Down with the old & Up with the new

[Cheese]

I previously mentioned some subfloor sponginess across the 30" spacing for the skylight trusses. My solution was to reinforce the middle of the floor panel with a 2x4 on edge, screwed & glued, using PL400. For the joined edges of the subfloor where the T&G engages, I used a 2x4 on the flat, again screwed & glued. This has really made the floor more solid to the extent that it now feels more solid than the 24" spans.  [tongue]  Will this ever end?  [smile]

Here's a shot of the middle of the DuraStrand panel with the 2x set on the edge. 5 each #10 x 3-1/2" GRK screws spaced 6" apart and 3" from each truss edge.

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Here's a shot of the T&G joint with the 2x set on the flat. 10 each #10 x 2" GRK screws spaced as above and on each side of the T&G joint.

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Here's a shot of the very same area after I used the Planex with 120 grit Granat to level the T&G joint. The Planex was used while standing up, so easy to do, what a pleasure. I normally feather the joined edges with a heavy Milwaukee 4" belt sander while on my hands & knees and with marginal dust extraction.  [sad]

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[Cheese]

A 2-man crew arrived this morning to stucco coat the 2" thick foam board insulation that covers the foundation and first row of block. The first order of the day was to clean and roughen the foam board to promote adhesion. They used a Decker curry comb to abrade the foam surface. The grey particles on the ground are foam board insulation.

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Step 2 was to adhere some 12" wide fiberglass mesh tape to the insulation. It appears to be the same stuff used for drywall but just a lot wider. The 1st coat is very wet and it is simply troweled on the mesh tape using a standard cement trowel. The 2nd photo is how it appears as it slowly dries.

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Unfortunately, I was at Menards when they arrived to apply the brown coat. It would have been interesting to see what trowel they used for this, it sure is nice & even.

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As a refresher, here's a before & after.

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[Cheese]

Hi [member=44099]Cheese[/member],

I think we're pretty close in age. I'll be 75 this year.

It sounds like your machine will be dispensing "freebies", thanks to Starvin' Marvin. At least you don't have to worry about carrying any change around with you.

Keep up the good work. I'm enjoying this adventure of yours. Thanks.

Hi [member=61023]BarneyD[/member] ...just ran across your reply.  [smile]  And thanks for the kind words.

Ya, sometimes I seriously wonder how I/we ever made it to this age. Let's just say that constraints on personal freedom were a lot more lax years ago even if that meant you were necessarily infringing on someone else's personal freedom...which was ok.  [eek]

As far as Starvin Marvin and the garage gang goes...what's more powerful than testosterone fueled boys, driving gasoline powered cars piloted by alcohol fueled juveniles.

On another note, lucky for me, I found another coin changer and I will install that into the Coke machine. The price will still be 10 cents because I like the historical aspect of it all.  [big grin]

And the entire refurb of that Coke machine will be done using Festool sanders which weren't available 40 years ago, let alone when the Coke machine was produced back in 1952. This Coke machine thing is growing on me.  [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

So, there was a time when recessed lighting involved installing "cans" which needed to be part of the structural element of the ceiling. The cans were relatively heavy and needed some type of structural support. The new "canless" LED fixtures changed all of that and the new philosophy is to make the canless LED's as light as possible while still incorporating an integral J-box for 120V wire connections. All of which means installation is drastically different than in the past.

For this new garage loft installation, I decided to try something I haven't done before. I decided to recess 1/4" thick ply between the trusses to support the canless LED fixtures. The idea being that once the LED fixtures were installed, I could finish insulating the ceiling, install the vapor barrier and then when it came to drywall time, I'd drop the LED fixture, install the drywall and reinstall the LED fixture.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] sounds like a bunch of extra work  [eek]

On another note, are you still thinking about a Clausing drill press for the shop? Description says Red Wing MN. Looks pretty nice from the pics and it's single phase.
https://www.facebook.com/share/diT4LPfaxKstEJ2Z/

Ron

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] sounds like a bunch of extra work  [eek]

On another note, are you still thinking about a Clausing drill press for the shop? Description says Red Wing MN. Looks pretty nice from the pics and it's single phase.
https://www.facebook.com/share/diT4LPfaxKstEJ2Z/

Ron

Ya, it is some additional work Ron but the loft probably won't be sheet rocked for at least a year. So now that the electricity is finished in the loft, and that was the focus, the upstairs is functional once I complete the insulation install. Drywall could be a good winter project.  [smile]

Thanks for pointing out that Clausing Ron,  [thumbs up]  I'm going to contact them and see what happens. That Clausing is in excellent condition and the price is a good deal. Weight and transportation are the real issues for me. That would be perfect on the 240V 20 amp circuit with the L6-20 plug.  [smile]  I checked current new pricing and they run around $6700 plus tax.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] that thing is probably around 600 pounds.

I would suggest dropping the table and the head as low as they will go to lower the center of gravity.

A refrigerator dolly should make that easier to move. Rent a lower u haul trail if needed.

Ron

 

[Cheese]

So because of this thread below today, I decided to highlight some additional information on the CXS 12. There is a huge power difference between the CXS 10.6 and the CXS 12.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...or-replacement/msg717926/?topicseen#msg717926

I'm installing recessed LED's in the ceiling of the loft in the garage using these tools.
1. A CXS 10.6, a 1/4" brad point drill & a Big Gator drill guide. This produces the properly placed pilot holes necessary for the hole saw.
2. A CXS 12 and a Milwaukee 4-1/2" diameter hole saw to bore thru the 1/4" ply.

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[Cheese]

So, as I mentioned in an earlier post, traditional recessed can lighting needs to be supported by structural framing members, however, the newer LED "canless" recessed lighting doesn't demand the same support structure because of its light weight and the ever changing electrical codes.

With this in mind, I decided to do a simple canless installation in the garage loft.
1. I cut scrap pieces of maple into 3/4" x 3/4" x 8" long strips and recessed them 1/4" from the lower edge of the truss.
2. Installed 1/4" thick ply to be flush with the bottom of the truss.
3. Clamped on a piece of scrap OSB as a backer to the ply.
4. Located and drilled the 1/4" pilot hole for the hole saw.
5. Drilled the 4-1/2" diameter thru hole with the hole saw.
6. Ready for the insertion of the LED canless lights.  [smile]

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[rmwarren]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I used some of these lights last year to retrofit the one room we cheaped out on when building (the gym) and only had a single fan/light. Darn I wished they'd been available in 2010, what a pleasure to work with compared to the 5" 65W cans everywhere else.

In my case I was cutting thru existing drywall with spray foam on top. Cut the holes with a hole saw, scooped out a minimum amount of foam and poked a hole thru for the wires, then it was just a matter of climbing into the attic to make connections. As pleasant a job as anything can be when working overhead on a ladder/in an attic.

The lights also used a J-box with an ~18" pigtail and QD connector, really well engineered. When connected to the pigtail & still hanging in the hole the boss got to decide on the color temp setting before finally popping then in place. And they look clean plus are dimmable and around 17W to boot.

Now I just need to retrofit the other (no kidding) 100+ incandescent cans elsewhere in the house...

RMW

 

[rvieceli]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] i notice that the Clausing has a sold sticker on it. I HOPE that it was you the managed to snag it.

Ron

 

[Cheese]

Hey [member=44099]Cheese[/member] i notice that the Clausing has a sold sticker on it. I HOPE that it was you the managed to snag it.

Ron

Hey Ron, I called them up but it was already MIA...purchased by someone else. [sad]

This thread has me thinking about the options out there and while the Clausing is virtually indestructible, the Ellis offers a tapping feature which is really worth considering and it too also weighs over 600#.

If the Nova Vulcan was still available that would also be a consideration but that's something that's likely not going to happen soon.

I like my present Delta as it goes down to 150 rpm but I'm missing speeds in the middle of the range. From 540 rpm I jump to 1150 rpm and I've only used the top speed of 2200 maybe 6 times in the 32 years I've owned it.  [tongue]

And while it's considered to be a 9-speed tool, 3 of those speeds are 440, 490 & 540 rpm, then throw out the 2200 speed and I really have only 6 speeds to choose from.

 

[rvieceli]

Bummer

 

[Cheese]

Well I certainly got my money's worth for this MINI dust bag. I managed to fill up the bag past the opening and up into the MINI plastic hose port.

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The good news is that this was all dust generated from cutting foam board insulation so it never really bricked the bag the same way I have with the CT 22 and CT MIDI. Also, because the MINI uses a MIDI bag but in a smaller bottom container, once I removed the top housing, the dust resettled in the unused areas of the larger MIDI bag. This was a good thing this time around but then I suddenly realized that I was paying for MIDI dust bag capacity but only getting MINI capacity.  [eek]

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[rvieceli]

Cheese that only counts if you filled the hose also up to the intake end.  [tongue]

ROn

 

[Cheese]

Cheese that only counts if you filled the hose also up to the intake end.  [tongue]

ROn

Funny you mention that Ron...the hose was starting to plug up.  [smile]  When I removed the hose from the vac, I turned it over and a purple foam plug had started to develop in the end. I had to bring it to the basket and probe it a couple of times with a piece of welding rod. I only noticed this condition after a cut with the track saw left a bunch of foam dust on the guide rail. The sound of the MINI never changed, it remained the same at all times.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Funny you mention that Ron...the hose was starting to plug up.  [smile]  When I removed the hose from the vac, I turned it over and a purple foam plug had started to develop in the end. I had to bring it to the basket and probe it a couple of times with a piece of welding rod. I only noticed this condition after a cut with the track saw left a bunch of foam dust on the guide rail. The sound of the MINI never changed, it remained the same at all times.

Both my CT-22 at home and CT-26 at work are the same. There's no indication that it's approaching full. Suction seems fine up to the point where the hose starts getting filled up. I'm always impressed with the "brick" that has to be extracted from the tank.

 

[rst]

I use my Metabo 18v vac when cutting plastics not in my shop.  Last week I cut 17 pieces of 1/4” polycarbonate in the glass shop that I work part time.  The Metabo is the small original that is probably the size of a mini.  When I’m ripping plastics, I stick a 2” strip of painters tape to close up the gap between the saw and plastic.  Excepting the very end nothing of consequence escapes.  At the point I was only a few pieces to go, I checked the hose connection and found it clogged despite the vac still of allowing plastic chips to escape the saw.  I emptied the bag in the trash and finished up.  I had maybe 6” of chips in the hose which with some judicious thumping and a little prodding with a long screwdriver emptied.

 

[Cheese]

Circa 19 years ago when I turned our upstairs attic into a master bedroom, when I first started to insulate the ceiling I relied on the cheap universally available thin foam "chutes" that were available at the time. They were flimsy, they were cheap and they were not very well engineered, but what the hey...that's what the professionals use.  [smile]

Well after many starts and restarts I finally decided that as convenient as they were to install, and as inexpensive as they were, they left a lot to be desired as a product for the home. I ripped out all of them that I had already installed and decided to find a better alternative.

I eventually decided upon using 1" thick Celotex foam board insulation, ripping it into 1" widths and using those 1" spacers as a way to place 1" thick Celotex panels 1" off the surface of the the roof under the roofing deck. That provided a nice smooth surface for the ingress of outside air and produced a much larger passageway for the ducting of the cooling air to the roof deck. That worked well 19 years ago and I've been extremely happy with the results. I will add, 19 years ago a track saw was not on my radar screen so my tool of choice was a 4" drywall knife sharpened to an acute/sharp edge and then dragged repeatedly against a straight edge until it eventually  broke through the Celotex foam board...it was a long drawn out process that I never wanted to repeat.

Well, fast forward 19 years and now I have the identical situation again in installing attic loft insulation in a garage. I assumed that the foolishness with the past venting systems had been corrected and thought nothing about installing the new venting solutions assuming the previous stupidity had been corrected.
After installing several of the "new" venting solutions I realized that the cheap foam materials had been simply replaced with more flexible forms of cheaper plastic materials but the stupidity had continued. I digress, I could rag on for hours on how horrific these "new" chutes have installed...twisting...turning...being 1" proud from the roof deck on one side and being 1-1/2" proud from the roof deck on the other side. 

So where is this rambling discussion going?  Simply that while the housing science has changed in the last 20 years, some of the recommended housing materials have not.

So with that in mind, after I installed the "new chutes" in the garage and became disgusted with the results, I ripped out the "new vents" and went back to foam board. As Celotex is no longer available locally, I decided to install 1-1/2" thick Owens Corning instead.

The top chord on the rafter truss is a 2x8 so you have a cavity depth of 7-1/4". The foam board spacer is 1-1/2" thick as is the foam board itself. So after the foam board chutes are installed there is still 4-1/4" of space available for additional insulation. The 1-1/2" thick foam board has an R-7.5 value.

Before installing the foam board panel, on an 85º sunny day, the underside of the roof was registering in the range of 115º-120º. After installing the foam board spacer & foam board panel, the temp on the panel now registers in the 85º-90º range. I'll install some additional fiberglass batts along with some drywall and I expect the drywall temp will be in the 75º-80º range. Here's what the installation looks like so far.

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[squall_line]

Will there be a fire barrier installed over this?

Edit: I see you said "and drywall", which is the fire barrier.  [doh]