Under sink cabinet

[ZeesWoodShop]

Just finished this odd sized cabinet to fit under an existing wall hanging sink. Trying to decide how my pricing compares to others out there. I charged right at $300, had about 4 hours of labor and $55 in materials. 


IMG-20120716-00280 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr

 

[dmckoy]

Nice work.  Does the price include finishing, delivery, and installation?  If not, the price seems a good margin for my area of U.S.

 

[ZeesWoodShop]

Thanks, I forgot to mention it includes finishing, instillation and delivery

 

[tiralie]

Thanks, I forgot to mention it includes finishing, instillation and delivery

that's a good price. Are you clear coating it?
Is that epoxy in the hinge hole? Did you re-drill it to fit it?
Tim

 

[ZeesWoodShop]

Was going to clear lacquer it. It is epoxy in the hole, normally use the LR32 for hinge placement, trying a jig I made for my drill press and some how it shifted about 5mm (did not make me happy). I really need to get a Mini-Press.

 

[tiralie]

Was going to clear lacquer it. It is epoxy in the hole, normally use the LR32 for hinge placement, trying a jig I made for my drill press and some how it shifted about 5mm (did not make me happy). I really need to get a Mini-Press.

Yes, they are nice. They sometimes come up on Craigs list or eBay for a good price.
The Blum Ecodrill or Hetich 47307 Hinge Drilling Jig version work well and are cheaper. I like the Hetich as you can change the offset.
Tim
[attachthumb=#]

 

[Jonhilgen]

If the four hours includes finish work and installation, then yes, its a good price imho.

Jon

Tim, I missed an excellent chance at scoring an ecodrill for 100.00 bucks on Craigslist...won't happen again, I assure you.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Sommerfeld Tools sells the same thing, foolproof, Eric

 

[tjbnwi]

I use the CMT boring jig. One spindle to drive. Head can be changed for various manufactures hinges.

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-CMT333-03-Universal-Boring-System/sim/B0017Q1WYO/2

Tom

 

[tiralie]

I use the CMT boring jig. One spindle to drive. Head can be changed for various manufactures hinges.

Tom:
I always forget about the (CMT) one, thanks for the heads up (again). It's a nice design, never used it but it looks like you could rip through a bunch of doors with that.

If the four hours includes finish work and installation, then yes, its a good price imho.

I would quote twice that...I really can't (don't want to) compete with HD, or some of the Bath design outlets.

Tim, I missed an excellent chance at scoring an ecodrill for 100.00 bucks on Craigslist...won't happen again, I assure you.

Jon:
Just to clarify, I was referring to second hand Mini-Presses when I was saying they can be had at a good price on CL or eBay. They can be a bit pricey new.
It's good you were able to see  an Ecodrill on CL. Never ceases to amaze me what folks have on there.
You may or may not know that there are several versions of that ecodrill. You can buy it with 5mm bits for push in or with the standard for screws. I think there is another version, can't remember right now.
I would ask the seller how many holes and what material the majority of those holes were made with. Melamine dulls those bits quickly, and I suspect that most of the cost is in the bits.

Tim

 

[Captainwrinkles]

I had serious intentions to buy one of these (CMT or Blum) hinge boring jigs until i came across this video online

Topfscharniere: Unschlagbar praktisch  

Fast forward to about 1:10 to see the jig that is used.

It uses a OF1010 which i already have a 35mm drill/routerbit and a 40mm collar which i now have  [wink] Its foolproof.......almost.
Unless something gets caught between the fence and the door edge. Its faster, easier, smarter and cheaper  [big grin]

Benn

 

[tjbnwi]

Unless your using clip in cups you still have to drill the 2 other holes 2.5mm or 8mm. The CMT takes care of all of the above including being able to adjust for the 1mm backset differance between Blum and Salice. If I have to do Grass hinges I just swap out the head.

Nice cabinet, I think with the install and finish you under valued it $100.00-$150.00

Tom

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I just used this set. Easy, Cheap and worked perfect. It will hold me off until I get the LR32 system. As far as under valuing… If you are making money, enjoy the building part and happy with what you are getting then good. I would charge about the same thing but understand some might want to charge higher. Better to have the job then price yourself out of it. There are people I know that would charge more and sometimes get it but I would be at your price point and end up with more work from the same customer. I prefer the steady income over trying to get top dollar off of each job and might not get it, although I wish I could do that and sometimes it works out that I get a job and make a killing.

http://www.amazon.com/Euro-Tools-Concealed-Hinge-Boring/dp/B003CLKRO8/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_1

 

[Vindingo]

The price seems about right.  Any higher and I would feel obligated to remake the door. I have made the same mistake before and filled the hole with a wooden plug from a hole saw.  Orient the grain in the same direction and it almost goes away.  For two holes, I would just make the marks and free hand it. 

As Tim mentioned; I have found that if you build anything that looks remotely similar to something found at HD, regardless of material or build quality, most people will undervalue your work.  Same goes for Ikea-esque pieces.  Those factories probably pay the same for 4 sheets (if not more) of plywood that you do for one, tough to compete.     

 

[rnt80]

I use the Rockler jig to drill my cup holes. It is relatively cheap and has worked well for me. While it doesn't drill the screw holes that only takes a few seconds. Once I'm done drilling the cup hole I place a hinge in the hole and use a self-centering bit to drill the two holes. It all goes pretty quickly.

 

[ZeesWoodShop]

Wow thanks to every one for all the feedback.

I really like the idea of 1010 jig since I already have the 1010 and 35mm bit from the LR32, may look for a 40 mm busing and give that a try. I have been watching craigslist for Minipress or Ecodrill nothing good yet.

I have only been open for about a year, fluctuating between part time and full time as the work on our farm fluctuates. Hoping in the next couple years to start changing the farm from vegetable production to a winery as our grapes start maturing which will leave more time for the wood shop.  Right now I build some cabinets and do short runs of moulding and a shocking number of end grain chopping blocks and what ever else looks profitable.  

I am still working out pricing.  I live in kind of a strange area, It is pretty economically depressed but there are people with a lot of money here.  Its not unusual to see some one at the John Deere dealer drive up in a old beater pickup and pay cash for a $300,000 combine.      

 

[ZeesWoodShop]

I really like General Finish stuff, got the second coat on and waiting for it to dry.  Any one else using a 1050 VR? I am still playing with my set up, first two coats with the 1.8mm tip seemed like the droplet size was bigger than I like, next two coats will be 1.3mm. I love being able to turn it down so there is no over spray. 


IMG-20120718-00288 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr


IMG-20120718-00290 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr

 

[jakiiski]

As Tim mentioned; I have found that if you build anything that looks remotely similar to something found at HD, regardless of material or build quality, most people will undervalue your work.  Same goes for Ikea-esque pieces.  Those factories probably pay the same for 4 sheets (if not more) of plywood that you do for one, tough to compete.       

I really have to concur here on the pricing of the materials. I once looked at the stuff that came from Ikea my wife had bought. It was a small shelf/storage unit made out of rather nice birch ply. The whole thing cost a lot less than a sheet of ply (of only BB/WG quality at my local hardware stores) plus of course it had all the screws and machining done. There's no way I can make the same kind of thing for that price as I can't even get the materials. Just me, but personally, I think there's something wrong in the picture if someone can get the materials for that much cheaper than a private person. Pretty much defeats the purpose of manufacturing anything here...  :'(

 

[ZeesWoodShop]

It really is tricky to try to compete with big box stuff, most around here want stuff now and cheaper than HD. I do a lot of odd ball stuff like this under sink cabinet that had to fit under a sink where the HO did not want to replace the sink, so I built a cabinet to fit. They are not as profitable as slamming out a kitchen but work is work i guess.


IMG-20120604-00040 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr


IMG-20120801-00036 by TheEvillOnes, on Flickr