onocoffee
Member
Finally got to use the Clamping Elements and they clamp great. However, I have been unable to retract the arm to set it for different operations. I do feel like an idiot to ask this, but how is it done?
MFT SP Clamping Elements Won’t Retract
- Thread starter onocoffee
- Start date
Dr. P. Venkman
Member
You mean after you flip the lever back all the way up toward the workpiece, you can’t slide the shaft back? You sometimes do need to make sure it’s flipped ALL the way up - it’ll sometimes start providing clamping pressure, even pulled back a little bit, so the shaft is really only “free” when the lever is all the way up.
I may not be understanding the question.
I have loved mine for years, btw.
I may not be understanding the question.
I have loved mine for years, btw.
onocoffee
Member
I ended up shooting this video to help illustrate the issue. I have the levers all the way forward and even pushed it up a little more (not in the video) and was unable to retract the metal arms.
I would have called Festool Customer Service but this happened at 5:14pm Eastern and they close for the day at 5pm!
Dr. P. Venkman
Member
Flip it over and watch the metal bar as you move the lever. It should be perfectly(ish) horizontal when in the released position, and the cam should push the right end up when engaged.
There’s a little grub screw looking thing on the e left side that I think is there to keep the left side level. Is it possible your grub screw is either too tight or too loose and your bar isn’t getting back to level?
There’s a little grub screw looking thing on the e left side that I think is there to keep the left side level. Is it possible your grub screw is either too tight or too loose and your bar isn’t getting back to level?
Dr. P. Venkman
Member
Absent that, give it a good whack in a way that won’t bend the shaft. That bar will burr the shaft over time, and maybe yours is just burred enough in its current position that it’s sticking more than feels reasonable. If that’s the case, you can easily sand off the burrs with some quick, light hand sanding.
If they’re brand new and have been in the clamped position in the package on the shelf for a year, I could see that happening.
If they’re brand new and have been in the clamped position in the package on the shelf for a year, I could see that happening.
onocoffee
Member
Well, after a day or so of waiting for Festool Customer Service to get back to me, I brought the clamps down to my local Woodcraft to see if the guys might have a solution. One of my high school friends (who's a great woodworker) happened to be there and we discussed the issue, considered the possibilities, and then utilized Emergency Procedure Number One: Banging On It.
My friend took the clamp and slammed it onto the counter with the back of the rail. It came unstuck. The other clamp took a bit more "finesse" but managed to release. When we looked at those grub screws the difference between the one that released and the other that required "finesse" was significant. I'm going to go and adjust them the same tomorrow. However, it seems that the hex size may be unusual? I tried fitting both metric and imperial allen keys and didn't really get what I felt was a secure connection.
Thanks for the help!
luvmytoolz
Member
Percussion maintenance, the universal fix-all!
Distinctive Interiors
Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2012
- Messages
- 456
I just checked mine and the grubscrew requires a T15 Torx bit to allow adjustments. The grubscrew is a really snug fit with some sort of Red wax holding it in position, but you should only need small adjustments to get the clamps working as they should.
I have a couple of sets of MFT clamping elements that have been used extensively over the years, but I can't say I've ever had the same issue as you.
Tim.
bertv
Member
I remember Sedge showing a trick for these clamps: lightly sand the edges of the bar. That can be too grippy when new and unused.
Rutabagared
Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2008
- Messages
- 302
When mine stick, I hold them vertically and give them a sharp, downward tap on the clamping face as others have stated. This ususally overcomes the "sticking" point. Usually, mine only stick when I've clamped something with a lot of force (i.e., where there is a lot of resistance at the lever when engaging the clamping mechanism.). These sticking points will shown up as divots or indentations on the metal bars. These areas will be prone to sticking/catching when you slide the clamping lever over these positions. Sedge demonstrates that you can smooth these areas out with abrasives as part of regular maintenance. I've found this works. Good luck!
Sparktrician
Member
Concur. The T15 is the correct tool.
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,174
A little sandpaper or a light kiss with a file will knock down the burrs. I have had it happen a time or two, but I have used mine daily for 6 years. I find them to be most likely to stick when they are released from holding something that is somewhat springy. Holding a solid block, just fine. Holding something warped against something solid, is when it has happened to me.
This makes sense though. They are meant to hold things to the table, not as a long-travel clamp.
This makes sense though. They are meant to hold things to the table, not as a long-travel clamp.
Vondawg
Member
Yes I was going to mention that one
Steve1
Member
I had a similar problem trying to use Bessey strap clamps.
For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to pull the strap out.
No instructions whatsoever with the package.
Finally found a Youtube video that explained the obvious.
The strap on the left, although it is beside the roll, is the fixed end.
The strap that exits on the right makes a serpentine path to the roll.
I had been pulling on the fixed end.
For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to pull the strap out.
No instructions whatsoever with the package.
Finally found a Youtube video that explained the obvious.
The strap on the left, although it is beside the roll, is the fixed end.
The strap that exits on the right makes a serpentine path to the roll.
I had been pulling on the fixed end.
Attachments
Crazyraceguy
Member
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- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,174
I have seen a whole lot of people struggle with regular Bessey K-body clamps. Apparently, it's not intuitive to pull the handle away from the bar.
onocoffee
Member
When I got my first parallel clamp, it took me awhile to figure out just how to hold the twisting handle and how to pull it in a certain way to release the jar.
For at least a little while, there was a lot of cursing and The Gnashing of The Teeth going on.
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 5,174
Yes, there definitely is a "goldilocks" position there, because you can go too far too.
You could struggle all day with those 98" units, if you don't know, how it's done.
I have literally had people question me about why I have them, rather than simple pipe clamps. I assume, because of the cost difference?
For me, there are two huge reasons, and I honestly don't know which is more important?
1) Reach. They will reach over each other, so you can clamp adjacent sides, at the same time. (both faces, of a corner)
1) The coarse adjustment and tightening handle are on the same end. The longer the clamp, the more important this becomes.
