TS75 not cutting right on line after changing and setting up new rubber edge

[andytoh]

Hi, I just replaced the rubber strip on my guiderail and trimmed it per standard set-up procedure, and am noticing that my saw is now cutting about 1/64" shy off the freshly cut rubber edge.  This was with the same blace, but I've experienced this happening too when I switch blades.  Am also noticing that my cut seems to be veering slightly more off the line towards the end of the cut even though the guide rail edge is sitting right on it.  Does anyone have the same experience and how have you managed around this?

 

[greg mann]

Check to make sure the saw base has no play on the runner. There are adjusters on your saw base that you can use to take out any wiggle between the saw and the rail. It should slide smoothly but with no noticeable play when adjusted correctly. HTH

 

[Brice Burrell]

Because the blade is skewed or toed-in, adjusting the depth of the blade will move it slightly closer or farther from the splinterguard. The proper procedure to trim the splinterguard is set the saw to full depth, I'm assuming you did that. When the blade depth is set less than full depth there could be a slight gap like you're experiencing. This is a little more pronounced with the great depth of cut on the TS75 compared to the TS55. 

 

[AlexThePalex]

Because the blade is skewed or toed-in,

Why is the blade skewed? What the use of that? Is it still possible to get perfect 90 degree cuts?

 

[Frank-Jan]

It's only very slightly skewed, (if the saw is plunged, and the front teeth are toughing the wood, the rear of the blade should have the thickness of a piece of paper room) (as described on page 12 of Rick Christopherson's manual: link.

Rick states it improves the cutting.

Allthough I haven't experienced the cuts not being 90?, it does give trouble it you try to use the parallel fence from the base-side of the saw. (It just won't work.

 

[andytoh]

yeah, I've adjusted the cams for snug fit, and trimmed the splinter guard with full depth without success.  Just cannot seem to get a square cut.  the cut starts off on the line straight, but then veers off the line towards the end of the cut.  I even left the saw at the end of the cut to make sure I had not moved the guiderail and could not believe how far the cut was off the line.  I guess using a festool, you're kinda spoilt with the desired accuracy.  Right now it is so bad that I have to make like 3 or four cuts to get to the line by eyeballing the gap and then adjusting the guiderail - not a pleasant experience.

 

[woodguy7]

Just a thought, when you trim a new splinter strip, you should attach an additional rail at the end you are starting at & then cut most of the way through.  Before cutting through the end you should move the additional rail to the other end.  The purpose of this is to allow the saw a straight passage without the cams coming off the rail before the cut is finished & the saw coming off the rail squint.
Sorry if i have not explained this properly.

Woodguy

 

[Brice Burrell]

yeah, I've adjusted the cams for snug fit, and trimmed the splinter guard with full depth without success.  Just cannot seem to get a square cut.  the cut starts off on the line straight, but then veers off the line towards the end of the cut.  I even left the saw at the end of the cut to make sure I had not moved the guiderail and could not believe how far the cut was off the line.  I guess using a festool, you're kinda spoilt with the desired accuracy.  Right now it is so bad that I have to make like 3 or four cuts to get to the line by eyeballing the gap and then adjusting the guiderail - not a pleasant experience.

What your describing sounds like you somehow have the splinterguard cut on an angle along the length of the guide rail. I'd pull the splinterguard, reattach it and trying cutting it again.

 

[L2theP]

i had a problem similar to yours when i had a dull blade on my saw, the begining of the cut would be perfect and then i would go down the rail and by the end i would have a 1/8" discrepancy when cutting through a piece of 5/4 mahogany.  Then i changed the blade to a panther and it took off more of my splinter guard  [mad].  So i went ahead and replaced the splinter guard on my rails and encountered another problem, after installing the new splinter guards and making the initial cut i lift up my rail and the ends peeled right off (i cleaned the rail after removal of original guard and made sure it was proper for new application) i'm looking to pick up the new clear guards next week to give those another go.  Hopefully they will stick this time.

Make sure your blade is sharp and if it is there is a possibility it went out of toe (that's what i was told by a service rep) in my case it was a dull blade and very dense wood.

hope this helps.