What is the best way to route door hinges?

RonMiller

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Oct 17, 2009
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I don't often install door slabs but have to do 6 for one of my best clients. Should I buy a big-box relatively cheap jig or is there an easy way to use my MFK 700 for this?
 
I used to have one of my trim routers set up for this when I did lots of doors at a time. I made a 3/4" plywood template for the router to ride on with stops so it couldn't run out. It works well but there is a learning curve to get the hang of it.
Honestly, for 6 doors, I'd just use butt markers and a couple good chisels. Whether they are veneer doors or wood, score face lines with a good utility knife before chiseling. This reduces chipping during chiseling. I just did 4 doors a few weeks ago like this. For me at least it is a lot faster and easier than set-up for a router.
 
The manual method sounds like a good choice. If I had lots of these to do, what do others of you think?
 
Maker your own jig out of scrap.  you can use scrap cut the pieces to fit around the hinge and make a lip around the edge so you and make sure its hitting the right spot and use a flush tripm bit with the bearing on the top.  Set your depth and practice on your scrap.  the corners will be rounded and you can finish those with a chisel. 
 
get the trend hinge jig. same jig does the lining and door without changing it... yes, it costs... but you get your money back quick.. i borrowed mine from a mate...
 
when hanging less then 5 doors, i use the makita trim router free hand, i trim to within 1mm of the pencil line, and finish the rest with a freshly sharpened chisel.
any more than 5 doors, i bring out the hinge jig, similar to what has been described by holzhacker, only mine is aluminium.

as you have 6 doors, i recommend using the mfk 700 free hand and finish off with a chisel.

i also use the modern method of measuring 200mm (8 inches) down and 200mm up for the placement of the top and bottom hinges. as opposed to the old school method which was 6 inches down (from the top) and 9 inches up (from the bottom).

i am interested to hear if anybody else has their own preferred measurements for hinge placement?

regards, justin.

 
For a long time I owned a Bosch template guide. but someone put a request on Craigs list that i couldnt refuse ;D ;D

So for the last few doors I have went with 8" and 68" from the top of the door to the top of the hinge. and added 1/16 ish to the jamb
Craig
 
I'm still on 6" down and 9" up, using a home-made (single-hinge) template and dedicated router & guide bush, though virtually all the doors I do are replacements going into existing frames, so my hinge positions are dictated by the existing hinge-pockets.

As good as they are, jigs like the Trend can't accommodate that level of variation, and can't be used if the architrave is already fitted to the frame; great for new-builds though ;)

Cheers, Pete
 
I always router free hand with the trend t4 router (until i get the 1010) . I mark the outline with a sharp knife & marking gauge then router as close as possible. Very easy to clean up due to the length of the hinge being marked with the knife, which a sharp chisel seats into.
I am of the old school, 150mm down & 200mm up

Woodguy
 
About twenty years ago I bought a PC mortise hinge butt kit which paid for its self about twenty years ago.  I would invest in a kit like the PC or the Bosch, they will pay for themselves quickly.
 
I use Templaco's products.  They have everything that you can think of for machining wood doors.  I also just bought the MFS 400 and can't wait to use it.  See Brice Burrell's tutorial on the MFS 400 about using it for door hardware.
 
kdzito said:
I use Templaco's products.  They have everything that you can think of for machining wood doors.  I also just bought the MFS 400 and can't wait to use it.  See Brice Burrell's tutorial on the MFS 400 about using it for door hardware.

That's how I use the MFS the most, routing door hinges. In fact that's what I'll be doing tomorrow.
 
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