oak/Wenge spiral staircase -newpics

Jimhart

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Dec 30, 2007
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As proud as i am of this project, I humbly post it realizing that most of the project consists of things i've leaned here and on other forums.

A year ago I replaced the carpet on my staircase with oak that has a walnut inlay. My neighbor liked it so much he convinced me to tackle his spiral staircase. The 'fee' was a TS55 to enable me to handle the angled cuts.

When i built mine I didn't have any Festools. Other than preparing the stock, this was built 100% on-site with Festool tools.

We removed all the carpet, then used a sawzall to remove the nosing from each stair tread. Here's how it looked as we got started;

normal_stairs1.jpg


Each tread had a concave curve on the left side, a convex curve on the right and it was shaped like a wedge of pie.

The prep consisted of jointing, planing and glueing up 8 slabs that were then cut into 16 treads. Once glued up, we used a RS2E to sand them smooth;80, 100, 120, 150 then 180 grit. I used the OF1400 to cut a groove on each end, which was filled with a strip of Wenge.

normal_stairs2.jpg


I used the TS55 to cut each slab to rough size. if there's another tool that would have let me cut that angled cut, i'm not familiar with it.

I attached a 5/4 lip to each slab. tried to use the Domino, but the fence kept slipping. Wound up using biscuits. Thought this setup on the MFT/3 might be interesting;

normal_stairs3.jpg


I used bench dogs made by John Cady, the guy who sells the custom Domino stuff on Ebay. they're attached to a rail from 8020. Then a clamping element held the 5/4 board while i cut the biscuit slots.

this entire staircase was installed without using a ruler or tape measure. Here's a picture showing how we used a story stick and an angle gauge for each riser;

normal_stairs4.jpg


The story stick uses a bar guage from Lee Valley. I transferred the length of the stick to each riser, then used a miter saw to cut them to length.

The key to this whole project was this template;

normal_stairs5.jpg


After watching every episode of woodworks at least 10 times, it was burned in my brain to use an MDF template. This template was set on each step, then pressed against each side and locked in place. we would then mark it where it needed to be trimmed to fit. Here's a pic of the pencil line showing where the template needed to be trimmed;

normal_stairs6.jpg


We would then use a cabinetmakers rasp (as david marks would call it) or a belt sander to trim the template to the line.

Continued....

 
forgot to mention the role of the LS130. I didn't take a picture, but this sander rounded the nosing of each tread. The 18mm sanding pad fits the 5/4 inch nosing of a stair tread like you wouldn't believe. I was so taken by it that i sanded until almost 4 AM, couldn't stop.

Once the template was sanded to fit, I would  put it on a tread and outline it with pencil, then trim close tothat line with the PS300.

normal_stairs7.jpg


Then we would attach the template to the tread with double sided carpet tape.

normal_stairs8.jpg


Using the OF1400, we would then flush trim the tread to the template.

normal_stairs9.jpg


once the ends were trimmed, i would use the TS55 to trim the back edge to fit;

normal_stairs10.jpg


Once the tread has been trimmed, we taped the ends and trimmed the tape flush with a razor blade. this allowed us to caulk the line at the end of the tread, and it allowed for a clean paint line. the small tape dots on the face of the tread was for brads. I sunk a brad into each piece of tape, then we put wood filler into the nailhead. the tape made sure the filler only went into the nailhead and not the surrounding surface.

normal_stairs11.jpg


Here's a couple of shots with all the treads in place;

normal_stairs12.jpg


normal_stairs13.jpg


Here's a couple with the sides sanded and painted and the tape removed;

normal_stairs14.JPG


normal_stairs16.JPG


Now the pressure is on my friend Johnny to put 4 or 5 coats of poly on these and send me the pictures.

None of this would have been possible without the MFT/3, TS 55 and several of the other Festools used. It may have been possible.....but it wouldn't have been nearly as much fun.

Jim
 
Now THAT is a great project, and your fee, well..., it was inspinring.  ::)

I have had a plan for just such a project on my back burner for quite some time now.  I even went so far as to speak with others about how I should go about it.  Your project has answered a number of questions and provided me with ideas about how do do my stairs.

Thanks, and keep up the good, no..., great, work.
 
I do have one question about the retreading of your friends stairs...  How did, if you did, account for the change in tread height?

If the floor height on the first and second floors did not change, then the first tread is now 3/4" higher off the floor than before and the second floor landing is now 3/4" lower than before.

Thanks, again, for sharing this project.
 
Thanks for the kind words.

We were lucky that the floor at the bottom had thick tile installed with an epoxy underlayment/adhesive. If I understand the codes, the top and/or bottom stair height can vary from the rest of the stairs by up to 3/8".  With the height of the tile, we're well within that range.

If you've been thinking about doing your stairs, I'd say go for it. It was even more fun the second time, even though these spiral stairs were much harder than my straight ones.  Mine sit right inside the front door and I love all the comments from visitors.

Jim
 
I'm Jim's friend Johnny, and recipient of the beautiful spiral staircase.  Not only am I impressed by Jim's woodworking ability, but am also totally in awe of the Festool "system," and quality of the product  I think I could really get into this!  I should have a few coats of poly on the stairs in the next couple of days and will get the pics to Jim to post.  Thank you Jim!!!  < :D>
 
Really nice work, Jim.

Did you make the curved stringer? I seem to remember a thread on one. Anyway, Superfestoolrific!

Eiji
 
oh, and great attention to detail with applying the blue tape before install and the tape/nail trick.
 
Jim,
I cant believe you did that for a TS55! you should have gotten a Domino, 1400, 1010, and an RS2. At least!
 
Great work Jim, I have a friend that want me to remove his carpeted stairway, and put some oak treads on there. Its not curved, so it shouldn't be as difficult as yours. He also needs a handrail completely fabricated, which I'm not ready for that yet. I need some more experience, and he needs more money.
 
Yeah, I'm all for working for tools. I actually just trimmed out his bar in his basement. I would of done it for free, but he gave me a real nice Hercules guitar stand.
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Really nice work, Jim.

Did you make the curved stringer? I seem to remember a thread on one. Anyway, Superfestoolrific!

Eiji

Eiji,

I've seen your work and really appreciate your kind words.

I didn't make the stringers. In some ways, I think it would be easier to start from scratch than to modify the old treads. The way the old ones extend into the stringer makes it tough trim them off without messing up the stringer.

Jim
 
Robert, thanks.

The 'fee arrangement' really helped me rationalize getting the saw.

We had a lot of fun doing the project and they'll enjoy it for years.

Johnny is also really handy and his electrician skills have saved me a bunch.

Jim
 
Jim,

Thanks for posting how you made this curved stairway.  I learned a lot.
Regarding your MDF template, did you have to reshape it for each tread then use that custom template to cut the actual oak treads?

Dave R.
 
Dave,

I'm glad there were parts of the project that were new to you. I've certainly picked up some things from your posts along the way, glad I could return the favor.

The template fit very well without trimming on the left side of almost every tread. On the right side, we needed to tweak the curve more on the bottom and top step than anywhere else. The template did a great job of capturing minor differences in length.

I think the left side was more consistent because it was more freestanding, not connected to the walls of the house. On the right side, we suspected that the installers had to adjust the bottom tread to get things started, then the top to tie everything together.

Thank God most of them were very similar or I would still be there cursing at the MDF dust coming off the belt sander.

Jim
 
Jimhart said:
Thank God most of them were very similar or I would still be there cursing at the MDF dust coming off the belt sander.

Ha, ha, ha, haaa....(evil chuckle) :D  I have the perfect remedy. will post later
 
a little PC beltsander mod makes for a dustless scribing machine.  ;D

sorry for the off topic.
 
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