BF/MFT Build
- Thread starter AtomicRyan
- Start date
[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] Thanks so much for the reply. I think I have this pretty much locked down on how to build it now.
If i'm correct, the total height would be 33.5" on yours then?
3/4" MDF - 3/4"
80mm Top Support - 3 1/8"
"Outside Pillars" - 25 3/4"
Plate - 3/4"
Castors - 3 1/8"
If anyone was interested I could write down the cuts needed for this build once Ryan replies with the height total. If in Canada (Toronto Area) I have also sourced a supplier for 80/20 new. The total for my 80/20 new is $939.26 CAD plus tax. This doesn't include any fasteners or the drill jig.
- Shomik
If i'm correct, the total height would be 33.5" on yours then?
3/4" MDF - 3/4"
80mm Top Support - 3 1/8"
"Outside Pillars" - 25 3/4"
Plate - 3/4"
Castors - 3 1/8"
If anyone was interested I could write down the cuts needed for this build once Ryan replies with the height total. If in Canada (Toronto Area) I have also sourced a supplier for 80/20 new. The total for my 80/20 new is $939.26 CAD plus tax. This doesn't include any fasteners or the drill jig.
- Shomik
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sbiswas said:
I just measured mine... and it's up on the feet at 35 9/16" - same height as a stock MFT... There's some adjustability there obviously.
[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member]
Hmm. I wonder if the "outside pillar" dimension was actually the inside pillar (between the systainers which is 40mm less). The outside pillars aren't 27.25" high are they? I am not sure how I am almost 2" off. [eek]
Hmm. I wonder if the "outside pillar" dimension was actually the inside pillar (between the systainers which is 40mm less). The outside pillars aren't 27.25" high are they? I am not sure how I am almost 2" off. [eek]
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sbiswas said:
I'll be out there tomorrow... I'll send pics.
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odessaboots
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[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] Amazing videos and editing, truly entertaining and your narrating voice is a weird kind of soothing.
I am working on a folding MFT build using similar extrusions to your BF/MFT, so your posts have been super helpful.
I just watched your video about the cabinet/desk build too, really fun to watch. I wanted to mention a couple of things that might be too late but might be helpful for a future build:
Baltic Birch can be ordered by your local plywood shop in sheets up to 10x5. It might be a special order, but my local shop stocks it. Worth checking out. But...
For something as large as your desk top that wants to be strong and flat forever, you might have looked into honeycomb aluminum, no? I'm an architect by trade, and for most of my projects, if anything is over 9' or so, it gets a honeycomb core. This especially applies to doors, but I have used it on desks as well. Your build is different because you wanted the ply edges exposed (a look I really like, because its honest to the plywood), but normally you use the honeycomb with solid wood rails, so it works out well. Its like a torsion box on steroids.
Lastly, check out Docking Drawers (www.dockingdrawer.com). They make some sweet power strips integrated into your drawers, with usb-a or usb-c charging. Its a cool setup for offices and shops.
Keep up the amazing work!
For power management,
I am working on a folding MFT build using similar extrusions to your BF/MFT, so your posts have been super helpful.
I just watched your video about the cabinet/desk build too, really fun to watch. I wanted to mention a couple of things that might be too late but might be helpful for a future build:
Baltic Birch can be ordered by your local plywood shop in sheets up to 10x5. It might be a special order, but my local shop stocks it. Worth checking out. But...
For something as large as your desk top that wants to be strong and flat forever, you might have looked into honeycomb aluminum, no? I'm an architect by trade, and for most of my projects, if anything is over 9' or so, it gets a honeycomb core. This especially applies to doors, but I have used it on desks as well. Your build is different because you wanted the ply edges exposed (a look I really like, because its honest to the plywood), but normally you use the honeycomb with solid wood rails, so it works out well. Its like a torsion box on steroids.
Lastly, check out Docking Drawers (www.dockingdrawer.com). They make some sweet power strips integrated into your drawers, with usb-a or usb-c charging. Its a cool setup for offices and shops.
Keep up the amazing work!
For power management,
[member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member] Thank you for sharing your builds. Your videos are every bit as good or better than your builds. I really appreciate your style and down to earth approach. And I especially appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience in going through the process.
I have been wrestling with a design for a larger MFT table and it wasn't until I saw your 4-part series and [member=67145]Dusty.Tools[/member] design on ToolGuyd.com that it finally came completely together for me. In reviewing your build I do have a couple of questions with regard to design on which I would like to hear your thoughts.
The first is with regard to table height. I am not quite as tall as you as I am 6’1" but I have found that I prefer 38″ kitchen countertops over 36″ tops for a working height and I am considering building my workshop cabinets to a 37 1/2" to 38″ height as a result. The only thing that causes me to pause on that is that your builds are ~2″ shorter and you are 2" inches taller. Do you have any advice or thoughts on that?
I was also wondering about your top. Before I saw your video and Ben's article, I was considering building mine using either a torsion box top or a modified Paulk to ensure the top was adequately supported and would remain dead flat. I like the clean look and below-the-top access of your design much better but I was curious if you have encountered any issues with your top sagging?
During your search for aluminum extrusion and associated design service, did you consider Misumi USA? At first glance, they seem like a very good source and I have heard great things about their customer service?
I have been wrestling with a design for a larger MFT table and it wasn't until I saw your 4-part series and [member=67145]Dusty.Tools[/member] design on ToolGuyd.com that it finally came completely together for me. In reviewing your build I do have a couple of questions with regard to design on which I would like to hear your thoughts.
The first is with regard to table height. I am not quite as tall as you as I am 6’1" but I have found that I prefer 38″ kitchen countertops over 36″ tops for a working height and I am considering building my workshop cabinets to a 37 1/2" to 38″ height as a result. The only thing that causes me to pause on that is that your builds are ~2″ shorter and you are 2" inches taller. Do you have any advice or thoughts on that?
I was also wondering about your top. Before I saw your video and Ben's article, I was considering building mine using either a torsion box top or a modified Paulk to ensure the top was adequately supported and would remain dead flat. I like the clean look and below-the-top access of your design much better but I was curious if you have encountered any issues with your top sagging?
During your search for aluminum extrusion and associated design service, did you consider Misumi USA? At first glance, they seem like a very good source and I have heard great things about their customer service?
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Thanks man. I appreciate that!
Answers:
1. I agree with you - 38" is a more comfortable height for most tasks. However, the plan has always been for this thing to double as an outfeed table for my table saw eventually. As such, I was regulated a bit to make the bench adjustable from stock MFT height to my table saw height via the adjustable feet.
2. I have zero sag. My bench is dead flat. I think this is due to the cross members I used... If you think about it, they sort of make the top a torsion box.
Answers:
1. I agree with you - 38" is a more comfortable height for most tasks. However, the plan has always been for this thing to double as an outfeed table for my table saw eventually. As such, I was regulated a bit to make the bench adjustable from stock MFT height to my table saw height via the adjustable feet.
2. I have zero sag. My bench is dead flat. I think this is due to the cross members I used... If you think about it, they sort of make the top a torsion box.
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kmickey said:
I do a lot of web development and as such, have been a user of the stream deck for years... I don't really remember what life is like without one? I mean, I use it for sooo many things.
As for the display above my station, that's a nerd project I did a while back. I wanted a display that ran Dakboard (http://dakboard.com) from a Raspberry Pi, but could also double as a TV and triple as a third monitor when I needed it. I really wanted a Samsung Frame TV, but couldn't afford it... So, I bought a Samsung Q60 TV off craigslist, removed all the components from the case, and sort of built my own Frame and case. The end result looks pretty good... and the functionality is great.
***
I've been doing a lot of TV projects during Covid for some reason:
AtomicRyan said:
Thank you for replying.
I initially thought about doing the same as you but my table saw is even lower than yours at 34 1/4" and I can't see myself being comfortable working at that height for long periods. I am also not constrained by existing cabinet height, so I will plan for 38". That will also give me a little more room between the top and the cabinets.
Yeah, you are right on the top... when I think about it... it is very much like a torsion box and knowing that you have no sag is just further confirmation that it won't be an issue.
btw, did you have any luck finding someone to help create your plans in a CAD program?
AtomicRyan said:
Very cool. I’ve never heard of DAKboard, but I see one in my future.
On the topic of making things easier, this is a sketchup/any CAD program gamechanger. I’ve got the SpaceMouse compact since I don’t do enough to justify all the buttons. But it does make flying around the model 100x easier than a keyboard/mouse combo.
https://www.3dconnexion.com/products/spacemouse.html
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I've sent countless emails to 80/20 asking them to develop a "kit" of the parts used to make ordering easier. They don't seem interested as they haven't even bothered to reply. Which is weird, because I get asked no less than four or five times a week. I think they could sell quite a few of these if they'd just put a simple line item package together to make it all easier to order.
I'm actually getting ready to build some base cabinet work bench type things and might use someone other than 80/20 this time in hopes of getting a little better post-purchase support.
I'm actually getting ready to build some base cabinet work bench type things and might use someone other than 80/20 this time in hopes of getting a little better post-purchase support.
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kmickey said:
I don't do a ton of CAD stuff, because I'm not very good at it... but those are SUPER rad.
Hey [member=63929]AtomicRyan[/member], I am finally ready to build this thing but I need to order the drawer pulls. Is there any way that you would be able to email me or post the order you had with Orange Aluminum?
Getting excited to get this into my shop finally. Not so excited for the Poly Glue...
Getting excited to get this into my shop finally. Not so excited for the Poly Glue...
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I’m pretty certain he used the same ones I used:sbiswas said:
https://www.orangealuminum.com/angle-bulb-pull-oa5088.html
A useful tip - they will cut 8ft pieces to fit a box for free shipping (over $100). I had them cut at 76” so I could cut them into 25” or 51.5” lengths for my drawers.
They normally charge for cutting, but will give you one cut to make them fit.
Ben
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Yep. Those are the ones I used. I might still have the invoice. Shoot me an email and I’ll see if I can find it.
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