OF1400 Router round base

Yes, the dimensions that I measured are within .01mm of what @4nthony posted, but in this application, only 2 of them matter. The ones at the top of that diagram are all we need here. Those are the ones I was saying are off center.
They are bigger holes (6mm threads) and do not contribute to holding the original base in place.
The OF1010 has similar holes, thought they are closer together and centered.
The combo/adaptor only uses these 4 holes.
That's kind of the beauty of this, you don't have to remove any of the original tiny screws.
Great results! 😀

I checked on Shaper Hub and could not find the files.

When you have a moment, could you post the link please. Thank you!
 
Great results! 😀

I checked on Shaper Hub and could not find the files.

When you have a moment, could you post the link please. Thank you!
Sure. It will work exactly as drawn. The only thing you really need to do is adjust the depth of the counterbores, depending on the thickness of material you use. It might be a good idea to sneak up on the diameter of the bushing hole too. The fit is very important.

 
Sure. It will work exactly as drawn. The only thing you really need to do is adjust the depth of the counterbores, depending on the thickness of material you use. It might be a good idea to sneak up on the diameter of the bushing hole too. The fit is very important.

Thank you!

For the Shaper Origin, which cutter would you recommend for 3/8” acrylic?

I’m “outsourcing” this job to several buddies who’ve not yet put their Shaper Origin onto a finalized project. I wanna guide them with your direct experience on this model.
 
Thank you!

For the Shaper Origin, which cutter would you recommend for 3/8” acrylic?

I’m “outsourcing” this job to several buddies who’ve not yet put their Shaper Origin onto a finalized project. I wanna guide them with your direct experience on this model.
I used a 1/4" O flute. They seem to be the best, with acrylic. They clean out he chips better, which removes the heat too. The biggest problem with thin acrylic is snagging and cracking. Cutting thicker material, it's gumming up and sticking. The kerf of a jigsaw can actually weld itself back together.
 
Why would Festool design something in metric with dimensions like 117.79mm, 63.18mm, and 72.91mm?
Ya got me.....I don't understand it either? I somewhat understand it with the European "conversion" of American things. The sheet goods sizes come to mind here, but this is something Festool designed from scratch. Why not some simple whole millimeters? 120mm x 65mm x75mm. why not?
 
Why not some simple whole millimeters? 120mm x 65mm x75mm. why not?
Yeah, that's one of the beauties of metric. I've designed throat plate for my Inca tablesaw and now YARSB for my Bosch router, and when measuring the hardware, just rounding to the nearest mm, maybe 1/2mm, has always resulted in perfect enough fits. With Imperial, you never know if they were using 1/32" or 1/64" or even 1/100" increments when designing. Maybe Festool is trying to discourage aftermarket makers?
 
Maybe I should start a separate thread, but the thought just occurred to me that maybe I could adapt a Festool edge cutting dust collection hood to my shop-made router sub-base. I'm assuming those are available separately, at least as replacement parts (clear plastic does break). Which Festool pieces/part numbers should I be looking at that might be adaptable and work well?

For instance, there's the 492732:

Which has two bolt holes. I guess the newer one has one bolt hole and a tab, which would complicate my efforts.
 
Maybe I should start a separate thread, but the thought just occurred to me that maybe I could adapt a Festool edge cutting dust collection hood to my shop-made router sub-base. I'm assuming those are available separately, at least as replacement parts (clear plastic does break). Which Festool pieces/part numbers should I be looking at that might be adaptable and work well?

For instance, there's the 492732:

Which has two bolt holes. I guess the newer one has one bolt hole and a tab, which would complicate my efforts.
The slick way to do that, would be the one that comes with the Table extender for the OF1400. (493233)
It is larger than the one that comes with the router, and it attaches by magnets. It would give the best, of both worlds.
Then, you would have a quick way to pop on onto an OF1010 too.
Idea, unlocked. Thanks
 
The 493233 would be real slick to add to any home made router base, I keep one on my 1400. Unfortunately, the only item you need is the swivel cup and that doesn't appear to be available as a spare part. I've checked EKAT before and never found that it was offered as a separate item. Maybe a call to Festool Service would help. The complete 493233 assembly (LAS-OF 1400) is currently $122.
 

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So, these swivel cups rely on having a dust hose mounting on the top of the router's base. What's the comparison to a cup below the base with the dust hose connection built-in?

For instance:
Screenshot 2025-09-21 at 9.07.33 AM.png

That one is a Bosch branded thing, and it looks like (and reviews read) that the plastic breaks easily, probably just from the dust hose tugging. But, it does seem like it's collection the dust closer to where it's being created, as opposed to trying to suck it up through the base's opening. And those top of the base dust collection fittings interfere with deeper cuts sometimes.
 
So, these swivel cups rely on having a dust hose mounting on the top of the router's base. What's the comparison to a cup below the base with the dust hose connection built-in?

For instance:
View attachment 377993

That one is a Bosch branded thing, and it looks like (and reviews read) that the plastic breaks easily, probably just from the dust hose tugging. But, it does seem like it's collection the dust closer to where it's being created, as opposed to trying to suck it up through the base's opening. And those top of the base dust collection fittings interfere with deeper cuts sometimes.
It depends entirely on the cut type. The below-base style chip-catcher is best for edge routing, either flush-trimming or profiling. The above-base units just can't pull enough air/dust fast enough for edges. They do a good job, with mortices, grooves, etc (surface work) at least the Festool ones do. I have one, similar to your pic, for my Makita. It's better than nothing, but not great. Fixed-base routers are basically restricted to surface work. IMHO, "tipping in" is not acceptable. People do it....people get hurt, or best case, ruin a part.
 
The 493233 would be real slick to add to any home made router base, I keep one on my 1400. Unfortunately, the only item you need is the swivel cup and that doesn't appear to be available as a spare part. I've checked EKAT before and never found that it was offered as a separate item. Maybe a call to Festool Service would help. The complete 493233 assembly (LAS-OF 1400) is currently $122.
Seems to me, it was about $90, when I got mine. It sure is too bad that those are not available separately.
Yeah, I really like that idea. It just came to me, while replying to this thread. I just made that round base a few weeks ago. I could easily add that feature to it. It would be an easy Trace job, or draw it out in Studio, since it is a very simple shape. I've had a stack of 10 x 3mm magnets, in my box, for a few years.
 
Doesn’t look that hard to reproduce and 3d-print. Just sayin’…
The plastic wouldn't be, but the metal ring takes a bit more, or you make it plastic too. Then you have to put magnets in both sides.
Somebody like Send-Cut-Send could do the metal, but it would never be worth it as a one-off.
Unless you know someone with a Laser too.
 
I should have tagged @Cheese directly. He's one of the very few, who could actually use this.

Just a test, in 1/4" MDF, to prove the file.
 

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