Aligning an OF1400 For Dados - Marking out??

[extiger]

I want to use my OF1400 to cut Dados. I've got the Guide Stop, so I can employ the guide rails do to this. How to you align the router with your intended cut line?  Just visually, using the V-cut in the base?  Perhaps I'm searching for something more complicated when it isn't needed.

Gary Curtis
Northern California

 

[poto]

I don't have the OF1400, but the OF1010. When I make dadoes (I usually use a 3/4 inch straight cutting bit) I do it visually: I lower the bit to the line, and using my finger (the router's unplugged) rotate the bit until the blade is perpendicular to the cut line. The I use the micro adjuster to move the router in and out until the tip of one of the flutes is exactly on the cut line. It sounds fussy, but it's actually pretty easy to do accurately. And if you want to do multiple similar dadoes (or tenons), put a fence to the right of the guide rail so that you can butt the piece up against it. This will ensure that the dado ends up at the same location every time. You can also gang a bunch of pieces together, and do them all at once.

 

[Daviddubya]

The mark in the base is the centerline of the bit.  Mark the dado centerline and align it with the mark in the base of the router.  Poto's method works just as well.

 

[tbellemare]

Depending on the situation, you can also use the Edge Guide (492636) effectively. I just used it to put some dados in 2x4's for windows on a shed I'm building. It also has a micro-adjuster.

Tom

 

[extiger]

Depending on the situation, you can also use the Edge Guide effectively. I just used it to put some dados in 2x4's for windows on a shed I'm building. It also has a micro-adjuster.

The edge guide would seem useful for trenching  --- long grooves going with the grain. But my Dados will all be cross-grain, on the short dimension of a board. No convenient edge to guide the router.

Gary

 

[ChicagoMike]

I use the rail and rail guide. I set up the guide to be X distance from the leading edge of the start of the dado. I usually use 1" as X. I have a rip 1" wide and line it up with my line, place the rail against the rip and cut the dado. No measuring or sighting the centerline. Works pretty quick for me.

 

[extiger]

Mke, what do you mean by:

a) the rail?

b) 1" as X ?

c) I have a rip 1" wide - what is a rip (with what tool)

d) And what line do you align with? Where did the line come from?

I sense that you are using trade terminology, and I'm too green (not in a Festool sense) to understand.

Thanks

 

[Dan Clermont]

The center line works well for me.

If at all possible Clamp both sides of the cabinet together and cut both sides in a single pass, that way you won't have to worry about setting up twice and you will minimize the errors.

Dan Clermont

 

[ChicagoMike]

Extiger,

I will be cutting some dadoes tomorrow (Friday). I will take some pics to explain further.

 

[KevinW]

Is everyone fairly satisfied with cutting dados with the Festool routers and the guide?

 

[Daviddubya]

Is everyone fairly satisfied with cutting dados with the Festool routers and the guide?

I use the OF1400 with the MFT/guide rail to cut dados.  Works fine for me as long as I have a bit that makes the correct width of cut, without having to move the work piece to make a wider dado.  Making more than one pass is easy if the cut needs to be deeper.  If I need to cut a dado that is a different width than the router bit sizes I have, then I go to the table saw and dado blade.

 

[Tinker]

The center line works well for me.

If at all possible Clamp both sides of the cabinet together and cut both sides in a single pass, that way you won't have to worry about setting up twice and you will minimize the errors.

Dan Clermont

Or doubles ???
Tinker