squeeze it, there is no lock block.

For the bolt hole, bore it 1”, glue in a dowel, redrill with a jig.

The face hole center needs to be 1-3/8” or 1-3/4” to the center from the edge of the door, 2-1/8” in diameter. If it is one of those backseat numbers the rest appears to be cosmetic.

Congrats on the baby and good luck.

Tom

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thanks Tom.  I checked for the lock block.  It feels solid where the lock would go (on the opposite side) but I can press in a couple inches below and above that area.  So my guess is there is a lock block on both sides?  My wife suggested that might be normal.  If you buy a slab door, you may need to use either side?  I guess I will find out.  If there is a block there, I could use that plug to patch the other side.  As far as repairing the latch side, should I have to, my only option is a steady hand and a 1" forstner bit.

 

[Bob D.]

I don't think you will find the block on the hinge side of the door. There is no need so they are not going to waste material where it's not needed.

Your door looks to be faced with MDF judging from the way it broke out next to the hole bored off-center for the bolt which fractured the skin of the door.

I would suggest backing up the door on either side with some scraps clamped on to help keep it from blowing out any more than it has. It might be easier to use a router with a mortise jig and cut a mortise in steps coming in from the edge of the door. Then make a filler piece to fit. If the door is beveled, you'll need to compensate for that with your jig so you are square to the door and not the beveled edge else you will come out the face of the door with your bit be it a router bit or a drill bit.

This would be a good application for a portable drill stand like the Woodpeckers, UJK, Rockler, and others to guide the drill but it can be done by hand of course or make yourself a simple L shaped jig with a guide hole the size of your Forstner bit shaft and clap it to the side of the door.

 

[Cheese]

Just make sure you clean up the holes to ensure they’re round, smooth & straight. I make plugs with hole saws because the hole saws come in 1/16” increments. If you don’t want the 1/4” arbor hole, just plug it with a 1/4” dowel.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Since I would assume the hinge mortices are already there, I wouldn't bother with swapping sides, just plug/patch what you have. I would cut the holes bigger with a router/jig and make plugs to glue in. Might be better to make a stepped hole, like a rabbet cut into one side to make the hole bigger on one side. This gives a good registration point when gluing the plug (with matching flange) Then fill with wood filler/autobody filler of choice and paint.

I did a few of these in my daughter's house when she first moved in and did some updating. The old knobs where non-standard by today's measurements and the new ones would not work. It's more practical to make a jig when you have more than one to do, but it really isn't that time consuming for just one and you get a much nicer/stronger job.

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks Tom.  I checked for the lock block.  It feels solid where the lock would go (on the opposite side) but I can press in a couple inches below and above that area.  So my guess is there is a lock block on both sides?  My wife suggested that might be normal.  If you buy a slab door, you may need to use either side?  I guess I will find out.  If there is a block there, I could use that plug to patch the other side.  As far as repairing the latch side, should I have to, my only option is a steady hand and a 1" forstner bit.

Look at the top or botom of the slab, there usually will be labeling LB with an arrow pointing to the side with the lock block.

Tom

 

[Rick Herrick]

I went to HD this morning to hopefully find a door and scare up some missing hardware and dowel.  They had a couple of these doors but only the 32/36".  I asked him about the LB and he said most of these slab doors do come with the LB on both sides.  To me it feels like its stiffer in that area on both sides.  Below are pictures of the top.  Hoping the '' means the block on on both side?

 

[Michael Kellough]

"Hoping the '' means the block on on both side?"

I would think so.

With a skin that thin you should be able to tell by rapping your knuckle around the area of the block.