Today was a good day...

Lucky you were planning on painting anyways, otherwise that would have been a painful mistake after such beautiful work. Cant wait to see the final result!
 
Amalix said:
Lucky you were planning on painting anyways, otherwise that would have been a painful mistake after such beautiful work. Cant wait to see the final result!
Thanks for the nice words!

Here are a few doors with the first couple layers of paint. It is 2 coats of the BIN and they will get flipped in about an hour for the 2 coats on the other side.

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Cheers. Bryan.
 
My fix for boring the wrong side of the door painted once.

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After the second coat, not to be seen.

Great paint and all 6 sides were covered with 2 coats in under 2 hours. A few more doors to prime and then the topcoat(s).

Cheers. Bryan.
 
BigCountry73 said:
Your work looks amazing! Are you spraying the doors? If so, what equipment are you using?

Thanks,

Keith

Hey Keith.

Thanks for the nice words. I am not spraying (yet).

So far it is all done with a roller and sander. I am debating spraying the topcoat as I don't really have a place to do it. I am a firm believer in buying really good paint and kit to support it. Almost all Sherwin Williams and BIN.

The paint is the first thing people see... No need to go cheap there. I also tried not to use poplar (no offense to anyone) but soft maple is a solid wood and mills/cuts great.

I am trying to wrap things up in the coming weeks and will keep updating this thread.

Cheers. Bryan.

 
Why the plastic inserts for the screws on the hinges on the doors? I thought those were just driven into the wood..?
 
copcarcollector said:
Why the plastic inserts for the screws on the hinges on the doors? I thought those were just driven into the wood..?

You can drill just the big hinge hole and tap out the smaller ones with a 1 mm bit and it works fine but I bought the Eco-Drill and it does 8mm for the plastic barrels. Honestly, I prefer it now. Very easy and solid. I think it is very common in the EU to do the barrels as a lot of the doors are melamine and other "chipboard" material which doesn't hold a screw all that well.

Another benefit is that the barrels self center in the 8 mm hole and the screws self center in it. Sometimes I skip using a straight bar to ensure the hinges are set straight, and if I go back and check later, they are all aligned correctly!

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Are you using SW water base Pro Classic? Thats the only thing I feel you can get a good look out of brush & rolling. PPG has a produst caller Break Through (dries in 15 min on light coats but industrial grade) I use that on alot of customers cabinet doors lets me finish a project in a day.
 
Thanks that is much clearer now! I checked the specs on the Eco Drill as well as other brands (CMT, Somerfields) and they all seem to be the same, I was under the (false) impression that the screw holes these made were much smaller.

So second question, do the hinges typically come with the plastic inserts, or do you just get those separately? THANKS.

bkharman said:
copcarcollector said:
Why the plastic inserts for the screws on the hinges on the doors? I thought those were just driven into the wood..?

You can drill just the big hinge hole and tap out the smaller ones with a 1 mm bit and it works fine but I bought the Eco-Drill and it does 8mm for the plastic barrels. Honestly, I prefer it now. Very easy and solid. I think it is very common in the EU to do the barrels as a lot of the doors are melamine and other "chipboard" material which doesn't hold a screw all that well.

Another benefit is that the barrels self center in the 8 mm hole and the screws self center in it. Sometimes I skip using a straight bar to ensure the hinges are set straight, and if I go back and check later, they are all aligned correctly!

Cheers. Bryan.
 
copcarcollector said:
Thanks that is much clearer now! I checked the specs on the Eco Drill as well as other brands (CMT, Somerfields) and they all seem to be the same, I was under the (false) impression that the screw holes these made were much smaller.

So second question, do the hinges typically come with the plastic inserts, or do you just get those separately? THANKS.

They usually don't come with the barrels and screws. I think I ordered them each in 100 count for less than $10.00.  I think I went to cabinetparts.com

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Randel said:
Are you using SW water base Pro Classic? Thats the only thing I feel you can get a good look out of brush & rolling. PPG has a produst caller Break Through (dries in 15 min on light coats but industrial grade) I use that on alot of customers cabinet doors lets me finish a project in a day.

Yep. I learned about water based PC years ago. Made my life a lot better!  I usually roll/brush it on and use Purdy XL Dales and sherwin Williams mohair rollers. Lays everything down very nicely.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
All doors are coated 6s with primer. Still debating if I want to shoot SW PC through my Earlex but will evaluate as I get to other things.

Cheers. Bryan.
 
Thanks for the comments all!

I have a question, I am doing slabs for the drawer fronts, and used maple frames with MDF panels for the doors and don't think I want to pay for maple for the slabs.

I can use poplar or pine as well but would I be better suited with plywood caped with hardwood?  I know that would be more work and am leaning towards just using poplar but thought I would toss pine in the mix.

Any opinions?

Cheers. Bryan.
 
I have been swamped at work lately so I haven't had a chance to update here for a while. Last four doors are done and in the "glue rack". After they set, same treatment... Sand, cut hinge holes and prime.

I had started the coats on the face frames and panels but need to button that up as well.

Cheers. Bryan.

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