TS55 vs. TS75?

[Handyman Mike]

I have the TS 75 which I use regularly to straight line rip various thicknesses of hardwood. I couldn't ask for a better setup. I've thought more than once of getting a 55 for lighter cuts and sheet goods but honestly, I just don't want to deal with the kerf issues on the splinter strip.

kerf issues on the splinter strip?  [huh]

 

[tbellemare]

But why would they need to be any longer for the 75 than the 55?

The sole plate is  is longer so it needs more runway entering and exiting the cut.

Tom

 

[epicxt]

Older blades have different kerf thicknesses between the 75 and 55 and can mess with the splinter strip. I've ran into this using the steel blade on my 75 and it took off more of my splinter strip. Only about 1/32" but enough to be annoying.

 

[Handyman Mike]

But why would they need to be any longer for the 75 than the 55?

The sole plate is  is longer so it needs more runway entering and exiting the cut.

Tom

Thanks

 

[Handyman Mike]

Older blades have different kerf thicknesses between the 75 and 55 and can mess with the splinter strip. I've ran into this using the steel blade on my 75 and it took off more of my splinter strip. Only about 1/32" but enough to be annoying.

Thanks

 

[grbmds]

All it comes down to is trying to determine what you are going to use the saw for and whether you will have a periodic or frequent need for the extra depth and/or power of the TS75. I personally don't need either. I've found the power of the TS55REQ to be sufficient for anything I've encountered so far. As for depth, you can always make two cuts, one on each side to cut through wood that is over the max depth of the TS55. While this might not be convenient and frequently having to do this might mean you should stick with the TS75, if you only occasionally or rarely need this depth of cut, I don't see why the TS55 wouldn't work. I don't think, however, that it's so easy to switch back and forth between more than one saw, especially when one is the TS55 and the other is the TS75. You will find it difficult (probably not impossible) to match up the plastic splinter guards on the rails switching between the 2. I went back to the TS 55 and found I needed to either replace or remove and reapply the splinterguard and recut them to make it as accurate as I wanted it to be. So, for me, I found I needed to make a decision and live with it. There are always ways around situations which you only rarely encounter. Either are great sawsy though.

 

[Oldwood]

I have a TS75 & use it to strait line rip a lot of hardwoods. I would not want a saw with less horse power for this job & would be quite happy with more. I do wonder about the 220 volt saws as opposed to the 110 volt saws in North America. Anyone who had a table-saw that could be run on 110 or 220 volt knows that if you want to get more power you wire it for 220 volt. I have not used a TS 55 but I don't find the TS75 cumbersome at all........... comes down to what you have become comfortable with I guess. I am not trying to suggest that the TS55 won't rip hardwood as there are a lot of people doing that it is just that when you have 2500 bd ft of 12 ft lumber to straight rip you want to get at it & do it in good time. I have pushed the TS75 hard enough that the overload has kicked in & shut down the saw. Just the once mind you now I know where the edge is I stay back a bit from there. Of course if you are not trying to make a living at it or only cut sheet stock I am sure the TS55 would be the answer. I do use the panther blade & the toe in is properly adjusted it is just a matter of how hard I can push the saw.

FWIW

Gerry

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

The Festool TS 55REQ motor is 10 amps, 120v of 1200 watts at 2,000-5,200 RPMs and weighs 9.92 lbs. costs $585.00
The Festool TS 75 motor is 13 amps, 120v of 1600 watts at 1,350-3,550 RPMs and weighs 13.6 lbs. costs $695.00
The Mafell MT55 motor is 15 amps, 120v of 1400 watts at 3,600-6,250 RPMs and weighs 10.5 lbs. costs $771.00
The latter is what I own, presently, having previously owned both the TS 55REQ and the TS 75. I find that the Mafell MT55cc is perfect for me and my needs, but may not be the best saw for someone else. Budget, application, and the desire to fit everything into the Festool system are considerations.  IME, the TS 55REQ is great for cabinetry, the TS 75 is OK for cabinetry - but better for thicker hardwoods, and the Mafell MT55cc is great for both cabinetry and at least 8/4 hardwoods with one pass. (I haven't tried to cut anything thicker, yet. The Mafell has a few more bells and whistles, that you can find out on your own.)  In the end, I don't think that you can make a bad choice with either of the three.  These are the best that money can buy.  

 

[wow]

Not to hijack this thread, but is there really only ONE Maffell dealer in the whole USA?

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Yes, David at Timberwolf Tools,  in Maine.  He's a good and reliable man.  I have three Mafell tools and love each one of them.  Mafell does appear to put minimal effort into marketing, especially in the USA.  Marketing and service are Festool USA's real service pluses. It is hard to find any business that does as good a job. Another real selling point to buy Featool.

 

[Handyman Mike]

The Festool TS 55REQ motor is 10 amps, 120v of 1200 watts at 2,000-5,200 RPMs and weighs 9.92 lbs. costs $585.00
The Festool TS 75 motor is 13 amps, 120v of 1600 watts at 1,350-3,550 RPMs and weighs 13.6 lbs. costs $695.00
The Mafell MT55 motor is 15 amps, 120v of 1400 watts at 3,600-6,250 RPMs and weighs 10.5 lbs. costs $771.00
...

The Mafell is a very impressive machine, but its cost is a problem for me, compared to the Festool saws. The price of the Mafell doesn't include a track. If you add in the 1.6 m track the cost is about $900 before shipping.

I had to think hard about my budget before drawing the line at the cost of the TS75. I have similar regrets about the Mafell P1cc jig saw, but $680 has too much of an ouch factor for me.

 

[rljatl]

Consider this too:

1. Cutting depth while on a rail.
2. 45 degree angle cutting depth while on a rail.
3. Will the Mafell's 15 amps work with a Festool Dust collector without tripping a breaker?  (I don't know the answer to this, but it might be worth checking into for someone considering this saw to use with the Festool system.)

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Yes, Mike, I agree. That's what I'm saying. And, if add the Aerofix, the long rails and the long hose with the package, then you are well over a grand! Tough nut! It all starts to make Festool look inexpensive.

 

[tbellemare]

I don't understand how 15A at 120V (or even 110V) are 1400W?

Tom

EDIT:
I come up with 11.67A (or 12.73A). I must be missing something?

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Consider this too:

1. Cutting depth while on a rail.
2. 45 degree angle cutting depth while on a rail.
3. Will the Mafell's 15 amps work with a Festool Dust collector without tripping a breaker?  (I don't know the answer to this, but it might be worth checking into for someone considering this saw to use with the Festool system.)

Yes, it works fine with the CT26...although the Mafell vac is actually a Starmix...which is superior. (On the wish list.)

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

I don't understand how 15A at 120V (or even 110V) are 1400W?

Tom

EDIT:
I come up with 11.67A (or 12.73A). I must be missing something?

Tom, this is what I got off the Timberwolf webiste.  The 15 amps was from a Google search.  I don't understand this stuff.  That's Chris Christofferson's area. All that I know, is that the saw is great.

 

[Handyman Mike]

Yes, it works fine with the CT26...although the Mafell vac is actually a Starmix...which is superior. (On the wish list.)

Where would you even get one in the US?

 

[Handyman Mike]

Mafell's own literature says 1400W, with no mention of amperage. I assume the usual formula applies, unless German electrons are different, so the 15 amp figure sounds like a mistake. NYC Tiny Shop, go take a look at the label, I'm dying here!  [wink]

 

[NYC Tiny Shop]

Mike, like I said, I got the amperage from a search. My shop is packed up until Monday. I can take out the saw and see what's listed on it, then. Please remind me.

 

[Daver]

I assume the usual formula applies, unless German electrons are different.

You've answered your own question. They are.

;D