Best way to router-radius corners?

[rdesigns]

I need to router a small radius (1") on the corners of a bunch of 3/4 and 4/4 melamine pieces--about 80 corners.

In the past, I have used a simple guide, which was just a piece of 1/4 mdf--about 10" square--with the radius I want on one corner. I clamp it to the top side of the work with small vise-grip clamps and router with a top-bearing pattern bit.

Any tips to make this quicker and easier? (I have the OF1400 router and CT26)

 

[jmbfestool]

I need to router a small radius (1") on the corners of a bunch of 3/4 and 4/4 melamine pieces--about 80 corners.

In the past, I have used a simple guide, which was just a piece of 1/4 mdf--about 10" square--with the radius I want on one corner. I clamp it to the top side of the work with small vise-grip clamps and router with a top-bearing pattern bit.

Any tips to make this quicker and easier? (I have the OF1400 router and CT26)

Would this help?

http://www.woodpeck.com/radiusquickjig.html

 

[rdesigns]

Sorry to say, no. I should have been clearer in that the pieces are too big to bring to a router table. So, I need a template that can be clamped to the workpiece and leave room for the router base in the space between the clamps and the router base.

But...this opens up a new line of thinking:  maybe I could add the side pieces that your link shows to register the template, and drill a finger hole to allow me to keep the template pulled tight against the guides while doing one-handed routing with the other hand.

Hmmm....dangerous thinking. (Not because of one-handed routing, but because I might be tempted to buy Festool's MFK 700.)

 

[PeterK]

It depends upon the surface you are working with. I use corner guides from WoodHaven. They have plastic templates with plastic location pins and they stay in place with just the router bit bearing pressure pushing the guide against the material. Can use double stick tape if desired. Done this many times but had no obstacles to work around.

 

[mattfc]

Another way would be to change the way you clamp it. You could make the corner template such that it clamps by vacuum. You need a good vacuum source so either a vacuum pump, or a Venturi vacuum generator that runs of a compressor. High density plastic would be good for the template, route a channel in the underside for a rubber gasket, then connect the hose in the side of the template and drill a hole sideways and a connecting hole to the side hole by drilling half way through from the underside. Joe's veneer supplies has all the bits to make it

 

[dltflt]

Hmmm....dangerous thinking. (Not because of one-handed routing, but because I might be tempted to buy Festool's MFK 700.)

Any reason to buy a new tool.  That is good thinking

 

[Alan m]

iv done that in the past ,get a square and put the radius on the corner. then put dowels into the  face to regester it ,put on a piece to make some of it the same thickness as what your using and put a toggle clamp on there. very easy to use , no clamps in the way, very ridgid. iv even done large shapes this way  with 2 clamps on each end. never had a single problem using it. use a good dense mdf,ply or plastic and use a guide bush so that the jig wond wear as much

 

[joiner1970]

I need to router a small radius (1") on the corners of a bunch of 3/4 and 4/4 melamine pieces--about 80 corners.

In the past, I have used a simple guide, which was just a piece of 1/4 mdf--about 10" square--with the radius I want on one corner. I clamp it to the top side of the work with small vise-grip clamps and router with a top-bearing pattern bit.

Any tips to make this quicker and easier? (I have the OF1400 router and CT26)

To be honest I don't think there is a better way than the way you are doing it. I always do mine that way , maybe you can refine the jig so its quicker and easier to clamp/un-clamp.

 

[jmbfestool]

Sorry to say, no. I should have been clearer in that the pieces are too big to bring to a router table. So, I need a template that can be clamped to the workpiece and leave room for the router base in the space between the clamps and the router base.

But...this opens up a new line of thinking:  maybe I could add the side pieces that your link shows to register the template, and drill a finger hole to allow me to keep the template pulled tight against the guides while doing one-handed routing with the other hand.

Hmmm....dangerous thinking. (Not because of one-handed routing, but because I might be tempted to buy Festool's MFK 700.)

You are right you don't need to clamp it .    Make a larger version of the woodpecker jig just once sided.    Get some makita/festool friction tape the same you have under you guide rails stick that to the under side of the jig job done.

  The jig can't go an where cause it is trapped into a corner and your pushing it into a corner the tape just gives you more security it won't move.   So you can use both hands on a router still.

Jmb

 

[rdesigns]

Sorry to say, no. I should have been clearer in that the pieces are too big to bring to a router table. So, I need a template that can be clamped to the workpiece and leave room for the router base in the space between the clamps and the router base.

But...this opens up a new line of thinking:  maybe I could add the side pieces that your link shows to register the template, and drill a finger hole to allow me to keep the template pulled tight against the guides while doing one-handed routing with the other hand.

Hmmm....dangerous thinking. (Not because of one-handed routing, but because I might be tempted to buy Festool's MFK 700.)

You are right you don't need to clamp it .    Make a larger version of the woodpecker jig just once sideded.    Get some makita/festool friction tape the same you have under you guide rails stick that to the under side of the jig job.

   The jig can't go an where cause it is trapped into a corner and you pushing it into a corner the tape just gives you more security it won't move.   So you can use both hands on a router still.

Jmb

That's the way I'm headed, and thanks for aiming me that way.

Instead of friction tape, I coated the surface with clear silicone, spreading it thin with a 6" taping knife. I used 1/4" mdf-core, one-sided melamine for the template. The melamine side will be slick and the other side has the silicone coating.

When the silicone is cured, I'll add the guide pieces to the sides and drill a finger/thumb hole far enough away from the radius corner to clear the router base.

BTW, for this purpose, I am seriously considering buying the Bosch Colt, as it's called here in the US. According to reviews I've read, it's a decent trim router, priced here at $109. I would make an acrylic base with a dust collection port to combine it with my CT26. (Festool has made me hate wood dust.)

 

[RONWEN]

[/quote]

BTW, for this purpose, I am seriously considering buying the Bosch Colt, as it's called here in the US. According to reviews I've read, it's a decent trim router, priced here at $109. I would make an acrylic base with a dust collection port to combine it with my CT26. (Festool has made me hate wood dust.)
[/quote]

I've been tempted by the Colt price & good reviews several times.  I seem to always withdraw because of the 1/4" collet limitation.  For years I only had a 1/4" router and have done lots of work with it but since getting the 1400 those 1/2" shanks are nice to have.  The 1010 with the 8mm shanks would be great but then again, how many Bosch Colts could be purchased for only one 1010???  [unsure]  If they upgraded the Colt to accept 8mm shanks it would be hard to beat.

 

[rdesigns]

BTW, for this purpose, I am seriously considering buying the Bosch Colt, as it's called here in the US. According to reviews I've read, it's a decent trim router, priced here at $109. I would make an acrylic base with a dust collection port to combine it with my CT26. (Festool has made me hate wood dust.)
[/quote]

I've been tempted by the Colt price & good reviews several times.  I seem to always withdraw because of the 1/4" collet limitation.  For years I only had a 1/4" router and have done lots of work with it but since getting the 1400 those 1/2" shanks are nice to have.  The 1010 with the 8mm shanks would be great but then again, how many Bosch Colts could be purchased for only one 1010???  [unsure]  If they upgraded the Colt to accept 8mm shanks it would be hard to beat.
[/quote]

It appears to me that the Colt is not designed to handle anything but small bits. I think most of us would not expect just one router to do it all. To me, the combination of the OF1400 and the Colt would cover most of the needs a can forsee for my work.

Besides which, I don't own any 8mm bits, even though 8mm seems to be a good all-around shank diameter, but not common here in the US.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

BTW, for this purpose, I am seriously considering buying the Bosch Colt, as it's called here in the US. According to reviews I've read, it's a decent trim router, priced here at $109. I would make an acrylic base with a dust collection port to combine it with my CT26. (Festool has made me hate wood dust.)

Before you go spending money on the Bosch Colt router, consider something else...

I was in Lowes the other day, picking up some stuff and I heard a couple of voices, ok, several voices calling me to the tool section.  While browsing I noticed the new DeWalt DWP611 trim router.  I believe this is the one Dave was playing with at the Tool Nut show last year.  Anyway I was playing with the display model and I will say that the depth adjustment is MUCH better and more accurate than my Bosch Colt.  The router body is a little bigger and I didn't get to actually use it, so those are just my initial impressions.

 

[Falch]

i owned a colt a few months back (of1010 now ), well i owned the european/scandinavian version, the gkt600, but it is the same machine. anyways, mine came standard with 6 and 8 mm collet, and the standard bits for it that came with it was 8mm, so yeah it can use 8mm.
only thing i noticed was, i wanted to get my hands on some 1/4" bits for it, so i went ahead and ordered a spare collet for it from mtmc, and this was a spare collet for the uk gkt600, not the colt, and what i received was a very different size/type collet that did not fit/register properly. must be some sort of way to hinder us scandinavians using imperial stuff :/ (had to modify a 6mm collet to accommodate the 1/4")
anyways, there must be a way to get some 8mm collets, if it is not actually available right away..

 

[rdesigns]

BTW, for this purpose, I am seriously considering buying the Bosch Colt, as it's called here in the US. According to reviews I've read, it's a decent trim router, priced here at $109. I would make an acrylic base with a dust collection port to combine it with my CT26. (Festool has made me hate wood dust.)

Before you go spending money on the Bosch Colt router, consider something else...

I was in Lowes the other day, picking up some stuff and I heard a couple of voices, ok, several voices calling me to the tool section.  While browsing I noticed the new DeWalt DWP611 trim router.  I believe this is the one Dave was playing with at the Tool Nut show last year.  Anyway I was playing with the display model and I will say that the depth adjustment is MUCH better and more accurate than my Bosch Colt.  The router body is a little bigger and I didn't get to actually use it, so those are just my initial impressions.

I found some more reviews that actually compared the Colt to the DWP611, and found long-time users of the Colt who bought the DeWalt are much happier with the DeWalt. Besides which, the DeWalt can be fitted with a factory-made dust collection accessory as well as a pluge base--both extra $ of course. Still, good options at not-too-steep a price.

So...I paid a little more and bought the DeWalt. Thanks (I hope) for the tip.

Russ