Considering switching from track saws/MFT to a panel saw.

Not knowing a whole lot about the BenchDog system I took a look and found out he has addressed the inadequacy of squares for the MFT with a couple of posts that screw into his big triangle. I’d like them to be taller though.

Also looked at his Quad MFT? rig. I still think the DashBoard system is better, mainly because the shoulders that guide the part that slides up and down are longer. I watched his (BenchDog) quick intro to the thing and he simply put the parts together and tested with his square and pronounced it good. I watched Peter Millard’s video of the pre-production model and the same thing happened. I consider both results minor miracles, especially in Peter’s case as it appeared he kinda eyeballed where to put the front mounting holes. Neither addressed the problem of adjustment if the grid pattern isn’t perfectly perfect. Maybe that is the difficulty sarno is having?

I really don’t know how to adjust that BenchDog setup. How in the world do you do the 4 cut method with stuff that is locked into holes? Maybe there is some play where the rail joins the hinge? I guess that would be possible but awkward. I’d be lost without a simple pivoting fence on top of the table.
The Benchdogs hinge has pre-drilled holes for each rail type. You put a stopper in the relevant hole for your rail then drop the rail into it. This locks your rail in and you can't adjust it so your fence must be square or adjustable. To get around this, you can choose to use the slotted cut out on the hinge instead of the pre-drilled holes. This allows the stopper to move left or right to get the rail square to your fence. You then tighten down the stopper once you're happy.
 
I am sure Peter Parfitt’s angles are all perfect. 🙂

Benchdogs UK sells CNC-milled tabletops made to measure. Metabo sells a cheap replacement tabletop for their MFT knock-off. But a crosscut station can be built more simply without a full grid. I wouldn’t bother drilling 100 holes by hand for this purpose.
Thinking about how to do this without using dog holes/MFTs... I have a t-slot track running along the face of my bench so if I add a second to the backside I could mount a Dashboard hinge there. Or even make my own bracket both sides where I could place a dog hole. At least then I can slide them around until they're square to the fence.
 
Maybe you need someone who has experience using the equipment to give some advice. I used a Festool track saw when they first came out and it was a disappointing experience and I have never attempted to repeat it but in those days none of the accessories were available so instead I bought a Hammer slider and love it. MFT tables don't look like a rigid device at all but then I want a bench that is suitable for hand work with planes, chisels etc and is rigid enough for that purpose. One advantage of a slider is that it can if you want it can replace a mitre saw with no disadvantages at all.
 
The Benchdogs hinge has pre-drilled holes for each rail type. You put a stopper in the relevant hole for your rail then drop the rail into it. This locks your rail in and you can't adjust it so your fence must be square or adjustable. To get around this, you can choose to use the slotted cut out on the hinge instead of the pre-drilled holes. This allows the stopper to move left or right to get the rail square to your fence. You then tighten down the stopper once you're happy.
Sounds like it’s only awkwardly adjustable, hence you haven’t been satisfied so far.

I’d probably lock the rail in place and get a different fence. Being me, I’d get an original Festool MFT fence because they’re simple and so many people have thrown them over for something fancy, so it would be cheap too. I don’t think a fence needs to be fancy, although sliding stops are nice (and the old Fes MFT fence has them), but with all the holes in the table it’s simple to clamp a stop wherever it’s needed.
 
Thinking about how to do this without using dog holes/MFTs... I have a t-slot track running along the face of my bench so if I add a second to the backside I could mount a Dashboard hinge there. Or even make my own bracket both sides where I could place a dog hole. At least then I can slide them around until they're square to the fence.

Yeah, that setup still feels a bit cumbersome to wrangle for my taste. I’d chase something simpler—less fiddling with adjustments, more rock-solid dependability to keep life easy.

I inherited an ancient family heirloom workbench and mostly parked it in the shop as decoration. But when big jobs ate up our space, we’d drag it out as an extra crosscut station. No way was I risking saw scars on that beauty, so we slapped on a quick MFT-style top for a dead-simple Benchdogs setup: a pair of them in the back as the fence, one to the right with spacers as a stop block, and two tall dogs to lock in the guide rail.

It took a minute to dial in, plus some trial-and-error saw handling to kill any rail wobble. But once humming, we could slice through MDF and plywood very reliably for about a hundred mid-size drawer panels.

With too much adjustability, I’d worry it’d drift over time from sheet bumps. Give me boring reliability any day!

To keep things even simpler, I’d skip the dog-hole pattern, fix the fence permanently to the back, and bolt something on where the guide rail registers at a perfect 90° angle—maybe a hinge or just stop blocks. Once that’s set, I’d think about repeatable fence stops for crosscuts; that could be anything simple, like a clamped wood scrap, or something fancier—whatever works.

The workflow would be like this:

• Clean up factory edge.
• Rip cuts with parallel guides.
• Use the MFT crosscut station or a rail square to square it up.
• Then register with the square edge to the fence stop and cut stuff to size.
 
Yeah, that setup still feels a bit cumbersome to wrangle for my taste. I’d chase something simpler—less fiddling with adjustments, more rock-solid dependability to keep life easy.
This should be the basic standard for all the main processes in your workshop whether you do it for a living or as a hobby unless you don't mind sloppy results or spending most of your time on setting up things than on real woodworking.

In fact, I'd argue (at the risk of unintentionally offending some ones) that that's the difference between an efficient woodworker and an inefficient one.
 
My simple portable right angle cutting station is an old MFT 800 top mounted to a Dewalt miter saw stand. The cutting table is on the right end of the stand and another pair of brackets support a movable stop setup. I this case I used tall dogs to secure the rail (with spring clips made for the purpose) and the fence is fixed to the mdf with screws after making the small adjustments needed.

In the rare cases when I needed to cut other angles on that rig I just clamped an auxiliary fence to the table.
 
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