Wood to Concrete Adhesive

[WastedP]

Does anyone have any recommendations for an adhesive to stick white-wood blocking to concrete?  I've got an island to set that is on a slab with in-floor heating, so there is no way I am going to drill for Tapcons or other anchors.  It has been so long since I have been in this situation that I can't remember what I used last time.  Silicone?  PL construction adhesive?

Once I found out about the in-floor heating, I changed the island design to more of a table style to eliminate the leverage of a cantilevered overhang.  Even still, I'm a strong believer in overbuilding, so I'd like to find a solid way to attach blocking to the floor, just in case the island doesn't get used the way I would treat it.

 

[tjbnwi]

Sinks Pro Select Polyurethane construction adhesive.

Anchors are not and issue in a heated floor, thermal image the area while the heat is on, lines show up very well.

Tom

 

[WastedP]

...thermal image the area while the heat is on, lines show up very well.

I'll have to hire a Predator for an installer, as I don't have access to a FLIR camera these days.  That's a great argument for getting one, though.

I will look into the Sinks Pro product, thanks.  Would there be any problems applying it to stained/glazed concrete?

 

[tjbnwi]

The Sika sticks to everything and anything I think, stuff is tenacious. Weight the piece for an hour or so.

One other thing, do not use white pine, use something that is moisture resistant, cypress or borate treated are good choices. Maybe synthetic decking?

Tom

 

[justinh]

I'd tack the blocking with Pamtite hot melt glue combined with the Sika that Tom suggested.  The Pamtite is designed to glue carpet tack strips to concrete and the carpet can get stretched in 5 min.  I've never used it for that but it's great for millwork installs.

The hot melt would just hold it until the CA cured in your application.  If the concrete is sealed scuff up the area where you want to adhere the blocking.

 

[tjbnwi]

I agree with Justin on the Pam Tite. Scuffing will help the bite also.

Tom

 

[WastedP]

Ah... Sika Pro.  That adds up.  I used one of the Sikaflex products on a project that required pick-proof sealant.  That stuff does stick to everything, and requires some harsh solvents to remove if it ends up in the wrong place (and hasn't cured).

I'll check out the Pamtite at the flooring supply warehouse next time I'm there.  I have a HiPURformer glue gun that I could also use to tack stuff down.

I have to confess that I have never used pressure treat or other water-resistant wood for blocking.  I guess I figure that if it floods, I would probably have to pull the cabinets.  I hadn't considered just wicking moisture from the slab.  I've been doing it that way for a long time, but I can't think of a reason not to use treated wood.

Thanks, all, for the suggestions.

 

[tjbnwi]

[member=41832]WastedP[/member]

The pressure treated has to do with the concrete floor the blocks are going on. It is a code requirement, wood that contacts concrete/masonry must be rot resistant.

PamTite is a good thing to have around.

Tom

 

[WastedP]

So, do cabinet toekicks also have to be rot resistant, according to code?

 

[Stone Message]

Yes, Sika is excellent. If you need to add belt and braces then widen the footprint (on the inside where it will not show) for greater surface area.

Peter

 

[matte]

Take a ms polymer glue. If you clean the surface with a solvent cleaner. And use this glue. It will stick like concrete. Sika is a good product. I use this kind of glue at my job to glue solar panels on towable homes.

 

[Brent Taylor]

The last time I had to do such an attachment I used the adhesive that is used to set the cap blocks on retainer walls,  can't remember the name of the product,  but I got it from my concrete supplier. It worked really well.

 

[MaineShop]

I use PL premium for that all the time. I remodel a lot of basements with radiant these days and we glue a pressure treated plate down  with PL  all the time, just make sure the concrete is nice and dry. If it is a humid day and you have condensation on the concrete the PL doesn't seem to bond right. I have had to take a couple plates done that way up before and the board took some good chunks of the concrete with it. If the space where you are bonding to is in a nice dry floor you could probably get away with just bonding kiln dried lumber right to the concrete but you will run the risk of moisture in the floor having a capillary action into the wood.

 

[Cheese]

FWIW...I had to veneer bluestone treads & risers to a set of outside entry steps. I used LOCTITE® PL® LANDSCAPE BLOCK ADHESIVE, and through the rain and snow of 6 months, when spring arrived, all of the risers were now crooked or they had simply detached themselves from the concrete.

Having had great luck in the past using LOCTITE® PL PREMIUM® POLYURETHANE CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE for concrete to wood interfaces, I decided to remove the old adhesive and use the PL Premium. Happy to announce that 3 years later the PL Premium is doing what the PL Landscape was unable to do.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12...remium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

 

[tjbnwi]

So, do cabinet toekicks also have to be rot resistant, according to code?

(Sorry for the very late response) Any wood in direct concrete must be rot resistant. You can use Vycor along the bottom edges so there his not direct contact between the wood and concrete.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

So Tom in a normal installation, you'd adhere the Vycor to the concrete and then adhere the wood to the Vycor?

 

[tjbnwi]

So Tom in a normal installation, you'd adhere the Vycor to the concrete and then adhere the wood to the Vycor?

The blocks would be rot resistant and adhered directly to the concrete with one of the methods from above.

The bottom edge of the case work get Vycor Pro Poly, it is the barrier between the casework edge and the concrete. Most lower wages of casework are exposed cores, they easily absorb moisture. I don't use much MDF but if I did I'd make sure it was MRMDF.

Tom