Using a FESTOOL router With trend hinge jig

[bopperontbay]

That would do it footstool didn't realise you could get a 13mm cutter.
Having not used the jig for a few years I have been using it all week and must say I love it there are a few problems like the slight tear ou t on the exit cut but I could just use a thin sacrificial piece on the edge of the door to avoid this.

The house I have been working at has very twisted casings and the arcgitarves are too close to the edge on some doors too use the jig 100% correctly but it marks the casing and just needs finishing with a chisel or freehand router but the heights are always spot on with the jig and it makes the job so easy not much thinking needed.

The worktop jig is excellent and if you buy the offset scriber for the jig it makes very out of square joints very easy to do you just place the jig on you mark without the bushes  and bobs your uncle.

Most of my trend cutters  were once my dads and are 10/15 years old some older  i just get them sharpend so can't really comment about the quality of new trend cutters but the rota tip replaceable cutters for the worktop jig has saved me a absolute fortune it is almost impossible to  blunt them I almost feel like I am changing the cutter for the sake of it after doing 10/15 joints they are still sharp. They are only good for chipboard worktops  thou not solid wood.

 

[bopperontbay]

The aluminium jig is only a couple of mm thick so a cutter with a bearing would not work I would have to set at depth them  tilt the router in which I don't like as it can grip the wood and wreck my jig.

 

[neth27]

the US adaptor plate then one of these http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/GB_US_160/4/203/guide_bush_usa_16mm_hinge_jig_.html

John.....

 

[ajones]

That would do it footstool didn't realise you could get a 13mm cutter.
Having not used the jig for a few years I have been using it all week and must say I love it there are a few problems like the slight tear ou t on the exit cut but I could just use a thin sacrificial piece on the edge of the door to avoid this.

The house I have been working at has very twisted casings and the arcgitarves are too close to the edge on some doors too use the jig 100% correctly but it marks the casing and just needs finishing with a chisel or freehand router but the heights are always spot on with the jig and it makes the job so easy not much thinking needed.

The worktop jig is excellent and if you buy the offset scriber for the jig it makes very out of square joints very easy to do you just place the jig on you mark without the bushes  and bobs your uncle.

Most of my trend cutters  were once my dads and are 10/15 years old some older  i just get them sharpend so can't really comment about the quality of new trend cutters but the rota tip replaceable cutters for the worktop jig has saved me a absolute fortune it is almost impossible to  blunt them I almost feel like I am changing the cutter for the sake of it after doing 10/15 joints they are still sharp. They are only good for chipboard worktops  thou not solid wood.

cut the outside first,and  in the right direction for no tear out at all [wink]

 

[ajones]

That would do it footstool didn't realise you could get a 13mm cutter.
Having not used the jig for a few years I have been using it all week and must say I love it there are a few problems like the slight tear ou t on the exit cut but I could just use a thin sacrificial piece on the edge of the door to avoid this.

The house I have been working at has very twisted casings and the arcgitarves are too close to the edge on some doors too use the jig 100% correctly but it marks the casing and just needs finishing with a chisel or freehand router but the heights are always spot on with the jig and it makes the job so easy not much thinking needed.

The worktop jig is excellent and if you buy the offset scriber for the jig it makes very out of square joints very easy to do you just place the jig on you mark without the bushes  and bobs your uncle.

Most of my trend cutters  were once my dads and are 10/15 years old some older  i just get them sharpend so can't really comment about the quality of new trend cutters but the rota tip replaceable cutters for the worktop jig has saved me a absolute fortune it is almost impossible to  blunt them I almost feel like I am changing the cutter for the sake of it after doing 10/15 joints they are still sharp. They are only good for chipboard worktops  thou not solid wood.

trend do a set of 3mm stops to replace the standard stops to allow you to use the jig on linings with arc's fitted  [cool]

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Yes, a mortising bit with a top bearing can be used with a template to rout hinge mortises, HOWEVER, any of the top bearing mortising bits I've seen have too long of a carbide cutting length to be used with commercially made jigs.  As an example, I have both the Bosch metal hinge template jig and individual Templaco single templates.  The Bosch has a thin metal edge for a template guide to ride on and the Templaco are 3/8" thick.  That barely leaves enough surface area for a bearing to ride and in operation, something's bound to go wrong ruining the bit, the template or the hinge mortise.  If you make your own templates that are a solid 1/2" or greater, the top bearing bits should work fine.

Festool offers 17mm template guide plates for the router bases, so I believe a 14mm diameter bit would be ideal for that size template guide.  Here are two bits that are 14mm:

Freud

Festool

I think this would be similar to the standard 5/8" OD template guide mated with a 1/2" diameter cutter, both increased an almost equal, yet small amount.  At some point I'll have to get them and try out the metric combo to see if it works more than just in theory.

Also, I believe Anthony was the one who pointed this out, make a small pass across the front edge of the mortise and on the right side go in a little ways, first, to eliminate tear out.  You'd be climb cutting on the right hand side of the mortise.

 

[bopperontbay]

Thanks I did not know about the thinner spacers but some of the archswere fitted almost flush to the casing so they still would of worked correctly.

I was plunging in the said corner to start the cut  and still getting tear out on the odd door they are made from tulipwood thou which is pretty soft I will try some masking tape tomorrow that will prob do the job. It does not really matter on this job  because all the old hinge and other holes in the arch  all have to be filled and sanded by the guy who is hand painting them all I suppose you could just chisel the edge on the exit cut before routering.

I love this site you are all a wealth of knowledge and inspiration.

 

[bopperontbay]

Thanks guys I think I understand now so you mean just a very shallow cut on the exit then on the deeper cut it won't tear out Is that right.

 

[Troll]

Mr Bopperontbay

As I said in my previous posts -

I use the Trend hinge jig with the OF1010 and the standard 17mm guide bush.  The Trend jig does requires a 16mm bush.  The simple way around this is to use a 1mm bigger 'setting spacer' when setting up the jig.  The jig comes with a 4mm spacer which you use with the relevant hinge to set-up the jig.  If you use a 5mm spacer (I use a 5mm twist drill) then that compensates for the over-sized bush.

You don't need to purchase any special size bits.  Also the Trend jig requires an extra long shank so you may not find it possible to buy other different size router bits that suit.

As to break-out by the router bit, if you follow standard routing use then break out can only occur on the exit, and you can eliminate this by using a sharp router bit and secondly I find a small cut in with the router on what will be the exit before cutting the housing in the normal way solves this problem.

I used this set-up for years with excellent results

Troll

 

[Deansocial]

the US adaptor plate then one of these http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/GB_US_160/4/203/guide_bush_usa_16mm_hinge_jig_.html

John.....

Thats how i do it. Well to be honest i normally use my chisels because they are faster fora few doors

 

[Tinker]

the US adaptor plate then one of these http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/GB_US_160/4/203/guide_bush_usa_16mm_hinge_jig_.html

John.....

Thats how i do it. Well to be honest i normally use my chisels because they are faster fora few doors

Any time i have ever done hinge mortices, it is for no more than a very few.  Usually to hang one or two doors.  I just do it the way i learned many moons ago when i was a teenager.  Marking guage, hammer and chisel.  That is quicker than setting up the router.

When using the router, i find more tendency for erroer than the chisel method.  But, that's me
Tinker
Tinker

 

[Alan m]

i wonder if you could machine down the 17mm  bush

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

I have the full length trend hinge jig. I use my of 1010 with the pc guide bush adaptor and trend also do a 16mm oc guide bush and have no issues with that setup at all.

 

[neth27]

I use the Trend hinge jig with a OF1400  when I'm hanging a fair few fire doors (usually in schools). In peoples houses when just using 3" butts i just use a hammer and chisel..

john

 

[demographic]

I use the long Trend hinge jig if I'm fitting loads of doors or its not many generally just chisel them out.
Sometimes I do a combination and mark out with a knife chisel the top and bottom of the hinge mortise and rout it out freehand.
It all depends on what tools are furthest away or how many doors I have to do.

 

[dougshannon]

What I use for the same purpose:

Leigh adaptor: Leigh adaptor at Axminster

Axminster bushing kit (includes 16mm): Axminster Metric bushing kit

Edit: Just saw this is for an antique thread dredged up from the grave, anyhoo my advice stands.

 

[Job and Knock]

When I was using an OF1000 for this purpose I found that a standard Festool 17mm guide bush used with a 13mm straight cutter worked as well as a 16mm Trend GB and their 12mm cutter. For rounded corner hinges (which are often 10mm radius) I used a 24mm GB with a 20mm diameter cutter

 

[Leigh243]

I’ve used both of1010 and of1400 routers with the trend hinge jig. Both with 17mm copy ring and a 13mm cutter. Advantages is dust collection but not perfect as dust escapes out the side of the cut. Main problem is the copy ring depth. It only just catches the lower adjustable block so extra care is require. Regarding tear out i plunge cut on the corner that would tear out. Problem solved.

 

[demographic]

I use the Trend hinge jig with the OF1010 and the standard 17mm guide bush.  The Trend jig does requires a 16mm bush.  The simple way around this is to use a 1mm bigger 'setting spacer' when setting up the jig.  The jig comes with a 4mm spacer which you use with the relevant hinge to set-up the jig.  If you use a 5mm spacer (I use a 5mm twist drill) then that compensates for the over-sized bush.

This works perfectly and means you don't have to bolt on cumbersome adaptor plates to the OF1010.  The Trend hinge jig (the one-piece anyway) is the finest hinge jig I've ever seen or used.  And for that matter so are their worktop jigs.

Troll

I have the Trend one piece jig and although Ive only used the 16mm guide in my De-Walt router for it, the 17mm guide would work the way you describe.
Also if there's one hinge recess out of the 4 I'm not using I blank it off with a bit of tape, just cos Ive seen a co worker forget and rout 4 hinge recesses in when only 3 were needed and we all have brain off Monday mornings.