Split Top Roubo Bench Build

[iamnothim]

I just bought a Stanley 71, not complete, as it is missing a fence, but it has the shoe, and a 1/2" spearpoint blade.  The Lee Valley blades will fit it just fine.

Had been trimming tenons with a Stanley #90 bullnose and a Veritas medium shoulder rabbet plane, but this should give a little more precision.  Watch Chris Schwartz show how to sharpen router blades using waterstones and a thin steel ruler.  My ruler is from Harbor Freight.  Rob Cosman is a fan of the ruler method of sharpening, and I saw the trick first on one of his YouTube vids.

Nice looking plane Gene!
Someone on the thread tipped me the the Veritas PM-V11 blades so I ordered a set with the cap for my No2. No5. and No.6
I've watched a lot of sharpening videos and have not gotten it down yet.  I have some decent stones and I flattened them recently.  I am using a roller jig and getting better results.  It's set for a micro bevel.  I have a Tormek system that does a good job.  I just think if I practice with stones I can do a bit better.  But that's for later.  I have too much on my plate right now.

From the video's I watched and Marc Spagnolo's use of a router plane that looks like the ticket.  I like the depth stop function.  In theory, if you know what you are doing, you should get flat mirror image symmetrical tenons.

I've wanted a LN block rabbet plane with nicker for doing this but I held off because I have a Clifton 410 shoulder plane for corners.  Once the router plane arrives I'll use it for the wide tenon faces and the Clifton for..... what else.... the shoulders.  I'll get the rabbet plane down the road.  Way, way, down the road I see a set of Japanese hand forged chisels in my future.  There is much to learn about them before one considers purchasing a set.

I'm very pleased that I completed all the mortises in the legs.  The plan is to practice making tenons that fit them.  When I have it down I will make the production rails and build the base.

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[iamnothim]

I just bought a Stanley 71, not complete, as it is missing a fence, but it has the shoe, and a 1/2" spearpoint blade.  The Lee Valley blades will fit it just fine.

Had been trimming tenons with a Stanley #90 bullnose and a Veritas medium shoulder rabbet plane, but this should give a little more precision.  Watch Chris Schwartz show how to sharpen router blades using waterstones and a thin steel ruler.  My ruler is from Harbor Freight.  Rob Cosman is a fan of the ruler method of sharpening, and I saw the trick first on one of his YouTube vids.

Gene,

Are you talking about the one with a skew blade?

Nice looking plane Gene!
Someone on the thread tipped me the the Veritas PM-V11 blades so I ordered a set with the cap for my No2. No5. and No.6
I've watched a lot of sharpening videos and have not gotten it down yet.  I have some decent stones and I flattened them recently.  I am using a roller jig and getting better results.  It's set for a micro bevel.  I have a Tormek system that does a good job.  I just think if I practice with stones I can do a bit better.  But that's for later.  I have too much on my plate right now.

From the video's I watched and Marc Spagnolo's use of a router plane that looks like the ticket.  I like the depth stop function.  In theory, if you know what you are doing, you should get flat mirror image symmetrical tenons.

I've wanted a LN block rabbet plane with nicker for doing this but I held off because I have a Clifton 410 shoulder plane for corners.  Once the router plane arrives I'll use it for the wide tenon faces and the Clifton for..... what else.... the shoulders.  I'll get the rabbet plane down the road.  Way, way, down the road I see a set of Japanese hand forged chisels in my future.  There is much to learn about them before one considers purchasing a set.

I'm very pleased that I completed all the mortises in the legs.  The plan is to practice making tenons that fit them.  When I have it down I will make the production rails and build the base.

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[Billedis]

[member=28483]iamnothim[/member] You are an animal.  Love the build.  Bill

 

[iamnothim]

I'm in a holding pattern before starting to work on the tenons.  I am waiting for the router plane to arrive.

I decided to begin the babinga deadman.  The plan calls for a large "V" grove on the bottom of the deadmans the rides on a "V" bump on the rail.  I cut some test 45's in some stock using the TS75.  I've done this before and it came out ok.  But I wasn't sure for this.

In this case I decided to make a long tenon in the bottom of the deadman and cut a groove to match on the edge of the rail.
A am pleased with the fit.  I've ordered some Delrin strips to put on the bottom of the groove so it glides.

Tomorrow I cut my non-conforming pattern in the babinga and drill some holes.

[member=27901]Billedis[/member]  woof!

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[iamnothim]

Had a thought on the deadman.

There aren't any curves anyplace else....  Maybe I scratch the detail altogether and make it a rectangle.  hmmm

 

[Iceclimber]

Rectangle!

Had a thought on the deadman.

There aren't any curves anyplace else....  Maybe I scratch the detail altogether and make it a rectangle.  hmmm

 

[Bohdan]

Won't the groove that the deadman slides in fill will rubbish?

 

[iamnothim]

Rectangle!

Yup.  Rectangle.
It will compliment the End Cap.

 

[iamnothim]

Won't the groove that the deadman slides in fill will rubbish?

I went around and around on this.  Rubbish or a protruding spline.
I went with rubbish.

 

[Tinker]

Won't the groove that the deadman slides in fill will rubbish?

I went around and around on this.  Rubbish or a protruding spline.
I went with rubbish.

How about two rails with a spacer every 12"s or so.  That way,any sawdust or other "rubbish that falls into the groove has a place to go.  You are using a thick "deadman that will ride on the two rails.
Tinker

 

[iamnothim]

How about two rails with a spacer every 12"s or so.  That way,any sawdust or other "rubbish that falls into the groove has a place to go.  You are using a thick "deadman that will ride on the two rails.
Tinker

I think it'll be fine.  That'll just become part of my vacuuming regiment.

Since it is my nature to do "something" different, I have plotted out the hole pattern to follow a Fibonacci series.
Looks good in pencil.

 

[iamnothim]

I finished drilling the holes for the holdfast in the sliding deadman's.  I used the Fibonacci series to plot the locations.  Below is an excerpt on the Fibonacci series from Paul Schürch's book "Practical Furniture Design".  It's a great book.  Paul's veneer and inlay work, IMO, is without peer.  He sells a lot of tools and teaching guides that show how to do veneer and inlay work.

If this series, that occurs in nature, holds true, the location of the holes should work for most needs.

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[Dogberryjr]

Fibonacci!  A most excellent idea.

 

[waho6o9]

Silly rabbits.  LOL

 

[iamnothim]

Fibonacci!  A most excellent idea.

[member=46611]Dogberryjr[/member]
Thanks for the affirmation!  I thought it might work.
also
Thanks [member=41244]Iceclimber[/member] for keeping the design on "The Straight and Narrow"

 

[iamnothim]

Silly rabbits.  LOL

Bogus!

 

[waho6o9]

From Wikipedia:
Outside of India, the Fibonacci sequence first appears in the book Liber Abaci (1202) by Leonardo of Pisa, known as Fibonacci.[5] Fibonacci considers the growth of an idealized (biologically unrealistic) rabbit population, assuming that: a newly born pair of rabbits, one male, one female, are put in a field; rabbits are able to mate at the age of one month so that at the end of its second month a female can produce another pair of rabbits; rabbits never die and a mating pair always produces one new pair (one male, one female) every month from the second month on. The puzzle that Fibonacci posed was: how many pairs will there be in one year?

    At the end of the first month, they mate, but there is still only 1 pair.
    At the end of the second month the female produces a new pair, so now there are 2 pairs of rabbits in the field.
    At the end of the third month, the original female produces a second pair, making 3 pairs in all in the field.
    At the end of the fourth month, the original female has produced yet another new pair, the female born two months ago produces her first pair also, making 5 pairs.

At the end of the nth month, the number of pairs of rabbits is equal to the number of new pairs (which is the number of pairs in month n − 2) plus the number of pairs alive last month (n − 1). This is the nth Fibonacci number

 

[iamnothim]

I guess I stand corrected "Bogus Not"

Don't rabbit produce more that two at birth?

 

[waho6o9]

I'm not sure about rabbits' births I just found it fascinating that

Fibonacci watched the rabbits and came up with a formula that's

found in nature.

Good stuff.

[big grin]

 

[iamnothim]

Yes, but, did he cook the rabbit with some nice Gnocchi ?

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