I've owned a MFT3 and rail setup for around 4-years and greatly stopped using the rail and guide support soon after purchasing it as I just could not get accurate 90 degree cuts. Despite truing the LH side of the rail to the fixed rear angle stop fence, the subsequent cut edge of the board is always off of square. This problem is also evident when referencing off dogs rather than the rear fence. I have been so frustrated by the inaccuracy I purchased a rail square which has proved to be extremely accurate. Having some spare time between projects recently, I revisited this problem and have discovered when setting the rail to 90 degrees on the left side (as instructed) the right splinter-guard side is always out of square, hence the inaccurate 90 degree cuts. If however I reference between the rear fence or dogs and the rail splinter-guard the subsequent cuts are always 90 degrees. What Goes On .... I'm Baffled .... Some assistance would be really appreciated before I get my Chainsaw out.
MFT3 Setup Difficulties
- Thread starter CypBill
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woodferret
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It's probably easier to just have you watch Sedge's video and see if there's anything on setup where you might be differing/missing.
Notable things to check I can think of by your description is A) guide-rail on front pin is sloppy, B) tried to 'true' by any other means other than loosening the protractor's screws, C) missing deflection stop.
Notable things to check I can think of by your description is A) guide-rail on front pin is sloppy, B) tried to 'true' by any other means other than loosening the protractor's screws, C) missing deflection stop.
sancho57
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I had similar issues as you. Even after I attended the FT end users classes. It wasnt until Allen Kensley (ex festool trainer and one most knowledgeable person festool had) came over my house and showed me how he sets up his MFT for getting square cuts.
Everytime you raise or lower the guide rail you have to push the bracket hard toward the stops. The bracket will move on you even if the knob is tightened. TSO products has created a kit for the MFT brackets that will prevent it from happening. They recently released it.
Though I dont have one yet. It is on my things to buy list. Until I get it, Ill use TSOs GRS to ensure i get square cuts.
https://tsoproducts.com/workstations-components/mft-aligned-guide-rail-support-upgrade-kit/
Everytime you raise or lower the guide rail you have to push the bracket hard toward the stops. The bracket will move on you even if the knob is tightened. TSO products has created a kit for the MFT brackets that will prevent it from happening. They recently released it.
Though I dont have one yet. It is on my things to buy list. Until I get it, Ill use TSOs GRS to ensure i get square cuts.
https://tsoproducts.com/workstations-components/mft-aligned-guide-rail-support-upgrade-kit/
Haven't had an MFT for a while, but when I did, I remember that I set the front and back brackets so that I had to put gentle sideways pressure on the rail when lowering it onto the locating pin. This forced the pin, which wasn't a 100% tight fit in the rail, very slightly to one side of the track groove. (So if you just dropped the rail down, it wouldn't engage the pin, I had to push sideways)
This took out any slop and held it tightly in place, though I knew it would slowly wear a 'nick' in the rail at that spot. Worked well, didn't have any square issues and didn't have to re-calibrate.
This took out any slop and held it tightly in place, though I knew it would slowly wear a 'nick' in the rail at that spot. Worked well, didn't have any square issues and didn't have to re-calibrate.
woodferret
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They did mention a rail square worked fine though. So that kinda ruled out bent/deformed rail IMHO.
woodferret said:
Good point- but a rail square references a different spot on the rail. Could be a wobbly left edge, near the fence. So putting a square back there will be "on the bump", but the rail square up front will be "off the bump".
And a few pics would be worth a thousand replies, as is tradition.
Artthetoolman
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- Jul 14, 2014
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I am a Festool loyalist, their tools are undoubtedly the best, with the exception of the MFT. I too have been frustrated by the MFT setup, it is finicky and getting perfectly square cuts can be a challenge. I tolerated it until I knew better. Do yourself a favor and check out Dashboard . I have invested in the entire system. While it seems expensive, the time savings quickly justifies the price. Handling 4x8 sheet goods is no match for the Dashboard, while nearly impossible with the MFT. For about $330, you can buy just a guiderail bracket to replace the MFT guiderail brackets, this is an incredible upgrade to the MFT
I wrote a review on the Dashboard in FineHomebuilding:
dashboard review
The Dashboard has been one of the best investments I have ever made.
Happy and safe Building,
Art
I wrote a review on the Dashboard in FineHomebuilding:
dashboard review
The Dashboard has been one of the best investments I have ever made.
Happy and safe Building,
Art
Rutabagared
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- Jan 27, 2008
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- 298
Check that the guide rail bracket screws are not loose (the two 5mm on each bracket that controls the clamping pressure). I was struggling with this recently and discovered one on each bracket was loose. Tightening them fixed the issue. Good luck!
NiteWalkerGR
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- May 7, 2014
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- 192
A dashboard hinge is on my short list of luxury purchases I'd like to make this year. I already have a mk II parf guide to make the top and some t-track that fits the track clamps, so I can make an MFT now. I'll be using just dogs to position the rail for crosscuts; we'll see how long that goes on for.Artthetoolman said:
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